I want to fit a single headlight and the ignition switch is in my way so I have taken it off. I'm also going to zap off the aluminium circle and bits that I don't need with my angle grinder.
I need to wire up a new switch that will incorporate the starter as well, so I can throw the right hand switch gear in the bin.
Anyone got any advice on that?
I also am fitting renthal 789's to the bike which I am guessing will need longer throttle cables and clutch cables too? I think I can buy a unbiversal kit and make my own carn't I? Putting a few wire extensions into the left hand switch gear should be no problem if needed.
Single headlight should hopefully be easy to wire up. Do I just forget about the other headlight feed and leave it blank on the bike?
The origonal speedo is huge and I want to replace it with a 48mm cable driven one I have. So I have got a thundercat speedo drive but that has different internals, how can I marry the fazer internals with the Thundercat internals? Do I just cut off what I want and use my soldering iron to melt them together? Or if I buy a lot of fizzy drinks would the plastic from the bottle tops be about right and I could just melt that into the thundercat speedo and shape it so it fits into the holes?
Yes I know that I have lost my steering lock, so I am going to weld a couple of tabs to the bottom yolk and the frame so I can put a padlock through it when I am away from the bike. Or is there a better solution?
My nearside indicators flash very fast now and again but not all the time they are not led bulbs. And the offside are fine any ideas would be great as I've got mot soon.
Fazer FZS600 Boxeye for sale, in good condition, powerful, economical, reliable, couldnt ask for more from a bike. Long MOT till Mar 2019. Genuine reason for sale.
Pretty much standard apart from the following mods
Twin headlight conversion (both headlights come on when on dipped)
14,600 miles, 5000 of those in the last year. Never missed a beat.
Rear hugger
Front fender extender
Clear indicator lenses
Yamaha Engine Bars
Oxford Heated grips, properly fitted to switched live on the fuse box. Switch on fairing infill.
Original toolkit present.
Givi "Simply" 45L Monolock Top Box with 340F Mount (stronger than monokey)
Has unfortunately been dropped, on both sides, so a few scuffs and scratches, deep scratches to the stator cover but available new for £20 on Ebay. Theres also a crack in the fairing below the off side indicator stem (see picture)
MOT advisory.. new tyres required before next MOT.
Chain has some exterior salt corrosion
The bike has been ridden through the winter so expect normal minor corrosion to hardware, front of engine block.
The dust seals on the shocks could do with replacing.
I will include the Haynes manual.
I'm in Twickenham, you can view weekends as I'm working away.
I can supply the registration for history check by request
During my recent cam chain replacement I thought it would be a good idea to check the valve timing. I don't really have a question about this I just wanted to get a bit of discussion going on what everybody else's valve timings are and if anybody has fitted, or considers it worth fitting, new shims to our bikes.
At 50 000km my bike isn't quite ready for the scrap heap but it's certainly no spring chicken (2000 model). Nevertheless in the 3 years I've had it, it has become my pride and joy and I would never sell it, I would only ever get around a grand for it and its worth far more to me and doesn't take up much room.
As you all know the FZS600s valves get tighter as the engine wears. The spec for intakes is 0.11-0.20mm, almost all mine are at 0.11mm (even lying to myself a bit on a couple of those) and one of my intakes on piston 4 is a solid 0.10. My exhausts aren't so bad: spec being 0.21-0.30 and pistons 2 and 3 both having all valves on 0.24 whilst 1 and 4 sit at 0.22.
I was prompted to post this as today I finally found some time away from the demands of fatherhood to balance the carbs following the cam chain replacement. 1 + 2 are sweet as a nut but 3 and 4 are a little harder to coax into balance and I thought the valve timing must be the reason. Tbh though the bike runs great for what I want it to do, I'm never going to take it on a track I just dream of taking it on a long trip. I look for reliability over performance. The hurricane rather than the spitfire. I ride with my brother mostly and he has a 2007 bandit which splutters and coughs like an aging smoker.
It says at the bottom of that page they do a looks like they do a 110/70 - 17 M/C 54H TL, which would be great.
However, it looks like an ADV version? And it doesn't have the normal speed rating, what do you guys reckon, would it be different profile or unsafe to use?
Three of us had 5 nights there last week with four days out on the bikes - the bikes, including a Boxeye Fazer were well prepped (and all on Michelins).
The roads out in the hills and mountains are amazing with stunning scenery – smooth, grippy, no potholes, no speed cameras, no Police (ahem, other than a minor run in with the Guardia Civil), sun, blue skies, no rain and bends…..lots and lots of bends – tight 270° blind hairpins to ton plus sweepers.
It was 25-28°C every day – October through winter to May is the best time, June to September would be too hot (high 30’s). Even in January it’s low 20’s so perfect for being on a bike.
Breakfast and evening meal with beer and wine included with a pool to cool off in after a long day.
Carl (from Sheffield) and Dessi were great hosts and provided us with some fab food and made us feel at home.
For us it was cheap flights (£44rtn) with Ryanair out of East Mids to Valencia, hire car (£31 or Carl can pick you up) and about an hours drive to Gata de Gorgos – Alicante is about the same.
Carl’s villa location is very quiet and only 5-10 minutes from those amazing roads.
There’s no limit on miles covered, just put fuel in and Carl will guide you on roads he’s ridden 50+ times and he’ll record your knee down efforts.
Couldn’t fault the overall value - looking to go back in November for the last MotoGP of the season using the bikes to get to the circuit.
And no, I’m not on commission, I just think what Carl did for us is worthy of a mention – we had a fantastic, memorable time.
I've reassembled the rear wheel and noticed the sprocket is wobbling which is causing the chain to judder. All the bearings are new as is the sprocket. I've checked and the sprocket is flat. I've noticed that the sprocket carrier wobbles slightly on the axle so I stripped everything back down and the collars wobble slightly on the axle. So the question is, is the play on the collars normal or does this suggest that the axle is worn or the collars or both? The bike has only done 17,000 miles but has been stood for a couple of years. The cush rubbers seem in good condition and I don't believe they would take up the play if I replaced them but I could be wrong. Any thoughts?
Just been sent the key tag from the bikes (05 FZS 1000) previous owner. Code prefix is F and five digits! I thought all of these keys had the prefix A and four digits? I think he has sent me the code tag from another bike or could this be correct? Does anyone have a Gen 1 tag with a prefix of F and five digits? No point in ordering a useless key!
