So it's been an ambition of mine for a few years now to ride over to the IOM for the TT and now that I have a suitable bike I'm looking at what I need to be doing. The brother in law wants to come with and we would more than likely stay a couple of nights but I know nothing about where to start.
I'm aware that everything gets booked up fast so we are realistically looking at either 2023 or 2024.
So I'd just like some pointers from any fellow foccas that have attended in the past (or plan too in the future) as to the best way to go about it...travel, accommodation, rough costs etc etc
Cheers ?
I'm getting the shed where I store my bike modified to allow me to ride my bike in and out of a nice wide door instead of having to push it back and forth to get through a narrow door and into the alleyway.
As such, I'm going to use one of these "lazy susan" bearings to make a turntable.
I've seen some that have a square section of what appears to be 18mm plywood on top, but, if possible, I'd like to use a thinner metal plate instead (possibly with a no-skid surface).
The idea is that I ride the bike into the shed and then the turntable goes under the centre stand so I can them pivot the bike around 180 degrees so I can ride it out again, but I need the plate to be strong enough that it won't distort without being as thick as the plywood.
Can anyone give me an idea of how thick the metal should be to handle about 200kg of bike?
PS Yes, I know some people spin the bike on the sidestand but a) I can't do that, I've tried and b) I've already had one sidestand shear off because it was being stressed in the wrong ways and they are *not* designed to be used like that, that's why I'm doing the turntable instead.
Just wondered how many people thought the same way as myself. Basically that they really are a total waste of money, built cheap as chips, but not to purchase, cause nothing but problems, remember you are cutting into your multi thousands of pounds motorcycle wiring loom! :eek Throwing in another very large concern when you have any kind of starting issue. I personally will not buy a bike with any form of aftermarket alarm fitted, is is a definite minus against the machine for me. There are so many posts with issues and questions on this site and others about alarm problems! I say avoid like the plague, but buying secondhand you may have to compromise. I remember the early eighties when people would let others drill holes in their new cars, cut into looms and all the rest to fit the biggest load of electronic shite to their cars, they were heard going off all over the place if a shadow was cast on the car! :groan Many people were of the mind set that they simply must have an alarm on their pride and joy! Don't start me on the fitting of aftermarket sun roofs. Thankfully not required on a bike! I know a guy with a mint pristine 1980 Ford RS2000....................... :\
I havnt used my Fazer aside from a run down to Wales to see Dave (Dynspud) all year. Its partly my age i think. Im 62 now, and prefer the lazy ride of my evo 1340 fatboy, or grunting about on my xjr1300, which has become my everyday ride. So the fazer is up for grabs. Long term members will know how much ive cherished this bike in the three or four years ive owned it. its probably the best handling bike ive ever owned, courtesy of MCT suspension (refreshed by Darren last year) front and back (including K tech spring on rear shock.) its 2004, the best colours, and has covered i think 46k. Its Ivanised, and I fitted new Bridgestones just before laying it up at the end of last years summer. Exup valve is serviced and cleaned, with stainless bolts replacing the crap oe ones. comes with standard and four degree advancer plate. MOT has about five months to go. Brake pads are nearly new, and either SBS or goldline EBC. it has a MRA screen thingy. it runs perfectly. Comes with the Ti race can and original mint stocker. Two keys, and two fobs for the datatool alarm. oxford sports intelligent heated grips. it has faults, small, but faults nonetheless. the fairing inners have the usual mild cracks, but are solid. The ignition key has to be wiggled about a bit, but it always turns. Thats it i think.
Im not gonna fanny about with offers, instead just putting it up for a good price. As it is in the photo, but without the givi rack and with the original side handles re fitted, and without the topbox and handguards, £2000. Im servicing it this weekend or early next week (new plugs, filters and oil, carbs balanced) along with taking the bits off, so it'll be ready to go from the following weekend. Can deliver for an agreed price, and the rack etc will be up for sale seperately too. all the best paul
Quote:A patent image has emerged recently from Honda showing a new style clutch lever which is electronically monitored and works by sending feedback to a hydraulic pressure control which engages or disengages the clutch as required.
[Honda] think that computer operated clutch-by-wire is the way forward for a safer and better riding experience. The position of the clutch lever would be monitored electronically and feedback sent to the hydraulic pressure gauge to control the clutch, once the optimum clutch position had been selected by the computer.
Using this new system the clutch would be disengaged while not in use, instead of the current system where its default position is engaged, unless the lever is pulled.
[...]
So is this something you would like and are pleased to see or do you like the feedback from your fingers on the clutch lever? Slightly crazily it seems, Honda are including a 'reactive force generator' to act against the lever to make it feel more like an old style clutch
Ok, fly-by-wire systems aren't exactly new (after all, that's sort of what the TPS does) and it would stop hassles with broken cables, but I'm really not sure about this bit: "Using this new system the clutch would be disengaged while not in use, instead of the current system where its default position is engaged, unless the lever is pulled."
Does that mean you'd have to keep the clutch pulled in all the time to get it to work and release it at traffic lights?
Hi everyone. Got my hands on a 2005 FZS1000 couple of weeks ago. She's spent the last 6 years off the road and unfortunately 3 living outside in a Bush so it's safe to say she needs some TLC.
Not planning on a full restoration but will be getting the wheels and a few other bits powder coated, probably change most of the bolts as their pretty orange. EXUP wasn't seized thankfully but can't say the same for the rotor bolts.
Would appreciate any tips on improving her, I've changed the bars already and it has an upgraded rear shock but this is my first sports bike so rather than struggle please throw suggestions.
Hey newbie here
I took my fazer 1000 out the other morning and it only went about 20 yards and cut out, nothing when i pushed the starter button and the meta alarm fob wouldnt do anything
Battery is fine in the fob and there is power getting to the alarm unit.
Read alot of threads about the alarms so decided to remove it.
Was a bit of a faff but managed to remove all the black wires from the alarm, then its time to rejoin the wires :rolleyes
Managed to get the starter to work but wouldn't fire up.
After a bit of playing and wiring diagram searching i worked out where the other wires should go (hope its correct lol )
But now the starter circuit cutoff relay is playing up as there is no live for the starter at the relay now, also have no neutral light showing.
I have ordered a replacement relay so awaiting arrival to fit and test (will keep you informed)
If i have missed something then any help will be welcomed
Hiya everyone, i have had a fazer 1000 2003 for the last 8/9 years without any problems
Went to take it out the other morning and it just stopped on me, but that will be in a seperate thread
