Ran the bike on the low fuel light for about 10 miles today and then filled up expecting to put a lot in, but only squeezed in 19 litres.
Which suggests 3 litres left which given i had ridden 275 miles meant i had another 50 odd miles which means i was getting well over 300 miles to a tank.
Is the fuel gauge that inaccurate?
What do you think?
Nick

My names Smudger and i own a modded 2002 FZS 600,lookin to do more work on the bike soon.Suspension front end etc,so hello all and look forward to chatting and gettin advice and opinions off you all.

Hi all,


New to the forum but been reading for a while and impressed with the knowledge out there.


So having studies the forum for a while, I've made several mods so far - jack-up kit, braided lines, Ivans soon.... Was going to do an R6 shock upgrade but read about the BMW S1000RR conversion and one was on ebay for £80, so bought that.


All fitted OK after drilling washers etc., but what I was surprised about was that I couldn't get the appropriate sag...too saggy even with the preload wound right up. I measured 20-25mm of unladen sag with that increasing to about 45mm with me sitting on it. Not good. That's with the STD dog bones as I like it a bit higher. I took off the shorter dog bones as it was so high with the BMW shock that the rear wheel touched the ground with the centrestand down!


What's confusing me is that on this and other forums the BMW spring is supposed to be firmer than the Yamaha one, but I managed to get the STD shock to the right pre-load no bother. So that would indicate that the BMW spring is actually softer??


Took it for a spin and it felt so much better than STD, especially the damping. Any thoughts appreciated. Thinking of getting an uprated (BMW) spring from Ktech for £85 fitted.


I'm around 14stone in all my gear.


Rich

Has anyone got a Fazer 600 Foxeye headlight/fairing mounting bracket they want to sell?Thanks in advance for any replies.

Testing

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[size=1.35em]Triumph Trident 900 1992, 52k, Triumph Nuclear Red, 6 months t&t, twin scorpion pipes with removable baffles. Starter clutch modified now starts on the button first time every time. all consumables good £850

... I also have all spare bodywork in various colours, tank cover, lower bars, plus loads spares if you wanted it all then 950 takes the lot[/size]

***PS I know that its pink, I have stated the colour that triumph have painted it as its not a standard colour for the trident/trophy/sprint range of this age, Please refrain from making stupid comments about the colour***

I've just come back for my garage after another exasperating attempt to do something about the play in my linkage bearings. Like most other people here I'm ok about having a few millimeters of play when I lift up the rear wheel, but mine had got decidedly worse than that, so I bought a set of new needle races and seals and replaced the lot (and swing arm bearings) That was last week and to my annoyance after I 'd torqued everything up the play was no different at all (i tried torqueing up with machine on centrestand and on sidestand too)
Just now I fitted another linkage complete with bearings that I got off ebay for £30 (from a machine that was 'low mileage') and it's got slightly less play in it but still not really acceptable. I think my understanding mot chappie is not going to be so lenient on me when he checks the bearing play next time.
I'm wondering now if anyone has any thoughts about having a batch of new sleeves made up as it seems the sleeves are the cause of this problem. I think someone even mentioned once that the standard sleeves are not tight enough in the races to start with so having 'proper' ones made might be a very good idea. If you look at the linkage when you move the wheel up and down you'll see that the long sleeve pivot at the bottom is the one that shows wear and I'm not surprised as it has to endure a heavy load whilst the other bearings just rotate. If costs for a new set of sleeves were a little high then perhaps having just the long sleeve made would be useful.
As the Gen 1s get older many more of us are going to run into this problem with sleeves wearing out. If you've never checked the play in yours you might be a little surprised when you do. Keep an eye on it.

Does anyone know if a tail tidy is available for the gen 1? had a quick search and couldn't see much,


cheers Dave

hi all!


Summary:  My bike's due for its 24000 mile service - it'll be the first service since i've had it - and I want to do it myself with someone's help, but I have neither the tools nor experience, only the enthusiasm and interest.


I have a [color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]May 2003 Yamaha FZS600 - bought April 2012 (6 months ago) to commute. Bought at 20000, now it's 24500.[/color]


It needs its 24000 mile service which my local yamaha reseller says is the big one.


In my first (introductory) posting on this site I briefly mentioned servicing and how I'd be interested in doing it myself.


But I'm a total noob and most definitely don't have the tools nor experience - only the interest and enthusiasm.
(tools - I just have a basic socket, spanner and allen key set - may be enough but don't have e.g. universal joint if required, not long extensions if required, and certainly don't have a torque wrench - I'd be happy to buy these though)


If you're interested in helping me out?  I could come to you or you could come to me (I have a garage we could work in)


Ideally next Sat or Sun (20/21oct) as I'd want my kids to watch too (which means ideally you'd need to come to Woking)


Send me a private message.


The alternative is I just book it in to my local yamaha dealer (just around the corner from me) and ask if I can watch them:  but that's expensive and money's an issue.  Cheaper than a replacement bike if my engine fails though during my commute though...


Darren

Ok guys,


At the risk of making myself look like a complete fool.............


Recently bought a Gen 1 Thou from another forum member (Kitty). The bike had been laid up for best part of a couple of years and therefore the front calipers were binding on. I had good pressure at the lever but they were just binding a little after release.


So, yesterday, I took them both off, took the pads out etc and gave them a bit of a clean up. Unfortunately, through a lack of foresight, whilst working on one caliper, I managed to pop out one of the pistons. I gave it a quick clean and managed to get it back in again without too much ado. I finished off by trying to bleed the brakes up again.


Unfortunately, I can now not get any lever pressure and am a bit stuck.


When trying to bleed it up, I was getting fluid coming through the bleed nipples but not with any great pressure. I can see no signs of leakage anywhere and I have been topping up the fluid reservoir. I've taken the offending caliper off again and had another good look but again, no signs of any fluid seepage from where I've replaced the piston.


I'm thinking that maybe the master cylinder seals may have gone, but cant undertand how that would have happened when all i've done is a quick clean / freeing up of the pistons / calipers. I also dont want to shell out on a new m/c seal kit if its not that causing the problem.


Have I missed something blindingly obvious here??? By the way, the bike has braided hoses so I dont think its those that have perished.


Any advice appreciated.


SkidT