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Show Off Your Ride and Ea...
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For sale - FZS600
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Hole in my fuel tank
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09-05-26, 11:54 AM
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FZS600S 02/03 Front fairi...
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what did you do with your...
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For sale FJR1300 ultimate...
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Whoever posts last is bes...
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Front Oil Pipe.
Forum: FZS600 Fazer
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03-05-26, 11:04 PM
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What did you do with what...
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For Sale 2004 Fazer 1000 ...
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| Smartphoc-U |
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Posted by: DryRob - 02-01-13, 04:21 PM - Forum: General
- Replies (4)
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I've just got myself into the modern age with a smartphone, what do I need to do to access FOC-U on it easily?
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| Changing the end can |
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Posted by: xlewisbdx - 02-01-13, 04:07 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (23)
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Hey Guys!
Ok So I have just seen a original end can for sale on ebay and wanted to know how would I put it back on my bike?
I currently have a Delkevic on there but I think it is taking power away from me because I have my restrictors in anyway, I don't think it is helping.
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| Hard luggage options for fzs 600 |
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Posted by: cnw180 - 02-01-13, 09:12 AM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (5)
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Hi All,
Does anyone know if you can get hard panniers for the fazer. Having trouble finding any. Top box's not really a problem to find. You'd think with such a popular bike there would be lots of options!!
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| New to FOC-U |
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Posted by: Daithi - 02-01-13, 01:23 AM - Forum: Introduction
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Hi Everybody, Just signed up tonight and love the site. Was a member of the USA FZ1 owners Assoc for many years having lived in Boston, Mass for 2 decades before retiring to my Home in Dublin last summer. Currently own a `03 yellow Thou and a `02 Blue FZ 600. I also own a FJ1200, `86 vintage and all original 19k mls bike which I brought back from the US last year along with my trusty Kawa ZRX1200. Love `em all !!! Have been riding for 40 plus years and have mostly favored yammies, though I do have a soft spot for Kawas. Had a nice `03 Fazer 1000 in Kenny Roberts factory colors in the States which I wish I had not sold !!! Look forward to visiting the site regularly and interacting with members whilst learning a few things along the way. Its nice to be home again and able to follow closely all the road racing in Ireland along with track meets not to mention BSB, my best liked series of all. Nice to see one of my favourite riders take the championshion last year, thats one up for the Geezers !!!! :lol Daithi
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| Installing Power Commander III on an FZ6 |
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Posted by: Grahamm - 01-01-13, 11:52 PM - Forum: FZ6 / FZ6 Fazer
- Replies (16)
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I've put this in here as it's more relevant to this area...
(01-01-13, 10:51 PM)dolau link Wrote: How did the power commander installation go? Did you have it dyno'd afterwards or did it work out of the box?
Ok, I bought the Power Commander second hand from expatmanxman (see a few posts down). I only got the unit but it's easy enough to download the mapping software and fitting instructions from the Dynojet site.
Fitting it turned out to be a bit of a palaver, for various reasons...
1) As I don't have a laptop I first had to find a way to install the map onto the unit from my desktop. You can do that by connecting it to the PC with a USB cable, but you also need a 9V battery and connector to power the unit. Fortunately I had both and managed to bodge a connection so I could load the map before I took the unit down to my shed where I keep the bike.
2) I was a bit puzzled at the completely different settings on the map I downloaded which said "Stock FZ6" and the one on the unit which said the same, then I re-read the previous thread and the instructions and I realised that the stock map which was on the unit when I'd bought it had been modified, but not the comments, so I put the Stock FZ6 map I'd downloaded onto it instead.
3) Fitting the unit turned out to be a major PITA! You're supposed to put it under the seat, but where they suggested it went is, on my bike, taken up with the alarm, fortunately I found that by taking everything out (tools, pliers for pulling nails out of tyre, spare headlamp bulb etc) there was just enough room to fit the unit and get everything back in place (just!!)
You also have to lift the tank (*why* don't Yamaha include a prop for it?!) fortunately I remembered that if you undo and remove the pivot bolt at the seat end of the tank and then undo the securing bolts at the front you can slide it back and then lift it without needing to remove the inner fairings too.
4) The next part, actually connecting it, is a serious fiddle!
You need to run the wires from the unit under the tank to a pair of connectors behind the throttle bodies through a narrow gap which took a lot of finessing to get all the bits through and then you need to actually identify and get *at* the connectors which are buried amongst lots of other wires in the loom.
There was about half an hour of looking, cursing, looking again, pushing things around, cursing, examining connectors, more cursing, trying to undo connectors, re-examining connectors and comparing them with the ones on the unit, finally figuring out how to get it hooked up and then *more* cursing as you try to get everything back in place!!
Incidentally I found it was easier if I removed the left side rear fairing that covers the fuses etc as it made it easier to see what I was doing and gave better access.
5) You then need to connect a wire to the negative side of the battery, but there are already two connectors on that on mine (Optimate and Heated Gloves) so I wasn't sure if another one would stop the battery bolt from securing properly, however I then found that I couldn't even *undo* the bolt as it was done up incredibly tightly and when I put more pressure on it, the metal started to strip.
Fortunately a few minutes with a multi-meter revealed that the bolt that secures the front of the tank would also give a negative connection, so I connected the wire to that instead 
6) At this point I decided it would be better to check that it would actually work before I put everything back in place, so, with fingers crossed I pressed the starter and, fortunately, it fired up!
7) There was one slight problem when I put the tank back down because I must have kinked the fuel hose as I tried running it again and it started and then died, but a quick lift back up and moving things around solved the problem.
Then, finally, it was just a matter of putting everything back in place and after a spin around the block for a final check (I didn't want it dying on me out on the M271!), I took it out for a very enjoyable ride up the A32, along the Morestead Road and back along the A272 before returning on the A32 again.
Quote:Is there a setting that stops the annoying jump off a closed throttle? :eek
Well, with it installed and the map mentioned above, I've certainly not noticed that which is another plus point!
What I mostly noticed was that there wasn't that awful hole in the power curve around 5-6000 RPM, after a little experimentation I could go for an overtake in fourth gear and know that the power was going to come in smoothly rather than it bog down until the revs got over 6k and *then* pull, meaning I didn't have to sit in third gear on A Roads with the revs up waiting for an overtake chance or keep flicking up and down the gears any time I wanted to pass someone.
Frankly I consider it a very nice addition to the bike, the power is much more accessible and controllable and there's a bit more of it too 
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| R6 Shock Shock ! |
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Posted by: pilgrim - 01-01-13, 11:12 PM - Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Replies (8)
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Had mine on for about 18 months now, and although it is a vast improvement over standard, I've always thought it could be a bit better if I fettled it a bit more. I'm currently running the standard settings of 15 clicks out (out of 20) for rebound, 3 full turns out (out of 4) on the high speed compression damping nut and 16 clicks out (out of 20) on the low speed comression damping screw.
After reading the thread about the S1000 shock conversion, I had a look at the R6 owners manual to see what the standard settings were, and this caught my eye:
NOTE
Although the total number of clicks or turns of a damping force adjusting mechanism may not exactly match the specifications listed due to small differences in production,the actual number of clicks or turns always represents the entire adjustment range. To obtain a precise adjustment, it would be advisable to check the number of clicks or turns of each damping force adjusting mechanism and to modify the specifications as necessary.
So I decided to check mine, just to see if they might be out. I dialled everything all the way in, the out again and this is what i found:
High speed comp nut: 4 and a quarter turns to fully out. ( close enough )
Low speed comp screw: 35 clicks to fully out :eek
Rebound screw: 28 clicks to fully out :eek
So, taking into account what the note above says, and that the standard settings are all technically 3/4 of the way through the range, I've made some adjustments
High speed comp left at 3 turns out
Low speed comp now set at 25 clicks out ( of 35 )
Rebound set at 21 clicks out ( out of 28 )
A bounce test has it feeling softer already, but cant test ride it until tomorrow on my 6 mile round trip to work.
Who knows, I might have just arsed it up completely, but its easy enough to put it back to where it was. Might have to get around to fettling it properly now anyway :lol
Thoughts, anyone? Has this been discussed before and I've missed it? Or was it something that everyone knew anyway, except me? :o
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| Who would have thought, lights again |
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Posted by: Jsuddaby - 01-01-13, 03:04 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (1)
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Hi I updated my lights on my fzs 600 98 yesterday to Philips night breakers only to find that my near side light has been exchanged for a h4 so I have h4 on both sides. Now the bulb on that side that I just replaced was a 35w and the night breaker is 55w and it only comes on as full beam which I think I hadn't noticed due to the lower wattage of the other bulb. Does anyone else have this and or know if it will put too much load on the battery and wether there is something I can do to make dip and full work properly. Oh last but not least is it legal?
Cheers
Edit: sorry they are Philips xtreme vision not night breakers
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