Hey,


So I've posted on here before about my light and the fact that the cone was directing the light badly and considered taking the cone out completely. Anyway, two weeks ago it passed it's MOT which is great... The not so great news is that on Friday night I rode in the dark for the first time in a while and noticed that my relatively poor lighting was in fact terrible. Unless you want your lights to be highlighting the top of trees that adorn the side of roads!


Having managed to get back to my folks using the light of fellow road users and Full beam when possible (seriously, the beam emits a faint glow onto the road that would be replicated by attaching my phone to the front of the bike) I took the rubber light casing thingy off the back of the light to see this:


http://screencast.com/t/Z6wMi7ZQwpFR




There is a metal clip which the garage who repaired my bike had put in place to hold the cone. What appears to be happening is that the light unit is corroding to the point where the clips on the cone have pretty much nothing left to hold on to, hence directing my light towards the moon.


I wondered if people had any ideas what might be causing the corrosion. I was thinking potentially the bulb is too strong or that the metal wire is causing some kind of current to be passed though??


I have a spare headlamp unit which I could fit, however as I'm heading to France in 2 weeks I'd rather not have to attempt the removal and re-fitting of the fairing in a rush.


Was contemplating taking out the cone, meaning I can remove the metal wire assuming this is a factor


Has anyone seen anything similar before? It's a little concerning how much of the light fitting has disappeared in the last 6 months!


Thoughts/advice most welcome,


Cheers


HJR

Hi All,
Since Red98 "kindly" pointed out that I've got 2 exhaust studs missing on my bike I thought I had better look into getting the snapped ones out.  Apparently they are the easy ones to get to.
I have minimal bike fixing skills and certinaly no tools for this job.  Rather than spend a fortune at the garage does anyone fancy popping over and helping me out?  Happy to pay in beer, food and a tank of fuel......

Rear break started binding on a month or so ago. I assumed it was the usual fazer brake issue, but when I had a look the pistons were clean. I tried to wind them back into the caliper with a piston tool but they wouldn't budge. It was only when I opened the bleed screws they went back. So all was well for two weeks or so and then they stuck again. So this time I took each piston out to check and they were clean as was the bore in the caliper. However, there was a small bit of rubber in brake fluid. So I order and fitted a new hose (still had the original one on and it's a '98 machine so it was getting on for 16 years!) and flushed the system out - including a few more small fragments of rubber. All seemed fine for a couple of week and then yesterday the ****ing thing stuck on again.

The only thing I noticed was when I took the pistons out they were difficult to push back into the caliper - should they be easy to move (with no fluid in and bleed valves open)?

Any suggestions?

Current plan is to re-visit the caliper on friday. I'll pop the pistons back out and pull the seals out (I have a new set), I may split the caliper to have a good look inside (my local bike parts shop stocks the internal o-rings).

So my Dad's Focus 1.8 is now mine to do as I please with. It's too expensive to run for me, so I'll be looking to chop it in soon. So what should I go for? I don't know anything much about cars, but my brother is recommending a smallish turbo diesel, as much cheaper to run. Obviously I'll want something that's pretty reliable, not too expensive, no price figure in mind yet as I haven't yet looked to see what's out there at what price, or what I'm likely to get for the Focus (30-ish k miles on't clock, good condition, full service history). And I'm not made of money!

It's not about performance to me, but may end up needing it for a commute of up to 35 miles each way for a while. As long as it will sit at 70/80 on a motorway trip without sucking the tank dry at an alarming rate - well, you get the picture.

Ideas?

Hi All

Never had a problem before with the engine/carbs and have had this bike from new (17,000 miles 2002) if fact I'm not even sure it is a problem, well not a major one as its never done this before.

Bike has had the 'full monty' done several years ago by Mike and has always run strong and still does.

Its just recently, on my last run, it started to hunt at idle revs between 1000 to 1350. Before this the idle was set at abt 1350 as stayed there fine.

Other symptoms are that it now hestiates when pulling from below 3000 in the higher gears and when pulling away in first at low revs.

Above 3000 its just as normal, well full monty normal and will pull smoothly all the way to the red line without any problem or hesitation. [img alt=]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/smile.gif[/img]

I'm not sure if its a coincidence but I have just swapped my original bars for some Renthals so could there be something I have knocked/altered in the process that could account for this?

Bike as you can see doesn't get used that much but I'm sure it was fine on the May Day run to Hastings with the Renthals on.

Any ideas/suggestions Mike in particular or others in general would be gratefully put to the test.

Many thanks

Steve

I is off to Germany in a few weeks and want extra travel insurance for touring and possible Nurburging that a normal insurance policy does not cover. All advice greatly received including routes round the Black forest and yes the B500 is on the cards.

Daz

My Black XJR with MTC cans offered for sale  on Biketrader for  £3490,


http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/a...5164256557

Hey,

A mate of mine has talked me into trying a track day. Having never raced before I'm not sure what to expect. Have any of you guys tried it on a FZS600? Got any tips, such as bike preparation or how to get the best from the bike on the track? The bike handles beautifully on the road and hope it's even better on the track.

Cheers

Looks a good deal at Lidl and hopefully not made of monkey metal


http://www.lidl.co.uk/cps/rde/SID-D49A37...l&id=12784

I am struggling to find anything on speedo's. As I understand it if you disconnect the speedo you will get engine running problems, is this true? Is there a way around it?

The reason I ask is I would like to put a small speedo out of the way, as I am taking the front fairing off and the original is to bulky.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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