Wilbers Ecoline shock for sale. Bought new and fitted by Revs Racing in November 2012. Date of manufacture is 22/10/2012. Removed in March 2013 and has done around 2000 miles only. Comes with all paperwork incl instructions, shock specs and a 5yr warranty of which 4 1/2 years remain. Its practically spotless and reeks of quality compared to the standard unit.

It has a 150n/mm weight spring installed. This is a tad stronger than the oem shock which I believe has a 144n/mm spring fitted as standard. It was fitted to suit a 70kg rider + occasional (25%) 70kg pillion + occasional topbox & hard panniers. Therefore even if you're heavier than me, if you don't take luggage or pillion as often as I do, it should still be a good match - and there is of course preload adjustment. I now ride with luggage much more frequently so unfortunately I really need a different model with a remote preload adjuster to cope with such varying loads hence the sale.

If you need a different spring, I'm told you can part exchange through Revs Racing or you could fit a Faulkner's spring which cost £30 odd - Demon Tweeks sell them. I understand the internal valving would not need to be changed unless you're close to double my weight.

Price is £250 + p&p. Rare opportunity to get a quality shock second hand as most folk hang on to them! The quality of these shocks are amazing (far above Hagon imo) and the ride they provide are far superior to the oem shock - even a freshly refurbished one as I can confirm from first hand experience.

PM for more details.

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Hi All

Need some advice please, my fazer has developed a strange display fault that I am not sure where to start looking for.
Basically if the bike is stood idling with the either with the lights on or off and the flasher / pass button is pressed the whole
display shuts down then comes back on, I first noticed this when I was waiting to make a right turn and indicated for a car to pull out.
as soon as I turned the throttle though the display came back on, this only happens when the flash/pass button is pressed.

Could this be an earth fault? if so where do I start looking or could this be a switch fault developing as the bike has been on the road
all winter.

Cheers

Stu

Jack Reacher. Not a bad film but a pale shadow/imitation of any of Lee Child's absolutely brilliant, awesome and fantastic books (albeit getting repetitive but still beautifully written), completely losing the insight and narrative. Definitely worth watching in spite of the diminutive church of Scientology follower Tom Cruise and highly involving for the first 2/3 (possibly 4/5) of the film with a good musical score too. A solid 7/10.

I had said that I'd never watch it due to the fact that Tom Cruise is about as polar opposite of the Jack Reacher character as possible, but I did.  Lee Childs summed it up I guess "Obviously, Tom Cruise doesn't match the physical description of Reacher in the books... but the movie is not going to match the book anyway. More than that though, which actor does match Reacher physically?"

I follow Steve Parish on Twitter and today he posted a photo of him picking up his brand new white FZ1S. I wonder if he will join the forum 

I'm organising a ride-out to Ryka's Cafe (Box Hill) leaving from Wickham Square at 10am on Saturday the 4th of May, possibly along with various people from the Hampshire Bikers and South Coast Motorbike society.

The route would be up the A32 (possibly with a quick stop at Loomies to pick up anyone who wants to start from there) then along the A272 to Midhurst, up the A29 and A24 to Ryka's.

From there, we'd go up Zig-Zag Road, back down to the A24 and A29 before turning off onto the B2126 and B2127 to reach the A286, heading down to Midhurst again to take the A272 back to Loomies.

The total distance would be around 130 miles and we'd finish around 3pm (allowing an hour for eating). There will be a fuel stop after Ryka's for anyone who needs it.

Note that I'll be leading this in a fairly progressive way (ie getting on with it, making full use of national speed limits and taking overtakes when safe and possible), so please ensure that you're comfortable with this. (But also note that I will *not* be thrashing, blatting or hooning!)

Depending on numbers, I may also be using the Marker System (Second Man Drop-off), so if anyone's not familiar with that, please say and I'll post a couple of links explaining how it works.

If you're interested, post here...

The beast lives. new wheels, screen and I fit the BIG tank tomorrow. 

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Today I tried to change the front and rear brake pads on my 2001 Fazer 600 - what a palaver, the new brake pads ( pyramid parts pp252 front and pp104 rear ) for the front seemed to be the wrong shape i.e. flat on top and curved underneath which is the opposite of the pads that were in it and the pyramid ones didnt seem to fit in the caliper. The rear ones seemed to fit but they were too thick to get the disc in , I tried to push the pistons back but they didnt seem to move much ( looking at the rear caliper without the pads in from the back to front direction, the left hand piston sticks out about an 1/4 inch and the right sticks about 1/2 inch and will not move any further ) I tried taking the reservoir cap off and taking out some fluid but nothing seemed to help, could any one out there please enlighten me,should the rear pistons both stick out to different lengths or should the distance be similar,thanks in advance for any help,steve

Anyone got a HJC R-PHA10? Just wondering how people had got on with them?

The Shoei XR1100 that I wanted just doesn't fit right.

I've tried numerous other brands on but the HJC seems to fit best (so probably a no brainer really!)

Thing is it only gets a 3 star rating on the SHARP website and I'd always thought they were a budget brand. Having said that Lorenzo and Spies race in them.

Following another rider on the way home (a BMW 1150G), he decided who was gonna try and have the Fazer...

Anyway long story short at the last two sets of lights before my village, we would pull away from the lights hard. And in an effort to keep the front end down I slipped the clutch, it was at this point where I could here a squeeling that would come and go as I feathered the clutch and then disappear half way through the rev range in 1st.

This is my forth FZS1000 and I have never had any of them make a squeeling/sqeeking noise from the clutch like I heard this evening. Has anyone ever had/heard of this before or is it possible I was actually partially spinning the rear wheel as I pulled away from the lights. The tyres on the bike atm are Conti motions, (I got em cheap (£130) and the the bike only gets ridden in the dry). When I got home I applied both brakes and taking the revs to 4k I tried to get the clutch to squeel, but not a sausage.

I will test the pull away for the rest of the week to try and see where its coming from, but any suggestions welcome.

Just a quick thanks to everyone who helped me out on my brake topic.


Found out what the problem was with the squeaking/crunching. Turns out my wheel bearing and completely collapsed. Changed them both and added new dust seals and it rides a treat now


The reason I didn't notice it was the bearing is because I was have problems with the breaks as well so I thought it was all the same thing. Anyway brakes have been bled and now are super duper!


Again thanks for the help