Hi Guys, contrary to my handle, this is my second fzs 600 and I'm having a bit of an issue with the cooling system, the problem is, as the bike runs and warms up, it gets to temperature rather quickly, between 8 and ten minutes at idle, the fan will kick on to cool but never goes off. Even on a ride once the fan comes on to cool the water it will not switch off.
I've done a few things to troubleshoot, drained and refilled the system, bled it through thoroughly, I have changed the water pump, which now is definitely working as I can see it pushing the water around with revs at the radiator with the cap off, I have had the thermostat out and tested and is opening and closing as it should, next thing I am going to check is remove and inspect the rad to see if this is blocked at all... But after that I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to check next, any help or direction as to what/where to look next would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Chaps, getting to helmet replacement time, currently using a Caberg flip up, which I find a tad noisy at times.
I have looked at a couple of lids, namely a Roof V8, a Shark and a Schuberth C3.
Looking at staying with flip fronts - they are so handy.
Anyone got any thoughts or input?
Hi Carried out this mod using early 2009 shock (bronze fork) but instead of drilling both mounts to 12mm, I followed another method spotted elsewhere which retains 10mm bolts using custom bearing sleeves, OD 12mm ID 10MM, fitted to Fazer mount points. 150mm dog bones fitted to return rear to OEM height. I fitted 110NM Ktech spring to shock, set Compression adjusters to BMW "Comfort" positions and Rebound to 7, so far. At same time fitted R6 5EB forks, resprung also. Bike handles great just harsh over sharp bumps. Came back after latest run found what feels like top mount worn, lifted rear found a lot of play, I now have correct spacers for top mount to fit but it may well be BMW top shock mount may be extremely worn - if necessary how do you remove the top bushes, any help would be much appreciated?
Always been a big Scott Redding fan and he came up with the goods this weekend,I know it's early doors but I would love him to lift the WSB title this year and get back into Moto GP where IMO he belongs.I hope I haven't spoiled it for anyone by mentioning the results but if I have tough shit. :lol
As many of you are aware, the moderators dont get a lot of time to spare to keep an eye on what is being posted here so we have asked for others to volunteer. We have one confirmed so far and another one/two in the pipeline but if you think you have time to help, put your name forward to me. In the mean time, welcome to the mod team b1k3rdude.
These calipers are fitted to fitted to a lot of Yamaha motorcycles including all the Fazer series. They are easy to work on and are consider one of the best brake calipers types out there. What we have here is a set of calipers that I removed off my reticently sold FZS1000, due to the tops of the pistons having a lot of corrosion. The plan was to sell them as is but then a set of used stainless pistons came up for sale on the forum, and then this servicing guide was born. What I plan to show in photos is each step in the very simple process of doing a full service on a set of brake calipers. Stripping, cleaning, greasing and reassembly.
[size=1.35em]Remove the pistons and seals[/size]
• I starting by all the pistons with my piston removable tool. Said tool is a Sealy caliper tool I modified by filling down the tips of the arms to allow the tips/head to clear the caliper body.
• Then using a blunt/bent flat-head jewelers screwdriver and brake cleaner, I removed all the seals and soaked them in brake cleaner.• I also remove the bleed nipples as cleaning fluid and water will get into the calipers and will need to drain etc.
[size=1.35em]Cleaning the pistons[/size]
• All pistons come with a chrome coating that you really don't want to damage, so avoid using abrasives if at possible. But if you must nothing harsher than 2000 grit emery paper, but you only get to do this so many times before you abrade away the thin chrome coating.
• Using a small brass brush I removed as much of the crud and corrosion as I could. I found using the piston to hold the pistons, made this job much easier.
• Then if the corrosion is bad enough, you can polish the pistons with a bench grinder or Dremel with a polishing mop/head. In my case the pistons had lost thier chrome coating on the tops so I didnt go any further with them.
[size=1.35em]Cleaning the calipers[/size]
• I starting by removing all the seals and soaking them in brake cleaner.• I using a combination of as stiff nylon brush blunt & the jewelers screwdriver I cleaned out the seal grooves. Flushing out with brake cleaner.
• I then sprayed the calipers with motorcycle de-greaser/cleaner, scrubbing them with an old toothbrush.• I then sprayed the calipers with a mixture of green soap and water, again scrubbing with the toothbrush.• I then rinsed the calipers in hot water and left them to thoroughly dry.• Once they were dry I then applied a coating of ACF50 with a small painters brush and wiped off the excess with an rag.
[size=1.35em]Grease and install the seals[/size]
• I smeared a thin coating of Red Rubber grease on all the break/dust seals, taking care to feel/check for any nicks, damage or wear.• Then using my index finger I located and held each seal into its respective groove, and then used the index and middle finger to gently push down on the highest point of the seal sticking up allowing the seal to auto-locate itself into the seal.• I did the same thing for the dust seals, with some of these needing a little finagling to get them to seat.
[size=1.35em]Grease and install the pistons[/size]
• I smeared a thin coating of Red Rubber grease on all the pistons. • Then holding the caliper in my hand and using my thumb & index finger to align the piston/s, I then used the index finger & thumb on my other hand to gently align and push them in.
[size=1.35em]Grease and install the caliper pins[/size]
• I smeared a coating of copper-ease on the pins and installed them along with the r-clips and pad spring/s
[size=1.35em]Other[/size]
In the winter when there is more shit in the roads, I strongly recommend doing a minor caliper service once a month and it should take no longer than 30-60mins even on a cold day -
• Remove the caliper pin, spring and pads. Then using an old tooth brush and brake cleaner clean off as much brake dust & crud as possible.
• Using the toothbrush and brake cleaner again clean the pad-bay of brake dust and crud.
• Then push pistons out and clean them with a tooth brush and rotate them with the Sealy piston tool. Or using a toothbrush, cable-tie and brake cleaner - http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=24649.0
• then using a small painters brush apply a thin coating of red rubber grease to the pistons before pushing them back.
• Then reinstall the pads, pin, spring and r-cips.
I went for the first ride on my Fazer since I fixed the damaged LCD odometer display. The odometer display works correctly, but the odometer mileage is not increasing. Are there separate inputs/senders for the speedometer/odometer or is it a combined unit? The speedo is working fine. If anyone can point me in the direction of the pinouts that would be great.
