Hi all


Currently using the bike a lot for commuting. Yesterday on my ride home in the pouring rain I had to slam on the brakes fairly hard to avoid a car that had switched lanes as I was about to overtake him, not really an issue as I reacted and put on my brakes but as it was so wet and I have the upgraded FZS1000 caliper on the rear disc, I locked up the rear wheel and almost drifted sideways before the bike snapped back up right and facing the right way. As it did this there was this weird click noise from the rear of the bike, throughout my ride today every time I applied the rear brake with a little bit of force I can now this click or snap sound.


I put the bike on its centre stand and tried to see if maybe I snapped a wheel bearing but I don't think it's that.


Anyone got any ideas what could be causing the noise?


Thanks in advance

There's a few of these programmes on TV at the moment where they get cars/bikes do them up and flog 'em but this one I've just watched takes the biscuit,some bod with more money than sense gave this Goblin bunch a Fiat 500 and said he wanted it powered by an electric motor and sported up a bit,paint,bodywork a few trick bits etc.At the end of the programme he parted with £44,000 !!! yes £44,000 for a fuckin' Fiat500, can you believe it,what a twat,IMO anyway. :finger

If you look on the wiring diagram for the Fazer and for most bikes from what I can see the main power wire runs from the battery, through the main fuse then to the ignition switch, then from the ignition switch to the fuse box and from the fuse box it runs to all the other circuits through the various fuses. That means the ignition switch and the connectors and wiring to it have to take the full switched current for the whole bike. If you have a fault on that circuit like the common burnt connector going to the ignition caused by a poor connection in the connector or high resistance in the ignition switch from old age and wear and tear, the voltage to everything drops including the ignition coils so you would have weaker spark. So the question is why do they design it like that where the ignition switches all the current? Would it not make more sense if the ignition switched a relay and the relay powered the fuse box? That way the ignition switch only passes a tiny current or is there a reason why they use the ignition switch to switch the current and they don't use a relay?

So, deterioriating back, neck and knees causing problems. The normal solution would be to buy something more upright / ergonomic. Logical, but expensive. Decided I still loved the old girl but wanted a Tracer / Versys-like riding position.

• All handlebar cables sent off to the professionals and extended by four inches.
  
• Tracer 700 handlebars (nearly four inches higher than standard)
  
• Vstrom handguards
  
• Longer front brake cables (roughly three inches).
  
• Tracer clutch mount perch (allows LHS mirror to be fitted)
  
• Tracer mirrors with extensions. Before I could only work out there was a car behind me, now I can tell what make of vehicle it is - vast improvement!
  
• One inch lower footpegs
  

Hi all

I'm thinking of selling up and moving to a push bike. I know, I know. Sadly a change in work, together with climate change and waistline change mean it's the right move.
Any idea what a reasonable selling price would be for my 03 plate?
Brief high/low -lights:
+Used to commute for last 3 years and runs perfectly
+MOT'd last week
+new front tyre last week
+downpipes replaced ~2017
+battery replaced last year
+Givi rack + Maxia box (~50L)
+optional full givi pannier rack, but no other boxes
+only 30.5k miles

-front fairing cracked. Repair is solid but not too pretty.
-crash bungs are in 'used' condition and there are a few other scuffs and signs that it's been dropped.

Any advice gratefully received

Cheers

MODS - I'm planning to create a new post in 'for sale' once i've got an idea of price, but feel free to move this one if it doesn't belong here.

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Bought a FZS1000 with dead start circuitry. Long story so will shorten:
Found open circuit sidestand and neutral switches. Replaced but still no go. Tested all relevant loom wiring for continuity. All good. All other electrical items working perfectly - clocks, lights. rad fan, exup etc..

Turned attention to the starter cutoff relay. I had two of these as previous owner had replaced the original but didn't fix. Tested the diodes in both units. Two in each were closed circuit (0 Ohms) both polarities. Rather than buy another relay and blow that too I decided to open them up and take a look. The PCB tracks from the cathodes of both blown diodes in both units leading to the pinouts were cooked/open circuit and the common anode track to its pin had got hot too but not open circuit. Some how an over-current had occured.
Soldered in two uprated diodes and repaired the tracks. Plugged it in and all was well. Started perfectly and all the neut/clutch/stand switch interlocks worked as expected.
The only path I can see for an over current situation is for the blue/yellow - L/Y wire from the clutch switch to somehow have +12V on it then running to ground via the neutral (sky blue - Sb) and/or stand switch blue/black - L/B). As I never found the original, diode popping fault I will always worry that it will happen again. I always carry the repaired second relay in case.

I've attached a pic of the relevant bit of the circuit diagram to hopefully make it clearer what I am wittering on about.

Any ideas what caused this ? All thoughts gratefully received.
PS Love riding the bike. I can see why they have such a fan base.

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  FZS starter cut off relay .jpg (Size: 108.49 KB / Downloads: 91)

I have had all sorts of bikes ever since I was big enough to drive one. Bought this FZS1000, 2002 vintage, as a project. Was running perfectly but suddenly died on previous owner. He replaced all sorts of electrical bits and eventually took out the loom in desperation. Sadly the replacement loom he bought was the wrong one. He decided to sell it as a scrapper.

I bought it from him but changing circumstances meant I ignored it for 2 years. Now found the time to get it running (diodes in Starter cutoff). It's a lovely ride but not as nimble as the Monster. A hell of a lot quicker though ! Scary !!
I have joined this forum because I'm hoping someone can help get to the bottom of the original fault. Please take a look at my first post in Fazer Corner. Also I might be able to help someone else having problems with the electrics.

It is getting near that time. The bike is getting very near 24000miles, so will need the valve shims checked in a few months time.
I will not be doing the work my self.The mechanic who is doing the work says there is not much point putting back the AIS system and will obviously increase the price of the job.He has done the shim job many times he says and he usually just crimps the the pipes and thinks this is quick and easy .He has fitted the screws that need tapping first,  but thinks crimping is best.Where can I get a Ais removal kit from? 
Is crimping any good?Having looked at the site there is a lot of information and some one on this site  used to make a kit, but it was a few years ago.

Hi everyone, newbie here from London!

Hope you guys can give me some ideas how to fix my bike Fazer 600, mark 1, 2000 reg


Last year I cleaned my bike with the engine running (due to previous issues with electrics on other bikes) and the fuel was lower that I thought.  Two days later I went to take the bike to get a rear tyre and the bike struggled to start and barley ride able.  Managed to get back from the tyre shop and clean the carbs up enough to get it working enough to go on my trip to Germany, Ok at motorway speeds but struggled on the lower speeds.


When I got back I gave the carbs to my mate who took them apart.  Said the Sliders/needles were a bit loose and could do with new ones.  Official replacements from Yamaha are worth half the cost of the bike and unable to find any kits that contain the jets etc but found a decent set of replacement carbs on ebay.  My mate has taken bits from both set of carbs and make the best we could into one set this has been sonic cleaned before reassembly.


Fitted the carbs but the pilots were not set to factory setting, balanced the carbs and the bike sounded back to normal.  While test driving it showed there was a problem.  Around 4.5 to 5000 rpm the bike struggles with acceleration and seems to stutter.  When you eventually get over the 5000rpm marker the bike takes off again.  This only happens when the bike warms up and you slowly accelerate.


If the bike is cold or you accelerate hard from a standing still there is no issue.  Talked to a few people and they advised just to ride the bike for around 500miles for the carb bits to bed in.  This made sense to me but I know the pilots were out.  Compared to what it was when I first had the problem is was certainly worth putting up with for the time being.


Finally had 5 mins to myself last weekend and the pilots had been playing on my mind, took the carbs off as I have no adjuster tool and reset the pilots to 2 turns out.  Put an inline fuel filter on as well as a back up to the original fuel filer and I can see if there is any issues with the fuel.  Balanced the carbs, all sounded good rev'd through the ranges etc.


Took it out last night.  Again when cold its like it was like before, accelerates through the previous problem of the stutter, fast and slow.... then the bike warms up and the issue is still there, plus a new one. 
When stopped at traffic the revs have started sticking at 2000 rpm,  I play with the rev adjuster on the carbs and it settles down again but this kept happening a few times.


Lastly when on tick over the rev counter pusles and bobs up and down a little.  Idle rev's sett to the manual.  This never happened before


Any ideas what to do next?


As the issue seems to be when the engine warms up is it now something with the engine as the carbs seem fine when its cold and when being rev'd in the garage.


A further note, the book says to set the carbs between 230 to 250mm but when I have balanced them and my mate has balanced them they only go to 125mm.  I can't see how to get them any where close the service manual's recommendation.


Penny for your thoughts, Ive looked at several forum notes and not sure what to do next.


Cheers

Darren