So I took the bike in for it's MOT. Passed without advisory. She's a 2001 with just 10k on the clock and in immaculate condition. Filled her up with petrol on way home and as I turn out the petrol station the arse end kicks out and she goes down on the left hand side.
To say I'm devastated would be an understatement.
Damage sustained.
Alternator casing smashed.
Mirror Scuffed
Front Fairing Smashed
Front Indicator ripped off
Rear fairing scuffed
Bar end scuffed
Clutch Lever scuffed
Rear indicator scuffed
Gear pedal bent
Rear pillion peg bent
Tank dented and scuffed
I rang the insurance who wrote it off in an instant. Initially I was happy with this as I had spat my dummy out and that was me done for biking.
I've calmed a little and have now put the recovery on hold whilst I assess the costs to repair. It's looking promising but I'm stuck on a few bit and could do with some help.
1. Are the parts from Wemoto genuine Yamaha parts. They have the clutch lever, indicators and mirror.
2. Has anybody fitted one of the front fairings from Ebay. Comes from Poland. Looks a good copy.
3. Where can you but the plastic rivets that hold the front infil panels from?
4. Anybody got a perfect rear left pillion peg?
5. Likewise for a alternator cover although I can get a used one from Ebay and have it stripped and powder coated.
6. Can you get the metal screws the hold the front fairing to the frame near the petrol tank?
7. Is there a company that can remove dents from petrol tanks? It's similar to a car park trolley dink on a car door. Think the handlebars caused it.
I'm basically throwing myself at the mercy of you all to help me through and get her back to normal.
Advice getting the front nose cone off would be useful too. I think I'm nearly there but is there a guide on here somewhere?
Too many unfinished projects, currently have to clear a path through the garage, so some stuff has to go.BMW S1000RR rear shock, longer brown top version. Top preload ramp screw (Torx) replaced with a stainless allen head bolt. Sadly no washers for the top mount, but choice of dogbones - either a set to put the rear-end back at standard height (150mm) or slightly longer dogbones to lower the back-end around 20mm (155mm - pictured). Also, apart from standard BMW spring I have a spare spring in black, which is rated 650lbs/inch, suiting those who are more 'big-boned' Downside is that it's only 6 inches long, so *might* require a spacer - not sure, never got a round to swapping it over...
I have my beloved silver Gen 1 FZ1 for sale. I've streetfightered it purely as a project and it's all done and finished.
I still have all the original parts including the clocks original and replacement fairings, end can etc, if you want to change it back.
What I've done:
Fitted a new TFT screen and a fabricated a bracket for it
New twin headlights
Tail tidy, looks massively better.
LED progressive indicators
Renthal bars
bar-end mirrors
Serious tidying up of the wiring so you can't see it
Removed fairing, infill panels and brackets.
A1 end can sounds great and passed the last MOT with it (no advisories).
Looks awesome and with the reduced weight, the handling is awesome.
About the bike, it's a 5FLV with 18338 genuine miles at the last MOT, it's only done a couple of hundred since.
It has an MOT until 12 June, but it is currently SORNED as I use my TDM in the winter, I'll put 12 months MOT on it.
Tyres are both good. The bike itself is very tidy and clean.
The bike lives with me in Wolverhampton.
Finally got around the getting the bike cleaned, mot'd and ready for sale. The bike is good condition for age and has 40k on the clock, so the engine is old & noisy but bulletproof. The bike was my daily commuter till I upgraded and it comes with the following accessories -
# Heated grips.
# Old oxford handlebar muffs.
# LED spotlights - these make a massive improvement to the night-time viability.
# R&G crash boddins - these are the large type, wont bend or snap.
# Full stainless exhaust system - easier to clean and should last the life of the bike.
# Braided front & rear hoses.
# Rad guard of a Mk1 1200.
# Small disk lock.
# Haynes manual.
The tyres, chain & sprockets have load of life left in them. And the front discs were replaced not that long ago and rear/front pads were done at the MOT. And I have fitted new riders foot pegs and gear lever.
I'm looking for £2k which is a fair price and mine is better condition than all the ones I have seen on Autotrader.
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]you probably know all these already. me, being a builder, did not[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] I only found out about five years ago you can get relays with built in fuse holders. bolt it somewhere to allow access to the fuse and it looks pukka... No more inline fuses flapping about. At roughly the same time I also found out you can get actual relay connection blocks, that look so much better than lots of naked spade connectors crimped to wires. Its easy to remove the tabs too, so you can swap them around depending on what colour tail you want to use for permanent live/switched feed etc. brilliant. Finally, last summer my bro in law showed me these luter connectors you can get. normally, I try to spline wires together then solder them then heat shrink over. These luter jobbies you just feed a wire in from either end so the bare strands are in the inbuilt solder band, then apply heat via a small nozzle on a hot air gun.dunno if the solder has a low melting point or summat, but it melts, bonds the wires, and then heat shrinks over the join. cleverly thought out too...one side has a slightly larger bore, meaning you can splice thicker cable to thinner, or if taking a spur off (as I did for a switched feed off the back light), you can feed two wires into the larger bore to meld into the single wire on the other side. all three things together make for a pro looking job that you aint gotta worry about. I still used a big heat shrink to contain all the wires and look neat, but its nice to know each individual joint underneath is both strong and watertight. And it looks factory, along with taking the worry outta leaving the grips on. took the xjr out today with both heated grips and underjacket and it was berluddy lovely. the trade off for three hours out on the bike was an hour to wash the salt off and drown it in fs365/wd40, but worth it.[/color]
This is from Friday.
Went to work on the bike 35 miles away, fired first time after 3 weeks and nothing unusual. It got a clean over Christmas but wasn't warmed up to dry out. Felt the exhaust was a bit noisy but seeing as I still run original pipes not too concerned.
The bike sat in the rain all day at work and it was cold, started first time but then stalled as I pulled away up the hill, restarted fine and off I went. Pulled onto the main road which is a quick acceleration due to the brow of a hill and then after 300 meters slowed for a 30 zone, all good so far.
A mile or so the 30 changes to 40 and I roll on in top gear but the bike judders and won't pull, do it a couple of times and drop a couple of gears but the same, but at a constant throttle its fine, or a very gradual increase in speed. After another couple of miles pull over and rev the bike in neutral and revs fine. I set off again and all is well, pulls fine in all gears and the exhaust note seems to have changed.
Was this a misfire, a dropped cylinder due to the cold and wet? Is there a chance that it was running like that all morning and that was the throaty noise I assumed was a holey exhaust and is it ok to run with a dropped cylinder?
spent the last two weeks building a long stone wall at my partners family home. took ages because of the bloody weather. as im a biker I decided to mix some bike bits in with the rock. so, cunningly concealed, you can just make out a high tech Harley belt pulley and one of those ktm front lights that look like a ladies growler...even if it is sideways...
I Know everything looks much better in a photograph. My bikes always did! If this is as good as first impressions suggest its a bargain!
Must be one of the best nick FZS 1000s around.
Downside is that it's only 6 inches long, so *might* require a spacer - not sure, never got a round to swapping it over...![[Image: S1000-RR-shock.jpg]](https://i.postimg.cc/cLsZzJ29/S1000-RR-shock.jpg)
