I’ve recently bought another FZS1000 and  been trying to get it to run right. It stutters at low revs (up to 3k) and backfires on overrun. It pulls well above 3k but doesn’t feel as powerful as my previous but that maybe because it had an Ivan’s “slip on” kit, which I haven’t yet installed on this one. It’s done 46k

I’m looking for ideas on what may be the problem as I’m running out of ideas myself.

• • Done so far:
  • Stripped and cleaned carbs
  •   Cleaned jets, checked sizes. Needle size & position
  •   Checked diaphragms for punctures
  •   Checked float height
  •   Balanced Carbs
  • Set valve clearances
  • TPS failed so new TPS, set to 5k (tried 10k bounce)
  • Checked & cleaned electrical connectors
  • New filters (air, fuel & oil)
  • Check resistances etc on Coils, TPS, sender, plug caps
  • Swapped out plug caps to make an equal set
  • Cut recommended ½” from ignition leads
  • Changed plugs (CR9E & [color=rgb(17, 17, 17)]CR9EIX[/color])
  • [color=rgb(17, 17, 17)]Stripped Exup & straightened to ensure it opened & closed smoothly, rebuilt & adjusted[/color]
  Seems to runs best with mixture screws 2½ turns out
  Plugs are whiteish
  
  I haven’t checked the compression yet but don’t see any indication that is the problem.
  
  My next thought is a worn cam chain, anyone any experiences with this or know where I can find timing for valve opening & closing?
  If I replace it, I am assuming I will have to use a “split” chain (at £80) rather than the original endless (at £24), unless anyone can advise a way to do it without splitting the crankcase.

This came off my 2005 Fazer Thou a few years back. It’s obviously been used but it’s in overall good condition. Also thrown is the racking for side panniers which I bought second hand but never fitted them. I'm looking for 55.00 for the lot, not splitting.
I’m not far from Dorchester in Dorset or it can be all posted for an extra 12.00
I'm struggling with the 'insert image' feature so hopefully you can see the gear in the links below.
Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/s/btarph2ud6foad...1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/huolrmrglmk4fq...3.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uvdabdl5a12mo3...1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r3jk5eyj18hwqj...2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/huolrmrglmk4fq...3.jpg?dl=0

If you have ever adjusted the carburettor pilot screws on the 600 Fazer you will know how restricted the space is on number 3 carb. If you have dainty fingers you might be able to use a very short screwdriver, but I can't. You can buy a bent tool for £18 which is probably good for most bikes but which I found possible but tricky to use on number 3 carb on the 600 Fazer. There is also a much more expensive tool available that uses a pair of small bevel gears and would no doubt do the job well. After seeing a similar idea to this on another forum this is a tool I made using an angled screwdriver from Toolstation for £6.59 and which makes the job a lot easier. Very pleased with the end result which makes the adjustment easy. The chrome extension tube was something I had lying about from some scrapped item.
[smg id=3510]
[smg id=3511]
[smg id=3509]
[smg id=3512]

Hi All, I just bought an FZS1000 which has a white power shock fitted. I can see there are 3 adjusters which I'm guessing are low and high rate compression, at the top, and rebound at the bottom, but I was hoping someone might have a user manual to clarify things for me please? I can't see any markings on the shock to indicate what model it is or which adjuster is which.
Any help appreciated!
Thanks in advance,
Karl

Has you ever heard of using exhaust pipe temperature as a guide when adjusting the pilot screw?

Just for interest I measured to temperature of the exhaust pipes shortly after starting from cold and ticking over for a couple of minutes and I was surprised to find number 3 pipe only got to about 70C when the others had got to about 100C. When I ran it at 2200 revs for a couple of minutes all four got to about the same temperature. I could detect a slight unevenness at tick-over but it never bothered me when riding the bike, which has now done 60,000 miles. After checking cylinder pressures and valve clearances etc. I decided to have a go at a little adjustment of the pilot screw on number three which did smooth out the tick-over. However after letting it all cool down and starting again the tick-over was still smooth but number three ex pipe was still not getting hot as quick as the others. Another 1/4 turn out and now all four pipes get hot at the same time and tick over still smooth. Hence my question about making final adjustments based on exhaust pipe temperature heating up from cold, because I've never heard of it being done that way, and you would normally make such adjustment with everything warmed up. 

Does anyone have  -

1. a comfort/Gel or otherwise modded seat for the FZ1..?
2. a set of bar risers for same.

ta.

Looking for the above for a 2003 (01-05) fazer 1000.
Let me know

Selling an MRA Vario Screen as fitted to my 2002 FZS600. This is the light smoke grey version and was bought new about a year ago. In good condition but has a couple of tiniest of stone chips which to be honest you can only see in certain light, and when I say tiny, I really mean tiny!


https://www.bikehps.com/acatalog/Yamaha_...tml#a37525
[size=78%]




£55 posted to UK mainland including Isle of Man.[/size]

Anybody have a Mivv can for sale for a Fazer1000 ?  Must be in excellent nick....Thanks