Hey guys,

Has anyone/does anyone own both the FZS600 and the FZS1000, and fancies giving a bit of a comparison between the two? I've just sold my FZS1000, and was considering the 600 as its much cheaper to insure (which for me at 21 is a big deal), the main thing stopping me though is that I'm worried I'll miss the grunt of the 1000?
It's been quite a long time since I had a 600 to be honest, last couple years have been on a 900 ninja and then the 1000, both of which even when loaded up with luggage and a pillion would take off like a scalded cat by twisting the throttle (the FZS at lower revs, the ninja faster up top).
THe only 600 I had before that for a couple years was a hornet 6, which was a proper revvy bugger. Was okay by myself, but with a pillion and luggage I did feel it struggled a bit somewhat?

Well guys, my lovely FZS 1000 was driven away by a lovely fella from Leicester, which means I can now look at getting another bike!

So, what have you got?

Looking at either another FZS1000 (older/higher milage to get the price down) or an FZS600 (or a CBR600F if anyone happens to have one). If it is a 600, I think I want a foxeye, mostly for the better headlights but the bigger tank really won't go amiss with the riding I do.

So, what have y'all got?

Wondering if anyone had any experience with fitting other wheels to the Fzs. I am doing an R1 Usd font end conversion (waiting for the forks to be delivered), so the front is no problem.
I was going to fit a thunderace rear wheel for the 180 tire option, But would an R1 rear wheel fit/line up? (with the right bearing for the spindle ect) 98 boxeye and '98 r1 wheel.


The reason  ask, instead of just doing the thunderace wheel is. I don't have the R1 front wheel yet, and most decent ones on ebay are in pairs.


Cheers,
Tom

EDIT: Anybody know if the disc's of the Fazer front wheel will fit the R1 rim?

Hi Name is Lew , looking at coming back to a Fazer 600 after 5 years away
I have a test ride booked for next week on what has to be the last new FZ 600 S2 naked bike ABS model.
The bike is brand new all be it a 2010 model suspect it has been unloved because of the colour black and yellow.
My current bike is a 2011 Kawasaki Z1000SX , love the bike to bits but as I live in Spain now I do not need the 140BHP it packs. It is getting a bit heavy for me now as I am no spring chicken I am 64 and have dodgy knees so need a lighter bike and the baby FZ 600 will do nicely.
looking forward to joining in on the forum and up for a bit of banter.
Lew

Did my first ever chain and sprocket change today on my 2000 FZS 600 using an open ended chain.


Purchased a DID chain and sprocket kit from ebay for £96 and this tool for £24 which was fantastic;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380437276686


For those that have not carried out the task themselves I would like to say it was an easy and straight forward job if you have the correct tools and was cheaper and more satisfying than taking it to the garage.


However, I did make some mistakes which I would like to share with you so you do not make the same ones.

Mistakes I made
Firstly I removed the chain before loosening the front sprocket so then had to reattach the chain to be able to do this.
Secondly I felt sure that I had the 32mm socket needed for the front sprocket.....I didnt and had to take a trip to HELLfords to get one.
Thirdly I should have worn rubber gloves as it was a mucky as hell task.


Tips
*Dont make the above mistakes.
*Use your Haynes manual.
*I was gobsmacked by the sheer amount of crud that collects under the cover of the front sprocket, so even if you are not due a chain/sprocket      change I would advise removal and cleaning of this cover every month. 5 minute job.
* Front sprocket nut is seriously tight. Use a nice long bar and long reach 32mm socket. With bike on side stand sit on it, apply front and rear brake and use left hand to loosen the nut. It is damn tight. You could get someone to sit on the bike as said, thus enabling you to use both hands.
* I removed the old endless chain by using an angle grinder to remove the head of one rivet and then used the tool to push out the rivet.
*Endless chains (arguably better as arguably no weak spots) require removal of swing arm. Big job though.


I have learned from my mistakes and will not be making them again. In the future this will be a 30-40 minute task.


Safe riding guys. 

Really a question for those with a raised rear end, whether by using shorter links/jack up kits or longer shocks. Have any of you noticed a weave at high speed? And how much have you raised by?

I have a longer shock, about 5mm longer which I think equals about 25mm at the seat, and get noticeable instability at approx 70 to 80mph even when set-up with less preload to get more sag.

I know there are a lot variables such as rider weight, aerodynamics etc but just wondered what people's experiences were 

Just put it on eBay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221234624797?s...1586.l2649

We had our first tumble on thursday. Luckily we were doing bugger all mph and secondly the pannier took the impact and we gently rolled onto the crash bung.
Smooth italian cobbles and rain do not good bedfellows make!
Spent friday pm in the clinica occulatisti as swmbo has got a bout of viral eye gunge.

been trying for 15 mins or so to move the rear suspension on my fzs600 but i can't get it to budge.
been hanging off the "spanner" like a monkey and it won't move.
is there an easy way please ?
at the moment it is on the 3rd groove from the tallest end and i want to move it down a notch or two.
thanks