Ok so I got up this morning to go to work and the bike won't start!  :wall
Over the weekend and last night we've had rain, sleet and hailstones so I'm assuming water has got in somewhere. (The bike lives outside in my garden).
Electrics are working, the bike turns over strongly but doesn't kick into life. Tried with the kickstand up in case it's the switch.
Sprayed isopropyl alcohol on the plugs, up the leads and on the connector at the back of the coils, still not working!
Any Ideas on what to do next are welcome, I need to get the thing going as I've a big journey to do tomorrow!

Venue Same as previously:  West End Outdoor Centre, Bank Dike Hill, Thruscross, Harrogate, HG3 4BA - this postcode will take you past it - Sat Nave Coords: Lat:54.013713 Long:-1.779242


When

Spring Bank 'Oliday weekend i.e. arrive Friday 24-May - stay for three nights - fek off 'ome Monday 27-May (Bank 'Oliday)Pricing It has gone up to £1100 for the three nights (was £1050 last year) which is £35 per person per bunk total for the full three nights - still a  'kin bargin!

Total 'all in' for bunk, food, booze is £90 (currently) see Pricing Summary below.

## CAMPING AND DOSSING DOWN IS FREE AS PREVIOUSLY ##  BUT IF ALL BUNKS ARE NOT FILLED THEN A CONTRIBUTION WILL BE REQUIRED FROM CAMPERS/DOSSERS !!

Deposits and Payment

Normally those who subsequently cannot make it will get their deposit/money back assuming the place can be passed on.  Otherwise the shortfall has to be covered by those who have attended.

As every year you have plenty of time to ‘book the time off’; that said I appreciate "stuff" happens and can't be avoided - be assured I will try me very best to refund you if this happens and your excuse is genuine.I have already paid the £200 deposit to secure the booking. I need to pay the FULL balance for the accommodation (by the end of April).

On this basis I will be expecting a minimum deposit (per bunk place) of £40 no later than 31-March.Priority for bunk places will be given to those paying deposits -  A deposit can be any amount £10 or upwards but only full £40 will secure your place.  Multiple deposits are fine but I'd prefer it all in one i.e. for bunks the full £40. 

I will be expecting payment IN FULL (i.e. total inc. food) no later than two weeks prior to the meet. If you have not payed in full by 10-May then, if demand, your place will be offered to others. Deposits will only be refunded in exceptional circumstances or your place is taken.  If your place is taken, the person taking it shall pay me the difference between the deposit paid (by you) and the total amount payable i.e. you are responsible for recovering your deposit from them yourself (obviously I will put you in contact with them).  Anyone dropping out at the "last minute" will only be refunded in exceptional circumstances.

Food/beer/band/sundries

will be ca. £55 per head -  tee-totalers get a corresponding reduction on the cost; reduction if you don't drink alcohol ca. £24.

Veggies note as I will still be buying you some veg food then as this roughly equates with the cost for BBQ and breakfast meat there is no reduction.  You need to tell me what you want - alternatively if you want to cater for yourself (bring your own or eat twigs and leaves from outside etc) then a ca. £5 reduction applies.

This has always been a three night event.  If you want to stay for less then fine, but again I've booked for three nights so you pay for three nights.  Popping over for one night only? Normally anyone who turns up on the Sunday (or other night but there is unlikely to be any spare bunks on the Fri and Sat) and takes a vacated bunk chucks some money in the kitty (assuming you want to eat and drink) -  £20 is about right (£25 for Saturday). 

Note if you are camping or dossing you only pay for the nights you stop.

You can pay me by Bank Transfer or PayM using my mobile number(or Paypal but bank transfer my preference...) - note the bank details changed two years ago! so check first before paying - the correct/valid account number ends ….4567.##DO NOT use the PM feature to contact me - use email, Whatsapp or Facebook Messenger!


Pricing Summary (guide)

Bunk + Food + Meat + Booze = £90 per person - for campers £57
Bunk + Food + Meat = £66 per person (teetotalers) - for campers £31

See note above for vegetarians.

These are subject to confirmation but generally any uplift has previously been less that £5 per person overall.

Saturday Entertainment -  TBC

Thinking of giving the band a miss this year.  This will reduce the cost per person (for those staying Saturday) by ca. £6.

What do people think?


Beverages

Sufficient quantities of alcoholic and non-alcoholic are provided as usual.


Food


As always there will be the usual (my excellent local butchers) BBQ fayre for the Friday and Saturday nights together with the usual snacks etc. For Sunday night: tbc


There will be a stupendous full cooked breakfast on the Sat and Sun mornings (subject to volunteer cooks!! and washer uppers)


Camping (FREE)


Camping is free (just pay for food/booze) - unless all bunks are not filled in which case a contribution will be reqd!

Dossing Down Inside (also FREE)


Dossing is free (just pay for food/booze) - unless all bunks are not filled in which case a contribution will be reqd!  This is an alternative to camping but all you need to bring is a sleeping bag. This option will be limited to a maximum of ten people (due to space and I only have five airbeds - and I really can't be arsed).


Booking Summary

[smg id=3322]

I've fitted a pair of these and a pair of Racetech's rebound valves inside my own front forks to improve the somewhat average damping
Selling these as I'd ordered a second set by mistake from the States  :o
So, a pair of new, unused, unopened compression valves for the front forks: they replace the standard valves. 
Makes a huge difference to the damping and costs far less than what Maxton now charge to modify compression valving, also less than K-Tech's replacement valves.
Comes with instructions and a one-off activation code which allows you to set the valving for your specific weight / requirements through Racetech's website.
Requires a partial fork stripdown to install (don't need to replace the fork seals, just remove the central damper mechanism) but well worth the effort. 

Normally around £150 + Import Tax + Post from the States (They appear to be only available from the States: cost me about £217 in all)

£100 inc post
Could email pics if required

Currently looking at options to remould/rebuild my FZ6 S2 seat. Finding distance from pegs to seat a bit tight on knees and edges of seat dig in a little. Seen companies that'll take a stock seat, rebuild foam and recover. Would like to get a slightly taller seat, more of a lump to shove arse against and generally more comfy. But, in order to keep my bike on road I'd like to source a cheap seat for sending off.


I know the S2 had a slightly different 2-tone cover pattern. Any other differences? Is the actual base and fitting interchangeable?

Hi
Can anyone tell me what is the length of the standard forks, from the centre of the axle to the top edge of the fork cap.
Looking for this measurement in 3 forms:
totally unweighted, with weight of bike alone, and a general idea of what it should be with bike + rider (when correctly set up).
Thanks !

https://youtu.be/uMsTO8oeLa8

any one have a rough 1000 seat for sale ???

Where is the best place to get a pair of headlight covers for a 2004 fazer 6.
looking for light smoked or purple in colour.  I have looked on ebay and can't find any in the UK.

does anyone have a coolant hose that runs from the filler cap to the cylinder head at the rear for sale please --

Always lamenting the longer throttle on the Fzs1000 compared to the Fzs600 I fixed it today by fitting the 2006 on R6 Throttle tube today. Yamaha part number is 2C0-26240-00
Much better now and more like the 600 when blipping the throttle now on down changes. The 1000 throttle tube has about a 36mm diameter cable section as standard whereas the R6 one has about 40mm diameter cable section. The early R6 is too similar to the FZS1000 to be worthwhile.Fitting was straight forward enough, lift the tank, get as much slack on the cables as you can. Loosen the lock nut on the rear cable and wind it all the way back.  Wind out the adjuster on the front cable to allow you dislodge the front cable from its the mounting. Undo the knurled lock ring on the cable near the front brake lever and wind it back all the then screw the adjuster back all the way. Remover the end weight. Remove the two Allen bolts on the switch gear (longest one to the front. Lift off the kill switch section and then remove the cables rear one first. Rotate the tube forward(anticlockwise) and undo the front cable at the bottom. Install the front cable first on with the tube cable holding section down and put the front cable into what seems like the wrong hole the rear one as you look at the tube. Now rotate the tube clockwise to bring the cable mount to the top and install the rear cable. Put it all back together locating the switch gear in the hole if using the original bars, ensure the black disc is on the outside of the switch gear and replace the Allen bolts tighten them up.This is metal into plastic so do not over tighten them.
At the carburetor side relocate the front cable and tighten up the adjuster. Check the slack on the throttle and turn the bars full left and full right checking the slack each time. rear side was a bit more fiddly as I need to get maximum possible slack here. Pushing the cable down on the mount and using a fine screwdriver turn the lock nut anti clockwise as far as possible literally wiggling the throttle cable while doing so to get the maximum turns. Tighten the locknut and check the slack again bars straight ahead and full lock left and right. Any slack can now be taken up this the cable adjuster near the front brake lever.