Need some more advice please:

For years I had a BOC ticket and porta pack oxy-acet with the usual stuff for cutting and welding etc then about 3 years ago the licence renewal came in at £400 or so and just not worth it as a nice to have in a DIY workshop and using it every two/four weeks or so.

Be good to have it back (but not at that £400+ price tag) for heating , welding and brazing - has anyone experience of the canister/aerosol fed oxy-acet or oxy propane (less hot but think ok) systems??

Many thanks

orlando

Aldi are doing some ski wear and I was looking at the "100% Merino wool" base layers - here
https://www.aldi.co.uk/c/specialbuys/dat...lar&page=0 but not sure if £17.99 for a short / £19.99 Long sleeve top are good prices. Also wondering if it is actual Merino wool - remembering faux wagu beef at Asda or something or was it Aldi. Faux because it was not "full blown" wagu but was a mix breed.   

Anyone going , been  , got any piccies ?


leaving shortly with my son to see whats new , last day tomorrow if anyone wants to go.....

[size=1em]Some months ago, I ran in to a pedestrian that stepped out in front of me from between two cars, looking the other way. It was a relatively low speed impact, and they were apparently just fine, because they simply walked away after it (didnt stop to abuse me, say sorry, ask what the hell, or anything!) Yes I got it on camera. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G_VVB9W47V8


Since then, somewhat coincidentally, Ive been having some strange issues with my electrics. It could be completely coincidental, and Im hoping that there hasnt been any damage to something.


Anyway, it started with simple things, like I'd turn on the ignition when the headlights were on and start getting a buzzing noise from the dash, the fuel gauge would go over full. Then other things started happening, like the dash would cut out and I would lose the time. Then I would turn the indicators on and they would be very dim and reversed (!!??). Then sometimes I would turn the indicators on and the dash would cut out. Sometimes the dash cuts out and I dont lose the time.


I started suspecting the battery. Maybe the voltage was too low, and the reason for suspecting it is because after a few minutes of running everything would be fine and dandy! [/size]I bought a replacement battery but havent yet installed it as I just moved house etc and other things have taken priority.


But this morning has been the worst so far. It started off as usual. I would turn the headlights off and start it up, then after a minute or two of warming up while I was faffing about with ear plugs, helmet etc I would turn the headlights on, no worries, everything worked as expected. I set off on my commute to work and then everything started going wrong. Trying to use the indicators would cut the dash out and I would lose the time. Seemingly, having the headlights on actually doesnt turn the headlights on, but it does cut the dash out (which means I cant see my speed!) and I cannot indicate, with both indicators dimly lit on the dash. Eventually I figured out that I could indicate if I turned the headlights all the way off, so I had to do most of the commute without headlights just so I could at least indicate. Luckily it wasnt too dark, but I would still have rather had headlights for visibility.


:'(


Has anyone seem crazy behaviour like this? When I ran in to the pedestrian, I did end up covered in some sweet smelling iced coffee drink (sorry, I dont drink coffee so have no idea what it was), and some of it went over some of the controls on the bike. Im wondering if perhaps some of it is causing sticky contacts perhaps? Ive yet to spray some WD40 or similar in to the controls, and now given this morning I am not sure it is related to the battery at all. Final resort is to drop it off at a mechanich I suppose, but thought I'd ask here first if anyone has come across anything like this.

Thanks

I'm looking for a set of givi pannier rails for my gen 1 fazer. Possibly looking for panniers with them...

Guys


Need a bit of advice please: have fitted Oxford muffs before and while they do keep hands warm they collapse onto the levers at remotely high speeds. I've heated grips and prefer to ride with summer gloves hence the need for a bit more wind protection.


Any other options that fit the bike and work ok? - don't care what they look like!


Thanks

thanks to mike, sourced and got a bag of fifty of the little blighters ready for my ivanising and spannering thingy come Christmas break, so got plenty spare gratis if anyone is rebuilding/ servicing their carbs (NOT just putting them into stock in their garage lol).

Hi all, been after a Fazer 1000 for some time and finally bought one today. 2002 1st generation with only 1 owner and only 5500 miles. Its like a brand new bike. Looking forward to getting as much power out of it as possible without spending too much money, and sorting the suspension.

Anybody on here used to own the blue fazer 1000 for sale in Owen Cherrell in Grimsby  ? Sold my thou last year (2005 beauty but it was red and black, just didn't like the colour scheme ) and toying with the idea of another one but it's a bit too far to pop down for a look (I live in Durham ) without knowing more. Long shot but you never know 
Thanks
Carl

I replaced my clutch cable yesterday as i heard and felt something crack through the lever and thought a metal strand had broken or something similar.
But it turned out to be the little plastic sleeve thingy that covers the nipple at the top end of the cable that slots into the lever.


With this plastic on, it does fit very snugly, but my question is what the hell is it there for, and could i have just cleaned out the lever of debris, put the cable end back into the lever and readjusted it again at both ends without any problems?


I don't see the point in it being there at all? If the end needs to move slightly then make the sleeve out of metal, not thin plastic which i think has been disintegrated by the lithium grease i put on the lever for a smoother action.
I've looked at a few photo's on Google and some ends have it and some don't, but i would guess that if they don't have it then the nipple part would have to be bigger to compensate? (wahey)


This is the clearest photo i could get, the top end has the yellow plastic part on the left of the photo. The old cable itself seems fine other than the perished plastic part, so i've kept hold of it as a spare for now.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600...:rk:7:pf:0