Evening all.
Ill try and keep this short and please forgive my not knowing the correct names of some parts.


*Noticed rear brake not doing alot, pistons have seized.
*Pads need changing desperately.
*One of the pins that holds the brake pads in place will not shift and Im ashamed to say that I have rounded off the head.

As a result of all of the above I would like to replace the caliper.


I read a post on here somewhere saying that there are other Yamaha rear calipers that will fit with minimal modifications.


What I would like is a list of exactly what I need to purchase to achieve this.


Many thanks guys, look forward to your replies. 

Hi all I have a fazer 98 which is my pride and joy and love spending money on it but now running out of ideas what to do next what's done so far..,.

Stage 2 dyno jet
K&n air and oil filter
Bos titanium end can
4 into 1 stainless down pipes
Full size belly pan
Heavy duty clutch plates and springs
Projection components 4 way jack up bones
Iridium plugs
Smoked double bubble screen
Smoked headlight protectors
Fork and swing arm crash bungs
Titanium swing arm plugs
Alloy screen bolts
Gel heated custom seat
Chrome luggage rack with sissy bar
Acumen digital gear indicator with volt meter
Full set stainless engine bolts
Up rated front and rear sprockets 49rear 16 front
Jt heavy duty x-ring gold chain
Wheel stripes
Led daytime running lights
Chrome radiator cover with fazer logo
Fender extenda
Carbon rear hugger
Hyper pro up rated front springs..
Titanium yoke nut
Full set braided good ridge brake hoses racing at front


So now running out of ideas what to do next. Any suggestions??

Just been looking at how to fit some new Oxford luggage I've got. (RT60 & RT30 tailpacks) The idea is that you use Velcro straps to attach to the seat, and straps with double-D rings to tighten everything down. Well, I've gotta say it, I don't like them. I don't particularly trust the D-rings to stay tight when holding down the bulk and weight of my camping kit. The under-seat strap has to be velcroed very loosely or else the seat won't click locked. The larger of the two packs goes on first, and then you're supposed to be able to strap the smaller one on top. However, there are less attachment points on the bags than with the older style stuff. But I think I'll be cargo-netting and bungee-ing everything on in my usual, perhaps Heath Robinson, but much more secure way. Disappointing.    (but goes to show that I'm not overly biased towards the company I work for  :\ ). 

140 miles of back-roads in Beds and Northants.
I think my tyres are melting, I know I am. 

What are those funny red and white trees with numbers like 40 etc that seem to be growing wild alongside some of my old fav roads.  Made me review my policy on speeding  :evil

Hi all,
Took bike out for a run today and started to notice a touch more vibration in the bars than normal. They have always 'vibed' a bit at around 4000 revs or 60ish in top but today I felt there was nore than before BUT only on the throttle side. I wasn't gripping it any harder than normal in fact I gripped the left one hard to see if I could feel anything there but no. It gave me the beginnings of pins and needles.
Any ideas why one side could vibe more than the other  (and the bars are not broken!!)
and how I can remedy the situation???

Cheers
Tommo

Anyone going to this, really good day out and only £5. Had over 14000 turn up last year.


http://www.bfom.co.uk/

I bought an aftermarket clutch cable on e-bay made by HI-LEX, which claims to be made "under license".
It fitted perfectly and felt much better then the original which has started to fray near the lever. I took it for a test ride and was lucky I didn't go far. It quickly felt loose and the more I adjusted it, the looser it got. I was fortunate to get within a mile of home before it failed completely. There is a manufacturing defect which means there is no crimp in the liner stopping it from sliding up the metal elbow. The only thing there is a tiny spur of metal where the end of the liner has been bent out. It works fine until the cable warms up and experiences vibration, at which time that spur slips into the mouth of the elbow and liner follows it. The harder you pull the clutch, the more the liner slides up the elbow, shortening the sleeve and increasing the slack in the cable. 
The pictures show what I mean.
I got lucky, you have been warned. Be careful what you buy. 

In the name of research (and because I really don't want to pay £60 for the Yamaha part, I have ordered a replacement from Wemoto they claim is made by 'Slinky-Glide'. I will let you know how I get on.

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Folks my year 2000 boxeye came fitted with a lovely stainless 4-1 system and has a viper can with link pipe fitted too.

I am finding the viper can too loud for me (even with the baffle in) and would prefer a stock can for the quiet life

My question is will a standard can fit on the 4-1 pipe? and if yes, does anyone have a standard can for sale?

I have no idea what make the 4-1 system is.

Any help or suggestion appreciated.

Thanks Gary

Two brilliant shows coming up this month, well worth a visit.
Duxford Flying Legends Air Show - biggest warbirds meet in Europe, Spitfires, Hurricanes, Mustangs, B17s etc etc etc, all flying, static displays and of course the museum. Worth every penny! 13/14 July.
Beltring military vehicle show in Kent - tanks, jeeps, APCs and various militaria, displays and battle simulations - another good one. 17/21 July.

Where the fuck can you get a sensible quote for car insurance for younger drivers? My daughter has just passed her test and is 18 1/2 years old. No Accidents, no convictions, car garaged at night.


Looked at a £1000, old Ford Ka £4500 a year insurance. A 10 year old £1300 Toyota Corolla Auto £10,000 insurance and as my dad used to work a Fords and gets a good discount I thought I would look at a new Fiesta £52,227.29 a year  :eek .


I have tried all the online comparison sites plus a few others.


Are most young drivers uninsured because it costs nearly the same to put her on as a named driver?