Complete rack and pannier carriers for sale. No boxes £100 ono

Assuming you had to?


Mine's getting a bit long in the tooth now, just had its 72k service, and I've been thinking about getting something newer.
Problem is, there's nothing I can think of that dos everything as well as an FZS600.
Looking at the stats of new-ish bikes, and there's hardly anything that comes close to the combination of power, comfort and fuel economy. And I like the speed of the FZS600, yet as its my main transport fuel economy and comfort have to be factors.
The 600 officially has 94bhp and does about 55mpg. Now let's say mine kicks out about 80bhp due to its age, and I'm getting a real-world 55mpg (up to 68 with the 50mph speed limit on the M6 at the moment).
Thing is, everything over 90bhp only does about 40-45mpg, and anything that gives over 50mpg only has 75-odd bhp.


So, can anyone think of a decent replacement? Or did Yamaha get it spot on 20 years ago? 

Looking for some guidance on removing the Compression Damping adjuster assembly from the bottom of the forks. I’m planning on replacing fork seals, and getting the outer fork tubes painted while I’m at it (they’re looking rather shabby).
The Haynes manual gives me all the info on fork disassembly, (a procedure I’ve done before on other forks), but no insight into removing the adjuster – only has details on the actual adjustment itself. I expect that its not necessary to remove it for changing seals, etc. but I would prefer to take it out for the tube painting, rather than taping it up.
Is it just a question of undoing the main body (looks like a 19mm spanner) ? Whats behind it ?
Any info would help ! Thanks !

Attached Files

  20180510_124605.jpg (Size: 47.1 KB / Downloads: 85)

ok this has probably been done to death and reading the post have given me things to check. However after a lay up the bike started to run lumpy. So here is what I did, plug change, carbs balanced, jets cleaned.leads trimmed. All the issues revolve around Np. 4 carb. pipe is cooler on that one. Is there anything else I can check or have missed. Starting to wind me up. The problem is around the lower rev range and it is like the bike is firing on 3 cylinders.

I've checked the Haynes manual, but it only talks about the boxeye sidelight 


1.  Do you have to remove the fairing infill panels to access these bulbs, or is there another way?

2. What bulbs are they?

TIA

G'mornin' chathpth!

After my recent worries about my Fazer and whether it was the right bike, if the handlebars were wrong for me, etc etc, I had a ride down to Stamford and back t'other day (with Mrs on the back for 1st time since about 2 years when we got knocked off it - YUSSS!) and it was the best ride I've had in months.

Apart from two things. 1 - I dropped my £320 designer varifocals somehwre along the way  :'(

2 - the right bar was vibrating so badly, my arm was almost completely numb before we'd got half way (it's about 38 miles).

If it weren't for the numbness, I'd have been well chuffed. I've had a read of old posts here and on other biking sites, but nothing really stands out that I can do myself to try and get it at least improved, if not sorted. I have a roll of thin, sheet lead that I could feed into the end(s) of the bar, and I could look at heavier bar ends as the ones I'm using are very light. I'm not convinced either of those will do it, though.
The vibes are very subtle - I don't actually notice them unless I look in the mirrors - left = clear, right = fuzzytown.

Thing is, I have a tube cutter on the way, as I was planning to take an inch or so off the ends of the bars to try and make them more comfy (I've had issues with pain in my hands, which was why all the bar modding palaver started). Now I'm worried that making them shorter will worsen the vibes. I mean, I can't exactly stick the inch back on if it does, can I? And I'm not well off enough to keep buying replacement bits.

So what d'ya fink? Shorter = vibier or worth a shot?

Ta.

Bars are 758

NB: A good point I should have made - I didn't have these vibes before my winter lay-up and both I and my mechanic have adjusted them (in position only) since.

KitI have just sold my FZ8 so I need to sale my Top Case fitting kit.  This Shad kit Is ideal if you do not want to drill extra holes on your bike.  This kit is fitted by removing pillion seat which can be replaced if you want to carry a pillion passenger.  I can email you photos of it fitted on my bike. I'll post it for all Inc price of £75
I will try and upload photos later. SOLD!

Attached Files

  2A92D6F9-60CF-4E6D-BB55-038DAF1F1031.jpeg (Size: 113.64 KB / Downloads: 26)

broken caliper bleed nipple  any suggestions

Hey guys and gals,


I'm having a slight issue with my carbs. The bike has been stood for a while and I dropped the carbs out to do a cable repkreplace. I noticed when I fitted everything and popped them back the throttle won't turn. I have managed to figure out that it's the far left carb (if you are sat on the bike) seems to be stuck solid as I can see the others trying to open. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this to happen?


Also on another note .The renthal 758 bars, are they worth the money and how bright is the anodised yellow?


Cheers


Mat

As per title, looking to replace all 4 bolts in the radiator side covers ( number 46 on this fowlers diagram) min are currently all different ?
Anyone know the size and length?

I may sound stupid here but I have no idea how to work it out using the current bolt??

Attached Files

  13806005091bae6ec6bb0bc732d283b1.png (Size: 28.85 KB / Downloads: 11)