Looking for offers.
Full Givi, Kappa set up including rack, panniers, inners, spare keys etc.
Ebay item no:


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153855647877


Not expecting that for them, pm me with any questions or offers....
Bike may also be for sale soon 17K and very tidy...
Cheers.

The engine in my Gen 1misses quite a lot when its raining hard. I think I need to cut the HT leads down and make a new joint. Am I right I need to unscrew the lead from the cap. cut 5mm or so off and refix

I don't think it can be much else, if I spray with WD45 before I leave the bike behaves much better.

Thanks

Hey you knowitalls
As i understand the gen2 is just about the same enjun as R1 2006? With different timing and cams.
That would mean same pistons and conn rods??
Just looking what is offered if it is so...
Have you been looking on increasing comp or going big bore?


Lemme know!


Regards
Mattias

Hi all,


I know a few FZS600 owners have been wondering about the possibility of the TFT Dash (that's currently available for the FZS1000) will ever be coming to FZS600, so good news is ahead in this area. The FZS600 seems the next most logical step of additional bikes to support as the stock clocks are physically identical to the FZS1000 (with some wiring and numbering differences).


Once this is available I'll be shipping the same TFT Dash for the 1000 (with software changes that will account for the differences on the FZS600). In addition there will be an adaptor plug in the box which will enable the FZS600 plug to connect into the TFT Dash.


Will keep you posted.


https://www.tftdashproject.co.uk

pritt patel being investigated for bullying.
Corbyn and Mcdonnell 'she should step down!!'
Bercow being investigated for bullying
Corbyn and Mcdonnell ' This man should be elevated to the house of lords!!'
:lol :lol :lol :lol

I'm pretty convinced my chain needs replacing, bit clattery when labouring (after adjusted to correct slack), got a couple of tight links that don't lay flat (even after plenty of cleaning and fresh lube) and I can feel a slight judder in time to chain rotation. It's done 22k and believe its the original.
Anyway looking a standard DID chain/sprocket kits I seem to see a mix of kits:
16/46 teeth, 530 chain (e.g. https://www.mandp.co.uk/products/yamaha-...kit-594874)
or
16/47 teeth, 520 chain (e.g.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-FZ-6-S...ets-16-47T)
Current chain just says "DID" "50V4" on the links.
What's the OEM spec? What spec should I replace with if I just want to keep it standard? I'm not after any increase in torque / economy or such like.

Thanks!

So, i dont get the fizzer until friday but have modded another airbox..... My thoughts about it was to not cut the velocity stack in the front. Put kedo filters in the front and two velocity stacks above the velocity stacks :-) (picture says it all)
The billet stacks are from italy...and they long for mid punch.



Other i got them to put a full black widow system on it. Been fiddling with a PCV and autotune here at home but had to get a CAN cable and terminator because some ebay sellers are effed! Got a healtech ES elim. AIS plates, 16T & DV8R have sent me some smaller secondary flies..... And i get the bike on friday *lol*


Saludos!

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As anyone who knows me knows, I hate troubleshooting electrical problems, so I'm appealing for help.   I’ve already hit the Search function which helped me with steps to investigate but a solution has eluded me so far.

Bike is a 2002 Gen 1, 53k miles.  Yesterday I started her up just to circulate fluids and make sure all was well before advertising her for sale.  Last time ridden was a couple of weeks ago and all was fine then.

On start-up, I’m 99% sure that the coolant fan came on as it usually does soon after starting.  Went off with gear selection and I then proceeded to hold the revs around 3k rpm and blip the throttle to get the motor up to temperature.  Usually when I do this I let the coolant get to around 90C and then turn off but this time I decided to let her run to check that the fan came on when the temp reached 98 - 99C.  It didn’t.  The Multigauge coolant temp continued to climb to 104C at which point the coolant overheat light came on - as it should - and I shut her down.

Today I started troubleshooting by applying 12v direct to the fan.  It works fine.

The fan fuse is good.

Applying 12v to the relay contacts I got a ‘click’ suggesting it’s working correctly.  I also substituted another relay and that made no difference to the fan operation. I’m calling the relay itself good.

Earthing the green/black terminal on the relay connector turned the fan on, suggesting the wiring from relay to the fan is OK. 

The temperature readings on the Multigauge were exactly as they’ve been since I fitted the gauge.  Coolant temp rose normally and the overtemp light came on as it should at an indicated 104C.  This suggests that the coolant temp sensor in the thermostat housing is also good.

The coolant overtemp light comes on briefly at ignition on as it should.

However, the fan no longer comes on soon after start with the revs held at 1500rpm plus and the coolant fan does not kick in when the temp reaches 98 - 98C.

I’m stumped at the moment and the only thing I haven’t checked yet is the combination unit in the speedo which should be activating the fan relay when the temp gets too high.  I believe it also has a timer function to run the fan at start-up.

Any ideas, experiences, hail Mary guesstimates would be much appreciated.

Mike

Michael Dunlop will be on a Duke for this years NW200 and the TT, riding a V4R Panigale for PBM(Paul Bird Motorsports). This is quite interesting as although they've stamped their authority on short circuit events, Dukes haven't in the past been famous for their longevity. They have always got a big cheer when finishing endurance races.

Interesting, particularly about having tyres that are too good for your riding. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01YlwusCSlE