Just a test post to see what this forum is like...

Shamelessly stolen from Rob2222:

I know this model numbers:
FZ6-N == Model 2004-2006 Naked
FZ6-S == Model 2004-2006 with fairing
FZ6-NA == Model 2004-2006 Naked & ABS (Anti Lock System)
FZ6-SA == Model 2004-2006 with fairing & ABS (Anti Lock System)
FZ6-NHG(W) == New S2 Model 2007 Naked (W marks Australian version)
FZ6-SHG(W) == New S2 Model 2007 with fairing (W marks Australian version)
FZ6-NAHG == New S2 Model 2007 Naked & ABS (Anti Lock System)
FZ6-SAHG == New S2 Model 2007 with fairing & ABS (Anti Lock System)

Then there are the US models:
FZ6-SS
FZ6-SSC

I've found in different Yamaha PDF's too:
FZ6-S (Europe South Africa)
FZ6-SV (Australia)

FZ6-ST (U49/Canada)
FZ6-STC (California)

FZ6-NHG (Europe/South Africa)
FZ6-NHGW (Australia)

FZ6-SS© From the US Manual 2004.
FZ6-ST© From the US Manual 2005.
FZS6-V© From the US Manual 2006.
FZS6-W© From the US Manual 2007.
FZS6-X© From the US Manual 2008.
FZS6-Y© From the US Manual 2009.

This looks for me that in SS and ST the 2nd letter stands for the year.
And then they changed the system and V-Y stands for the year. (What happens 2011??)

Oh dear.

Well, it looks like:

A = ABS (Anti Lock System)
C = California Version
HG = The 2007 new S2 model. (Why H AND G?)
X = The 2007 new S2 model in the US.
N = Naked
S = Fairing
V = Australian Version
W = Australian Version

BR Robert

Is it on new topics only or just don't work ???

View the centre's website here: Westend Outdoor Centre

[size=1.45em]See more pictures here[/size]


[size=1.45em]Pricing[/size]

Gone up for 2010 (£270 per night for £250) hence places work out at be £27 each for the three nights in a luxuriously appointed bunk bed.

[size=1.45em]Note: spaces have all booked up quickly this year - please don't let this put you off coming - see the sections on camping and dossing down [/size]

Normally those who subsequently cannot make it will get their deposit/money back, dependent upon the timing i.e once I have committed to the food spend which is usually around a week prior then refunds will only be made if your place can be passed on.  Otherwise the shortfall has to be covered by those who have attended.  As last year you have plenty of time to book the time off; that said I appreciate "stuff" happens and can't be avoided - be assured I will try me very best to refund you if this happens.

Food/beer will be around £35-£40 per head - the non meat eaters and tee-totalers get a corresponding reduction on the cost. 

This has always been a three night event.  If you want to stay for less then fine, but again I've booked for three nights so you pay for three nights.  Last year (2010) people not staying Sunday did get a discount but only because there was a surcharge this year.  I had considered a system whereby those wanting only two nights paid more per night but less in total than those staying for three but it depends on numbers but its too much hassle for me.

Popping over for one night only? Normally anyone who turns up on the Sunday (or other night but there is unlikely to be any spare bunks on the Fri and Sat) and takes a vacated bunk chucks some money in the kitty.

Saturday Entertainment

Of the musical variety.................will look to book the band again for the Saturday night - Les has offered to bring along his band but Steve says they are shit

Payment

You can pay me cheque, Paypal or Bank Transfer (preferred)

send email to 2011@springmeet.co.uk and I will forward the details

Please DO NOT use the Yuku PM feature!

Beverages

Sufficient quantities of alcoholic and non-alcholic are provided

Food

There will be the usual (excellent local butchers) BBQ fayre for the Friday and Saturday nights together with the usual snacks etc

For Sunday night this time will go for the  steak pie, peas, mash, gravy option.

There will be full cooked breakfast on the Sat and Sun mornings.


Camping (NOT FREE)

There are quite large grounds attached to the centre which can be used for camping

The following rates apply:
£5 per person per night, or £10 per tent per night
(payable to me to subsequently pay the proprietor).  On top of the camping fees campers will have to pay the food/beer/entertainment charge.

I have a family type tent (will sleep six) and another Vango tent (sleeps two realistically) which I can erect for anyone who wants to camp but doesn't fancy lugging a tent with them?

Dossing Down Inside (also NOT FREE)

There are two first floor lounge areas in the bunkhouse (one which lends itself perfectly as a overflow sleeping area). There are no beds but I can provide (free of charge - as I am a Lancastrian not a Yorkshireman) a limited number of air beds.

I have cleared this with the proprietor, however, as he is a proper Yorkshireman, there will be a £5 per person per night charge


This is an alternative to camping at similar cost but all you need to bring is a sleeping bag. This option will be limited to a maximum of ten people (due to space and I only have five airbeds and only two of them currently work - this should be resolved for 2011 and I can look at getting some more or even borrowing some camp beds).

Bookings/Bunk Allocation
1 - Moffmeister (paid in full)
2 - Stualdino (deposit paid £15)
3 - Looney Tunes & Mrs Looney
5 - MurphySG (deposit paid £9)
6 - Imagine Beer Slag
7 - Chrisbiker (paid in full)
8 - Billy600
9 - Krisdookie & Fluffs (deposit paid £9)
11 - Matty
12 - Marchride
13 - Eddie & Val (deposit paid £67)
15 - aroughcircle
16 - Neilly71 (deposit paid £30)
17 - Mrs & Mrs Scragmeister
19 - Master Scragmeister
20 - Nakedadder (deposit paid £50)
21 - Hobbsy (deposit paid £50)
22 - Fazerboy + The Undertaker (deposit paid £50)
24 - Sheldon22
25 - Bigmac +1 (deposit paid £60)
27 - Lastinspace (deposit paid £60)
28 - Frosty Fingers
29 - Bigralphie (deposit paid £12)
30 - Colin (deposit paid £30)

Campers
31 - Oldgit (deposit paid £25)
32 - Alex Watson (deposit paid £25)
33 - Streethawk

Reserves

Richy
Hamos

Mongolian Wok - all you can eat Buffet

1pm onwards in Bedford


3a The Broadway
Bedford
Bedfordshire
England
MK40 2TJ

Not the most exciting of tests  :rolleyes

Attached Files

  yamaha_88026_2010_fz1fazer_eur_logo_001_cmyk copy.jpg (Size: 25.46 KB / Downloads: 3)

Originally posted by MikeGTX, alias Falcon 269
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For anyone who's looking to replace the bearings on their Fazer 1000, the following is a list of the bearing types and sizes you'll need.

While you can get most of these from bearing factors all over the UK, I strongly recommend you contact Marc at BikeBearings UK (http://www.bikebearings.co.uk/) as this chart would not have been possible without a great deal of research and cooperation on his part. His prices are very competitive and he deserves our trade, I believe. 

Marc's website lists all the necessary bearings in specific kits for front, rear and the rear sprocket carrier. He also offers taper roller bearing sets for the steering head.

I hope you find this useful and that it saves you time and expense buying replacement bearings at inflated Yamaha dealer prices.

Cheers

Mike


Front Wheel Bearings & Seals BikeBearings UK kit YA004
2 x 60/22 2RS sealed race ball bearings
2 x 28mm x 44mm x 7mm seals

Rear Wheel Bearings & Seal BikeBearings UK kit YA001
1 x Koyo or INA sealed needle bearing ref bkm354220-1UU
1 x 60/28 2RS sealed race ball bearing
1 x 35mm x 52mm x 8mm seal

Sprocket Carrier Bearing & Seal BikeBearings UK kit YA002
1 x Koyo 62/28 2RS sealed race ball bearing
1 x 40mm x 58mm x 7mm seal

Tapered Steering Head Bearings BikeBearings UK kit YA003
1 x Koyo 32005JR taper roller bearing - internal diameter 25mm
1 x Koyo 32006JRRS taper roller bearing with bonded seal - internal diameter 30mm

Suspension linkage bearings, collars & seals no kit name.
They're not listed but Marc knows which ones are required. Get in touch and tell him what you need.
2 x 93317-31771-00 BEARING (HMK1720C/2A)
4 x 93317-21746-00 BEARING (HMK 1715C/2A)

He can't, though, help you with the oil seals and spacer bushes. You will need genuine Yamaha parts. That said, you can re-use the seals if they're in reasonable condition and you remove them carefully.
Part numbers are:
8 x 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL
1 x 90387-102R4-00 COLLAR (ie spacer bush)
1 x 90387-127W0-00 COLLAR
2 x 90387-126Y1-00 COLLAR

Inner Ring/Collar (this is the collar that goes on the left hand side) INNER RING
1 x 28x35x32mm


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If not using bikebearings.co.uk

When it comes to buying the bearings and seals, try to opt for European make rather than Japanese, as they are invariably higher quality.

RHP/SKF are a good bet for the bearings, and BSL (Bearing Service Ltd) are an excellent source in most decent size towns (and wolverhampton).

Try to haggle on the price, as you will probably be quoted full list and it's not uncommon for trade to get discounts of up to 70%

I have raised a new chain, as the FZ6 connection layout is slightly different to previous models.

Heres my account, and would suggest reading through other postings as well, as thats what I went by. Sorry, no photos but havent moved into digital age yet.

Tools / materials required
For the actual job.
1 to 1.5m of suitable wire. (Cost about 1.00)
(Black is least conspicuous or green if you wish to comply with colour of feed wire.)
1 x 8mm right angled female spade connector.
(About 50p from vehicle electrical outlet or scrap car/bike dealer for nothing.)
1 or 2 suitable wire connector for new connection. (Spade or bullet connectors, about 50p again.)
1 pair wire crimpers / cutters. (Pliers may suffice.)
1 length of wood or similar to support tank open. About 45 to 60cm or so.
New brighter headlight bulbs ? If youre considering upgrading bulbs nows a good time to do it.

For access to parts.
4mm hex key.
5mm hex key.
10mm spanner or socket.
Philips screw driver.

Preparation
Disconnect and remove both right and left fairing inners, as tank cannot be lifted with them in place.
2 bolts on outside of fairing each side, 1 either side of clocks, and tiny plastic screw under mirror stalks. (4mm hex key + Philips screw driver)
Unlock and remove seat to allow tank to be raised.
Disconnect 2 fuel tank front mounting bolts + raise tank. (5mm hex key)
Support with piece of wood propped against head stock.
Disconnect battery for safety purposes. (10mm socket or Phillips screw driver)
Switch of fuel supply. (I didnt bother with this bit though.)

Trace wiring loom from left handlebar control to where it meets with a multi connector.

This connector is located behind the headstock, just in front of battery box, with wires feeding to it through an opening in LHS of frame. (There is no connection box as on previous models.)
Pull 2 halves of multi connector apart for clarity.
You will see (I think) 11 wires from handlebar to connector and only 10 coming out the other side.
The spare GREEN feed wire is the one we want.

Connections
Cut or prise this wire free from connector.
Crimp new female insulated connector to green wire and male to new wire and connect together, possibly wrap in insulating tape or heat shrink to keep water out.
Run new wire through frame opening and follow main wiring loom around LHS of fairing, under the lights on towards RH headlight, securing in place with insulating tape or tie wraps as you see fit.

You will notice there are more multi wiring connectors on the inside of LH fairing.
I put a further bullet connector here so that, should I ever need to remove the fairing, I can disconnect all wires at one place without requiring access to the other connectors.

At the headlight.
Cut wire to appropriate length, allowing a little slack to man-handle it.
Crimp 8mm right angled spade connector to wire.
Remove light connector block from light and open flap on back to gain access.
Insert 8mm spade into the free space in connector and push in firmly.
Push connector onto headlight.
Tidy up any loose wire in the vicinity.

At this point refit / reconnect the battery and check everything works OK. WHICH IT WILL.
Both lights should now work on dipped beam, and the RH one will go out in preference for the other filament on full beam.
If theres any problem, check all connections, otherwise start to put everything back together.

Reassembly
Tighten up any other connections in the vicinity of battery and connectors that may have been loosened to gain access.
Turn petrol back on.
Lower petrol tank + secure.
THEN refit fairing inners.
Refit the rubber boots that go around mirror stalks.
Notice that there are rubber knobs on the rear of these gaiters which locate into holes in fairing.
Take a few seconds to locate these correctly for a good fit.
Refit seat.
Start bike to ensure no other issues. (See footnote)

AND THATS ABOUT IT !
EASY, EH ?


Now the points where I had a bit of hassle.

The multi connector located at the rear of the headstock is poked into a very tight space through an opening in the main frame on the LHS.

Unfortunately, on my bike, the wiring loom had very little slack in it and due to other cables routing through the same opening there wasnt sufficient space to pull the whole connector through this opening in order to reach the wire that you want. 

So, if yours is the same, here you have 2 options.
1. Simply cut the GREEN wire at the most accessible point + make connection there.
(In retrospect, although not ideal, this is perhaps the easiest option.) 
2. Continue to rummage around until you are able to free the connector.
(The choice I took + was somewhat more fiddly.) 

The reason I persevered was simply that I was not confident enough to go cutting wires until I was 100% convinced that it was not already connected to something else !!
However I can now confirm that it IS the GREEN wire which you require, however it is up to you to determine where it is safe to cut.

In order to gain enough free space to get at the multi connector I ended up removing the battery, and loosening the battery tray and various other bits and bobs in the vicinity so I could get my fat hands far enough in to wiggle the connector free.
None of this was difficult but it was pretty fiddly and frustrating given that I expected this to be a very quick job. Hence I refer you back to option 1 above !

Once you have the connector free proceed as in the main text above.
NB - The only difficult bit was getting TO the connector.
Once I had that free, it was extremely easy.


Problem starting bike ?
If the bike wont start, do not immediately assume you have mucked up something major in the ignition, immobiliser or alarm. Remember to check that the kill switch hasn’t been knocked by accident !!
This will be obvious to experienced bikers but somebody else WILL forget, AS I DID !!!   

Good luck and dont be put off by my lengthy description.
I may have just been unlucky !

Cheers.
Rich.

NB. This is purely an account of my experience, and I obviously accept no liability for any mistakes, accidents, or other consequences however caused, of anyone choosing to follow a similar process.
You do so at your own risk.

*****

I've had a look at this in more detail and can confirm that the connection plug is in a right bitch of a place.

One thing you new guy's will have to be careful of is cutting wires its a sure way of defaulting your warranty.

RD's idea of an intermediate connection is a good idea for isolation for fairing removal and MOT's.

The connection in the plug is reversed from the old style ones, to marry up the plug correctly you should use a male connector. With the right fitments you would only have to push in the new extra connector into the block job done.

*****

This is my account of what happened today.........

I lifted tank, and decided I was gonna go the whole hog of removing stuff to get to connector, so removed battery, hoping to take battery box out, realised that the air box was holding battery box in, removed top of air box, but still the battery box lugs were underneath this, since the battery box was of flimsy plastic, I pushed the lugs out but to no avail - the battery box looked like it was staying where it was !!  ...... a bit more thinking.... the electrical device in front of the battery box (starter soleniod??) if only I could move that me thinks, then I'd have access, realised this was held in by a plastic lug on one side and a very inaccessable screw on the other. So I pushed the plastic lug out, then pulled this device up at about a 45 degree angle, then pulling the flimsy battery box forward, I had access to the connector, and pulled it out.... at last !! I had access, then it was the easy matter of locating the green wire pulling the spade out and soldering a length of wire onto it.

I refitted everything and fired bike up, and checked ALL the switches thank god, everything is working.......

Tomorrow I will do the easy task of fitting the wire to the headlight.

Will report back tomorrow if it works.

I guess since the bike was designed to work with two lights as the wiring is all there, then the battery, alternator and related electrical items will be up to powering two headlights??? I do short journeys to work so I am fitting an inline fuse, I may disconnect the headlight for the short journey to prevent a flat battery. - and just use the two lights for long journeys.

..................finished off this morning with the wiring, included a inline fuse but I only had a 7.5amp fuse and I see from the handbook the headlight fuse should be 20amp - so it may blow, anyone know the amps/volts/watts equation?

The lights work correctly ie turn ignition on, no lights, fire bike up and both lights come on just as bike fires   

*****

got answer from google..

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

so for one headlight at 55watts = a 4.5amp fuse at minimum so 7.5 is about right.

for headlight and main beam it works out at 10amps so the handbook at 20amps seems right too.

*****
MOST IMPORTANT!!!!!

Remember that the lights dont come on until the engine is running!!!!!!! Before you double check and triple check the wiring loom.
*****

I just completed this mod and can also confirm that it was the thick lighter green cable for me (there is another thinner darker green cable which shouldn't be touched). I didn't bother removing the battery etc. as it seemed like an awful lot of hassle. I just removed the tape from around the wires that originate from the LHS handlebar right by where they disappear into the LHS of the frame. This exposed the 11 wires as described in other posts. I then cut the green with my fingers crossed, completed the rest of the work and hey presto. Looks great. Will report if I have any battery problems.



*****

Having done this on my FZ6 - I was asked to do it for someone else so I took pictures this time.

Wired up the headlight first with the right angled connector, notice the in line fuse. (wiring to be tidied up later)


removed fairing pieces to enable tank to be lifted, removed battery...




next :- see the electrical component in front of battery box, one side its bolted on (no access to bolt) the other side is held in place with a plastic lug remove this (where finger is pointed)



next swing this electrical component up and try to wiggle connector out from below (NOT EASY) here, the wiring of connector is just appearing....


wiggle connector out (NOT EASY)


having got the damn thing out, split the connector like so.


Now look at the pins, both have four on one side and six on the other, but there's an odd pin in the middle, pull this one out, it will be the thicker green wire



solder the wire running to your headlight, the rubber sleeve has been replaced over the connector (which is why it is now hidden)


Finally tuck everything away, wire here just needs tucking away now....


NB, by removing the battery, it gives a bit more room cos then the battery box can be pushed in somewhat, and swinging the electrical component to one side, there's just enough access to locate the connecter.

be warned, it aint easy.


Phil.


Originally contributed by RD, The Bean Machine, Thanos, deefer 666, whapper, Bluecray 3/2004-6/2007

Shamelessly pinched from FZ6-forum.com by Nooj, 9/2008

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 13
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Intake air pressure sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake air pressure sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Probable cause of malfunction:
detected hose
clogged hose
Intake air pressure sensor hose is detached, clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 15
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: Throttle position sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed throttle position sensor.

Fault Code: 16
Diagnostic Code: 01
Symptom: A stuck throttle position sensor is detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Stuck throttle position sensor.
Malfunction in ECU. 01

Fault Code: 19
Diagnostic Code: 20
Symptom: Open circuit in the input line of ECU No4 terminal is detected when the start switch is pressed.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness (ECU coupler).
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 21
Diagnostic Code: 06
Symptom: Coolant temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective coolant temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 22
Diagnostic Code: 05
Symptom: Intake air temperature sensor-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective intake temperature sensor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

Fault Code: 30
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: The motorcycle has overturned.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Overturned.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 33
Diagnostic Code: 30
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 1, #4).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 34
Diagnostic Code: 31
Symptom: Open circuit is detected in the primary lead of the ignition coil (# 2, #3).
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness.
Malfunction in ignition coil.
Malfunction in ECU.
Malfunction in a component of ignition cut-off circuit system.

Fault Code: 41
Diagnostic Code: 08
Symptom: Lean angle cut-off switch-open or short circuit detected.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective lean angle cut-off switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 42
Diagnostic Code: 07, 21
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the speed sensor; or, an open or
short circuit is detected in the neutral switch.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective speed sensor.
Malfunction in vehicle speed sensor detected unit.
Defective neutral switch.
Malfunction in the engine side of the neutral switch.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 43
Diagnostic Code: 09
Symptom: Supply power to the injector and fuel pump is not normal
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open circuit in wiring harness. (red/blue line or blue/yellow line)
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault Code: 44
Diagnostic Code: 60
Symptom: An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The CO adjustment value is not properly written on or read from the internal memory).

Fault Code: 46
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Power supply to the FI system is not normal.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in "CHARGING SYSTEM".

Fault code: 50
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Faulty ECU memory. When this malfunction is detected, the code
number might not appear on the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Malfunction in ECU. (The program and data are not
properly written on or read from the internal memory.)

Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-2
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-3
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Fault code: Er-4
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: Non-registered data has been received from the meter.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Improper connection in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.

Quarter past 3 GMT.