Long shot but after a set of discs from 600 please. I‘ve cross referred them and believe they will fit my newly acquired XJR400 ?



Thanks in advance

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Does anyone have a spare set of front indicators kicking around they no longer need?
Thanks muchly 

Part No 5LV 271110000. Most of the S/H ones look crap!

WARNING: DO NOT TOUCH YOUR DISCS WITHOUT CHECKING HOW HOT THEY ARE FIRST! THEY CAN GET HOT ENOUGH TO GIVE BAD BURNS!!!


(Yep, learned that one the hard way, many years ago)

I just finished cleaning up my front calipers - a job I'd done because after I replaced my tyres I noticed that the right-hand disc was getting hot and the left-hand disc wasn't.


I'm pretty happy that the brakes are in good condition but...


If I lift the front and spin the front wheel, giving it a good heft to spin it, it rotates just one full rotation. And I can hear a bit of rubbing.


Without that calipers fitted it does many rotations and is silent so I'm happy with the bearings.


On a good-distance run, finishing with some slow riding through town, when I stop the front discs are a similar temperature - warm to the touch but no where near hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold on to. On a faster run they do get hotter but still not so hot that I can't hold my fingers against them.


But I'm surprised that there is so much drag. Is that normal?


At the end of the day, it's the temperature of the discs that are the indicator if there's too much drag but I would expect the front to be a bit free-er.


Also, my rear disc gets hotter than the front discs. That's weird too, isn't it? I just put HH sintered pads in but that wouldn't explain the rear getting hotter than the front, surely??

I have seen it mentioned on here that the 143 bhp that Yamaha states for a standard Gen 1 power output is bollocks! If so what would you expect a totally standard low mileage machine to produce..  I am a 55 year old git and ex 2-stroke nut to my shame  :o , more than happy (ecstatic) with the bike,  owned  one year, cannot understand why I never bought one donkeys years ago.  P.S. There are less than 200 employees where  I work and no less than four Gen 1 1000 owners, including me, and a 600 Boxeye owner.  All of the Gen 1 owners have no intention of parting with them!

Got a box eye headlight unit sat in the garage if anyone can make use of it. 
Would be ideal for a HID conversion and retaining your original headlight unit also.
How does £55 posted sound?

I have a 2001 bike with a phillips lumiled H4 bulb fitted which is fantastic, I decided to buy a high power H1 led for the main beam which arrived today but sadly the round end wont go through the small apeture made for a normal H1 bulb...... bugger.
it looks a bit shit with a crap halogen h1 and a superbright H4 led. i ride in the dark so light is important.

Now i'm definately converted to LED bulbs as the difference between the lumiled H4 and the std H4 was pardon the pun (night and day)
I'm thinking about losing the top fairing and just having a single 7" headlamp instead (with possibly a headlamp fairing at a later date)
so i've seen this headlamp on fleabay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-Daymaker-40...2180490055
I'm wanting to know will this be possible to wire into the std fazer loom?
i'm ok with cutting crimping soldering and heatshrinking wires etc but dont want to chop the loom only to find it wont work.
obviously i will need a headlamp housing and brackets so any advise as to whether this will work
do i need that ring that comes with the headlight to fit it into something like this?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-7-...2985459260
or will it fir without the ring.
I quite like the idea of a streetfighter type fazer with the option to change it back should i want to at a later date.

cheers

In this thread:
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,24649.0.html

stevierst says I should write this top tip up and make it sticky! Happy to but not sure how/where. Any help appreciated.

Last year's Carole Nash multi bike (3) quote - £279 (after some 'negotiation')
This year's renewal quote - £324 (+16%/£45)
So I go online and get a quote from Bennetts - £275
Ring up Carole Nash and the price falls to £285 (including the usual CN extras)
Why do I have to do this every year?


Incidentally I looked at insuring the 3 bikes separately and they added up to.... £274. So not sure this save money through multi, because you can only ride one bike at a time, actually works.


Looking forward to November 2019  :\

Here some food for though and I would appreciate others ideas on the topic.

I have been thinking about the topic of forks and cornering.

I have heard tell that raising the fork stanchions up through the top steering yoke by 20mm improves the turning in (Steering) on a motorcycle, doing this lowers the front of the motorcycle by that amount, now does lowering the front of the bike by 20mm improve the handling? I can't see it myself, what else it does do is effectively shorten the bike by that amount, now I can see that making a difference to the turn in on a motorcycle, a slightly shorter wheel base.

I have also read that by raising the forks (Lowering the bike) by 20mm causes the bike to be a little less stable on the straights at higher speeds.
If this is true there is a trade off going on here, slightly better steering for sightly worse straight line stability.

Now when approaching a bend we knock the bike down one or maybe two cogs and gently brake to reduce our speed to a safe pace to take the corner, now very gently, and I mean gently hold the front brake a little longer into the bend will cause the bike to dip slightly on the front forks, effectively lowering the front of the bike, or if you prefer shortening the bike as we approach the apex of the bend.

It seems to me that has exactly the same effect as raising the fork stanchions (or lowering the bike) but that shortening it is recoverable as soon as we let go of the front brake lever so there is no compromise to the straight line handling or stability, so as you start to apply power coming out of the apex let the front brake lever go as well
at that point, bike rises with the power and bike is now at it's maximum length and straight line stability is returned in full.

Wot-ch-fink ?