Has anyone fitted adjustable rider foot pegs? having long legs I find the ride slightly cramped, I thought if I could lower the pegs slightly it may help. I was wondering if there was any problems altering the brake and gear selectors?Cheers John
if anyone near PO postcode looking for new tyres I can recommend Russ.
rang him Thursday for new tyres, took his suggestion of Avon's (for my Triumph NightStorm)
he sent me a text Friday midday letting me know they had arrived, and hour & half later I was back on the road (after he had sorted an issue with brakes which couldn't have been spotted without taking the rear wheel out!
Full set of Avons fitted for £236 all in, which about price for a rear other brand
(Protyres were asking £55+vat for fitting as its a cruiser!)
he only fits bike tyres and whilst I was there he had a constant stream of punters with all makes & kinds of bike!
only downside is there isn't a coffee machine :lol (however there is a Maccy D's just down road)
Disappointed in McGregors performance, he was owned. However Khabib hardly gave him any opportunity to take control.
The handful of fights (inside and outside the Octagon AFTER their fight ) certainly put the event in the news, aside from the fact McGregor lost tapping out!
This morning McGregor has spoken and wants a rematch. He needs to seriously pickup his game. Unless he's only thinking about another couple of £million to top-up his bank balance.
Plus since when was there a large Islamic following in Russia? Khabibs constant references to Allah also grew tiring - Allah helped him win.... of course. Trash talk from both camps!
I know this subject has come up before, but I'm struggling to find some conclusive reports on whether they are any good, and where to put them on the 02-FZS600 standard mirror? I am about 6ft tall and don't have a huge jacket to get past, but seem to have big old blind spot. Thanks in advance.
When I lock my bike, I put the chain through the back wheel, but also through the pannier rack because it keeps it off the ground and also makes it a little more difficult for anyone to nick by freezing it and using a sledgehammer.
The only problem is that (because Mr Givi uses rather crap paint and metal on his pannier racks), the paint has got scraped off and the metal is is rusting.
So can anyone suggest a good hard-wearing paint I can use to keep it from getting rusty again?
I've looked at Hammerite, but are there any alternatives?
Just watching Tai Woffinden trying to become triple world speedway champion,won his first heat! needs another 9 points to do it,I really love speedway. :thumbup :thumbup :thumbup
Why is it when ever there's a programme or article in the press it's about the Uk waste/litter that finish's up in the seas, and for the record I think it no plastic should be in the sea's it should be recycled or if it can't be, not used at all. Why is it though these programmes/articles fail to show/blame the countries that's beaches/ river banks are covered knee deep in waste of all kind, especially plastic waste and try to lay the guilt trip on us. There's 2 of us in our house hold and we fill 2 large recycling bins for every 2 weeks for collection. Most of the people on the estate I live on also put out 1 or 2 full bins for every fortnight collection and a green waste bin. We had to ask for a second recycling bin so don't know how families manage with one, because it's not common knowledge you can ask for a second recycling bin. I get annoyed by the way these eco warriors always blame an easy target who for the main are trying there best to recycle, and don't lay the blame where it belongs and most of it does not belong on the shoulders of the UK population.
Having a garage clearout of parts. All good condition and Yamaha parts are genuine originals - photos available. PM for details.
FZS1000 OEM Front Left indicator
FZS1000 OEM Front Right indicator
FZS1000 OEM Rear Left indicator
FZS1000 OEM Rear Right indicator
FZS1000 OEM Front Brake lever
FZS1000 OEM Clutch lever
FZS1000 OEM Handlebars - SOLD
FZS1000 OEM Screen - SOLD
FZS1000 Carbon Can Co stainless steel oval exhaust
FZS600 OEM Front Left indicator
FZS600 OEM Front Right indicator
FZS600 OEM Rear Right indicator
FZS600 (boxeye NOT foxeye) OEM Screen - SOLD
Carbtune II 4 column carb balancing tool - SOLD
Wingrack2 arms with indicators - vgc (no bike specific fitting kit but will throw in well used monokey base plate which I've been using on another rack). - SOLD
Pair Givi E41 Panniers in Yamaha blue - vgc. Great panniers because they have a combination lock as well as key entry. - SOLD
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] had a year old cb1300 04 back in 05 that handled superbly. on sticky Pirellis it even lapped a few cbr6s in the twenty minute laps at a rockingham trackday[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] fast forward to this year and I bought a nice clean 14,00o mile 13 that's runs superb and handles pants.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] tyres are past tjeir best, but theres definitely something more to it.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] ridden in isolation its okish (sorta) but if I go out on me gen one fazer thou (mct set up front and back, uprated springs front and back) then jump on the cb I nearly bin it on the mountain road down into wales.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] So today, finally, I get it to mct and Darren unearths some nasties..[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] First off, water has got under the dust seals and rusted/expanded the metal in the seals along with coating the circlips in white gunk. seals are still holding, but wouldn't have done for much longer. secondly, the left hand leg is in an appalling state internally, whilst the right is typically (for a honda apparently) pretty good. turns out the seals are different, one isn't oe, and whoever changed it (probably not long after it was new according to Darren)then used cheap fork oil that over time became more and more congealed until it quite literally turned into grinding paste consistency. so ive got one leg that's got 14k wear and another that's got 114k wear on the slide and guide bush. they are fooked, well past the wear limits.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] at least I know why it was so bad..[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] anyhoo, its all good. mct has as always, all quality parts in stock, everything is cleaned, polished and re assembled with new parts, quality fluid and new springs (Darren checks the old springs on a specialist machine to calibrate and determine the exact spec so he knows where to go to with the new ones)[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] air gap set, settings done, static sag checked and its tickety boo.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] rear shocks...didn't need anything other than setting up properly (ive always been crap at doing my own suspension) and its test ride time.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] I honestly havnt got the words..[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] bill came in at £435, and honestly, its worth tha twice over. its a new bike. and now a bloody handy tool too..[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] anyhoo, heres the specs in case its of any interest...just gotta get new rubber now...[/color]
Just thought I'd share my experience with this issue especially as so far it has gone in my favour.
Bought some forks with completely seized adjusters and made the usual mistake of trying to force them with loose fitting flat head and obviously sheared off a bit of brass so left it at that and got some pen fluid on it over night. Next day still nothing and it was clear if I continued I'd just strip the brass.
Next step it getting the biggest screw driver available and using a rotary tool with a sanding attachment file the flat head down so it's a really tight fit with no movement at all. Once that's sorted and with the forks off the bike, use a quality 19mm spanner to unscrew the whole adjuster mechanism and give it a good clean with a wire brush then soak it in penetrating fluid over night.
Next day after removing the rubber o ring blowtorch the top/brass bit with a kitchen blowtorch, not a powerful plumbing one as I don't believe it needs to get red hot and perhaps could be damaged by it. Once it's smoking for 30-60 seconds drop it back into the pen fluid which is probably best done outside and in a metal container for obvious reasons, I used a food tin.
Once cooled you should get a bit of movement with the modded screw driver, if not repeat the heating and cooling in pen fluid. After a bit of gentle wiggling it should free up. It will likely sound like shit with grinding or squeaking noises and is unlikely to have any noticeable clicks.
Wrap it in a bit cloth and carefully clamp it with mole grips or a vice but be very careful not to damage the threads and use the old fire by friction method of spinning a stick back and forth very quickly with the screwdriver, just kept at it multiple times throughout the day applying wd40 regularly until it feels nice and smooth and the indicator clicks can be felt and heard.
A word of caution - Be careful not to wind the adjuster in past it's designed stopping point while turning clockwise. It seems the brass cone at the back of the mechanism which protrudes through the steel hole and blocks off the oil flow can be deformed by over tightening which causes the adjuster to have more than the stated 21 clicks as some of the cones end up protruding further.
So far out of the four adjusters I've freed up the clicks range from 24-38. The standard setting for the forks is 6 clicks out from being turn in all the way clockwise but if one of your adjusters has 21 clicks and the other 38 then 6 clicks out will not give the same results. I've noticed the all the adjusters looked the same when wound all the way out, anti-clockwise so if this happens id recommend counting your clicks in, clockwise as opposed to out, anti-clockwise making the standard setting 15 clicks clockwise from the fully turned out (anti-clockwise) position.
This has worked on all four adjusters of my original forks and the additional purchased forks which were all seized solid so I'd say it's a good and safe method. Hope this helps someone at some point because it's a real bitch and bloody expensive if it doesn't go right!