this is one of those times you kind of know the answer but someone may have tried , so im going to ask anyway.


yesterday i thought id give this tyre sealant goop  a go.  the trouble with the product i found is that although the bottle of 500mls is marked you only need 250ml per tyre.  when the bottle has had time to settle the markings v product are clear to see, once you invert the bottle to use it , its as cloudy as mud and you cant be sure how much youve put in , even taking the bottle off to put the right way round doesnt help unless ( i know now ) you leave it a good 10 mins to settle and then you can see product V markings again.  so net result is i thought  oh ive probably but a bit more than  half in, valve back in and re pressurized the tyre and took it for a spin , only to find once back the product had settled to show i hadnt put nearly enough in.


in theory thats it , your fooked ! as you  cannot add more logic says attempting too will clog up the valve as if it were a leak etc and i dont know what chemically happens to the mix if you attempt it ?.


it might be possible to slowly let the air back out holding a towel over the valve ( be messy !)  replace the valve core with a new one and then top up with more product or the balance of expelled plus what didnt go in first time.


anyone done this successfully ?

Hi guys and gals back again with a red 600S boxy my last Fazer was the 1000 but it just didnt do it for me,much more fun on a 600 Mk1
Weather looks like its on the turn and lockdown easing so should be ok for the summer, so stay safe everyone

So the main stand on my fz1 has some rust on it and as I don't know how bad it is, I figured I would get another and get that one painted or power coated.

What's everybody using for prtection?

Or Muddy Talker as he was sometimes referred to...

https://www.bbc.co.uk/sport/formula1/56388596

Quote:The lead car is unique, except for the one behind it which is identical.

I don't make mistakes. I make prophecies which immediately turn out to be wrong.

There's nothing wrong with the car except that it's on fire.

And now, excuse me while I interrupt myself.

And that just shows you how important the car is in Formula One Racing.

Either the car is stationary, or it's on the move.

That's history. I say history because it happened in the past.

Been a while, but now (post covid) I'm thinking of getting a FZ1.
Been riding a Honda NC750x for the last 6 or 7 years (easy commuter and 70MPG), but now I'll be mostly working from home with only a couple of day a week in the office, MPG isn't quite as important so something a bit more fun is in order

Hi all


My first post so hello from me and please be gentle..


I have a 1998 FZS600 with pretty square eyes. Generally very tidy.


It was my wife's but I confiscated it because she stopped riding it. Its got 28800 miles on the clock.


I took it out for a 40 mile ride (err.. house hunting) on Tuesday. The bike is running really well and very smoothly - except for a knock at tick over. Its too slow to be a bearing knock, I am pretty sure that its the cam chain knocking. I have to admit that I haven't heard it before but I am actually quite (almost totally) deaf.


I gather that the cam chains have a life of about 30000 miles so it could be due for a change.


I assume that I don't have to lift the bottom end to replace the chain, I am happy to grind off a rivet of two to split the chain, but are there any recommended non endless chain kits that I can buy to replace the chain? I haven't been able to find one at the usual suspects.


Before I start ripping the bike apart, is there anything else I need to check? I am lifting the carbs out in the next few days (replace the inlet rubbers that have perished) so can get at the cam chain tensioner. Do they have a habit of sticking?


Thanks




Martyn

Hi foccers. Got home from work on my gen2 today and about a minute after parking up it spat some coolant out of the overflow coming from the expansion tank, about a 1/2 pint. The bike didnt overheat on the ride.


The level on the bottle has always been at the full mark when cold since i flushed the system and refilled with coolant last July. The level now sits about half way between low and full when cold, and the radiator is still full to the top.


I know some bikes don't like the level being at the max like my old vfr which always sat on the minimum line, but I don't understand why its only decided this now about 2k miles later?


I ran her up again and got both fans working at 100 degrees, the stat seems to open at around 77 as the temp drops down to 70 before building back up. I took her out again and all seems normal. Im thinking possible dodgy stat?

Afternoon Gents,


Just a quick Hello, as a 1st time Fazer owner and forum user.


I have a 2003 Fazer 1000, with about 38K on the clock, I'm pretty impressed with the Fazer so far and after 7 months of commuting everyday the bikes been great.


Although I would be lying if I didn't say, I still very much miss my MT-09 Tracer I wrote off in 2019.


Cheers,
Mark

For sale is my MRA Vario touring screen with mounted spoiler in very good condition.
Picture seems to show scratches on lower half bit must be fluff or dust picked up by the sun as there's nothing apparent when I look at it now.

£50 posted