Maybe it is just me but does anyone else find they leave their indicators on? Why was the good old self cancelling 70s and 80s idea done away with? Is there an easy to fit audible indication unit like on a car? I am conscious of not cancelling them and feel I spend too much time looking down checking the idiot lights! :o Or are there bulbs in the idiot lights that can be changed to brighter ones, might help.
My bike wont start! The starter relay has the red cable connected from the battery but the black cable has come loose. Does any one know what bolt size I need to re-attach. Attached a picture to make more sense.
in the attached image taken from a Haynes manual for an fzs600 1998 where there shows an "Alarm".
can anyone please tell/ show me where this alarm is on the machine and what its fuction is?!
(as far as i can tell from looking at the wiring diagram its a connector block for testing the earth points of the electrics around the bike... but am totally not sure!)
Hello all.
More EXUP problems that you are surly all tired of reading but thought id give it a go.
Bike was sat for about 4 months, as predicted code 7 appeared, went for a blast to try and clear but to no avail. I have check the cables are at the correct tension, and once that failed, i have resorted to removing it to see the problem.
The issue i have discovered is the valve is not moving, it has siezed to the end plate, no amount of force will get it to budge... Any ideas before i break it?
Or does anyone know where i could purchase a replacement if needs be? guessing i will also need cables as they have probably been ruined from trying to turn the valve when it was stuck...
The other option is to get rid of the valve completely with these, although id rather not spend the cash: https://www.blackwidowexhausts.co.uk/fzs...-126-p.asp
Cheers
Hi,
I'm about to remove my engine (Fzs 600 2002) and need some help..
which way do I remove the engine, is there a better way, from let say Left ?
Do I need to remove the oilfilter to help the removal?
so I’m a big lad, 22 stone, but damn these brakes ain’t sharp ffs. It’s done 45k and I don’t think much has been done to her other than oil changes. Engine is sweet, just had valve clearances done and pretty much all of them were miles out. But the brakes are crap. Pull the front brake hard and it will stop but 3 finger pulls are poor at best
I’m thinking a fluid change would be a start, but then steel braided lines at same time will surely improve the performance?
Riding home my rev counter started switching from 7k to 5k to 0 then back to 7k 5k 0.
It did eventually go back to normal but was it highlighting a fault code or just playing up?
I fitted a new front bt016 to the yam, and while I had the wheel out finally remembered to fit a decent 90 degree valve, As its finished winter commuting duties now, im changing or sorting corroded bolts etc as I go. the front axle pinch bolt was a simple swap for a stainless one, whilst I cleaned up the caliper bolts with a wire wheel, then done the old heat/oil thingy to rustproof and black them. Cleaning up the caliper, I found three winters have really taken their toll, despite regular maintenavce. One of the pistons was so tight, the pin the pads slide on was actually bent. I know from experience that no amount f brake cleaner/toothbrushing is gonna sort the problem; corrosion in the piston seal groove is pushing the buggers out, and they need stripping, cleaning and new seals.
So...ive never done blue spots before. Im assuming I gotta get a tool to unscrew the plug and the pistons pull out of the hole. what im not sure of is how this affects the piston seals when you re-assemble..ie normally you have the lip to the inside of the caliper..but how do I push the pistons back in from behind without damaging them if thats the case? Also, is Fowlers and genuine seals the way forward, or are the fleabay ones ok? all help much appreciated fellers....
