When I lock my bike, I put the chain through the back wheel, but also through the pannier rack because it keeps it off the ground and also makes it a little more difficult for anyone to nick by freezing it and using a sledgehammer.
The only problem is that (because Mr Givi uses rather crap paint and metal on his pannier racks), the paint has got scraped off and the metal is is rusting.
So can anyone suggest a good hard-wearing paint I can use to keep it from getting rusty again?
I've looked at Hammerite, but are there any alternatives?

Just watching Tai  Woffinden trying to become triple world speedway champion,won his first heat! needs another 9 points to do it,I really love speedway. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup

Why is it when ever there's a programme or article in the press it's about the Uk waste/litter that finish's up in the seas, and for the record I think it no plastic should be in the sea's it should be recycled or if it can't be, not used at all. Why is it though these programmes/articles fail to show/blame the countries that's beaches/ river banks are covered knee deep in waste of all kind, especially plastic waste and try to lay the guilt trip on us. There's 2 of us in our house hold and we fill 2 large recycling bins for every 2 weeks for collection. Most of the people on the estate I live on also put out 1 or 2 full bins for every fortnight collection and a green waste bin. We had to ask for a second recycling bin so don't know how families manage with one, because it's not common knowledge you can ask for a second recycling bin. I get annoyed by the way these eco warriors always blame an easy target who for the main are trying there best to recycle, and don't lay the blame where it belongs and most of it does not belong on the shoulders of the UK population.

Most large items sold, rest of bits now on ebay.


Having a garage clearout of parts. All good condition and Yamaha parts are genuine originals - photos available. PM for details.


FZS1000 OEM Front Left indicator 
FZS1000 OEM Front Right indicator
FZS1000 OEM Rear Left indicator 
FZS1000 OEM Rear Right indicator
FZS1000 OEM Front Brake lever   
FZS1000 OEM Clutch lever         
FZS1000 OEM Handlebars - SOLD         
FZS1000 OEM Screen - SOLD
FZS1000 Carbon Can Co stainless steel oval exhaust           
   
FZS600 OEM Front Left indicator 
FZS600 OEM Front Right indicator 
FZS600 OEM Rear Right indicator 
FZS600 (boxeye NOT foxeye) OEM Screen - SOLD


Carbtune II 4 column carb balancing tool - SOLD

Wingrack2 arms with indicators - vgc (no bike specific fitting kit but will throw in well used monokey base plate which I've been using on another rack). - SOLD

Pair Givi E41 Panniers in Yamaha blue - vgc. Great panniers because they have a combination lock as well as key entry. - SOLD

Just thought I'd share my experience with this issue especially as so far it has gone in my favour.


Bought some forks with completely seized adjusters and made the usual mistake of trying to force them with loose fitting flat head and obviously sheared off a bit of brass so left it at that and got some pen fluid on it over night. Next day still nothing and it was clear if I continued I'd just strip the brass.


Next step it getting the biggest screw driver available and using a rotary tool with a sanding attachment file the flat head down so it's a really tight fit with no movement at all. Once that's sorted and with the forks off the bike, use a quality 19mm spanner to unscrew the whole adjuster mechanism and give it a good clean with a wire brush then soak it in penetrating fluid over night.


Next day after removing the rubber o ring blowtorch the top/brass bit with a kitchen blowtorch, not a powerful plumbing one as I don't believe it needs to get red hot and perhaps could be damaged by it. Once it's smoking for 30-60 seconds drop it back into the pen fluid which is probably best done outside and in a metal container for obvious reasons, I used a food tin.


Once cooled you should get a bit of movement with the modded screw driver, if not repeat the heating and cooling in pen fluid. After a bit of gentle wiggling it should free up. It will likely sound like shit with grinding or squeaking noises and is unlikely to have any noticeable clicks.


Wrap it in a bit cloth and carefully clamp it with mole grips or a vice but be very careful not to damage the threads and use the old fire by friction method of spinning a stick back and forth very quickly with the screwdriver, just kept at it multiple times throughout the day applying wd40 regularly until it feels nice and smooth and the indicator clicks can be felt and heard.




A word of caution - Be careful not to wind the adjuster in past it's designed stopping point while turning clockwise. It seems the brass cone at the back of the mechanism which protrudes through the steel hole and blocks off the oil flow can be deformed by over tightening which causes the adjuster to have more than the stated 21 clicks as some of the cones end up protruding further.


So far out of the four adjusters I've freed up the clicks range from 24-38. The standard setting for the forks is 6 clicks out from being turn in all the way clockwise but if one of your adjusters has 21 clicks and the other 38 then 6 clicks out will not give the same results. I've noticed the all the adjusters looked the same when wound all the way out, anti-clockwise so if this happens id recommend counting your clicks in, clockwise as opposed to out, anti-clockwise making the standard setting 15 clicks clockwise from the fully turned out (anti-clockwise) position.


This has worked on all four adjusters of my original forks and the additional purchased forks which were all seized solid so I'd say it's a good and safe method. Hope this helps someone at some point because it's a real bitch and bloody expensive if it doesn't go right!

Just to let you all know that this Friday, 5th October, is the last bike night of 2018 at the Steel Horse Cafe, between Usk and Abergavenny.


http://www.steelhorsecafe.co.uk/


Weather forecast looks favourable and there's usually a good turn out.


See you all there 

Foccers, currently with MCE, but feel its a bit excessive at around 250 quid, dont renew till march i will be looking to move then, you get no reward for loyalty seems to be general concenous, welcome any advice on who to try next, i dont spend hours searching just looking to save as much as possible = more fuel :lol

Anyone ride one?


Am very surprised how cheap complete bikes sell for new. Ok so there's no expensive derailleur, plus a much simpler drive system, no or just 1 brake, however there can't be alot of value placed on the frames either?


Would like some guidance please on what to look for?
Just a bike for training through the winter would be nice, plus these could be an interesting option.


A work colleague (cycling fanatic) when i asked about these did say you are cheating if you go for a flip-flop hub, as that's free wheeling - and not a "true" fixie!  :lol  :rolleyes

so, with last years plum wine supplies dwindling, we've gone all out this year.
Last tally. About 35 gallons of plum, 5 gallons of damson, two litres of damson gin and 10 litres of sloe gin.
I wonder if I've done enough  :rolleyes

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