hi all just fitting a new speedo drive to my bike its a 1999 fzs600 if it makes a differance, and there are no thread in nearside fork leg, so axle is just being held by pinch bolt, this cant be correct can it? just passed mot like this too! :'(

Hi all! I thought I'd catalogue how this bike build goes, hopefully it'll be as good of a bike as my last!

So currently I've got a piece of rust in bike form on a 99 plate frame, crap paint job and been left standing for too long but it starts... I've already bought a few bits they include a clean hpi 2003 frame with v5 in my name, this will get powder coated then ill transfer everything over. New old stock SS Micron headers and have a foxeye fairing and tank, the fairing is currently fitted to my soon to be sold vtr1000.

Plan is to transfer over everything to the fresh frame and make perfect slowly as I've too many projects and a house refurb to complete but this way I'll keep the missus happy!

Ideas for the new build is fit lighter wheels from an R1 and and R1 2008 USD front end which I've already got and have fit to my previous FZR1000 and current VTR. Powder coat everything eventually and get it wrapped or sprayed maybe matt black.

Current issues I've found:
Tank fuel overflow blocked, now fixed as its left outside in the rain!
Clutch cable was rock solid but now is supper loose and not disengaging the clutch -any ideas welcome! Clutch cable operates the bottom mechanical arm.
Coolant smells and is a bit foamy when bike running again ideas anyone?
Cylinders all run but 1/2 hot with 4 cokder and 3 coldest. Maybe need balance/ clean out. Idle is ok.
Haven't drained oil yet, hoping its not milkshake! Was going to do compression test first, is there a tester on ebay known to work on the spark thread that is reliable?

Jobs this week are to get frame powder coated and hopefully start the strip down. Pics to follow!

Sent from my SM-A415F using Tapatalk

Hi to all. First post on the forum though i've been reading it for 3 years.


I have a 2002 fzs1000. Bought it at 10k miles a year or 2 ago and it now has 20k miles. I'm Belgian but converted it for you . I bought it with a titanium akropovic exhaust but last year i went to the ground in a corner at around 80mph and slid some 140meters... so now i fitted a stock can.


My problem is this:


When i open the throttle hard and the rpm passes 5000-8000 rpm, i occasionally get a big stutter. Just 1, a fraction of a second. I never had it happen to me in first gear.
It feels quite violent. At first i thought it was my chain or something else locking up, so i changed the chain and sprocket, serviced the swingarm. However the problem remained.


Then i figured ok...the big stutter is just the acceleration dropping away and coming back on full in a fraction of a second. It feels as if for a moment somebody gives a very strong tug from behind.
Probably just losing power which comes right back on.
Last thing i did now is replace the fuel filter, because i figured maybe not enough fuel comes into the engine while accelerating hard for a moment...but unfortunately that also didn't make any difference. Any ideas as to what my problem could be? I've been searching the internetz quite a bit this last week but haven't found other people that have my problem. It's really 1 big tug that i get for a fraction of a second, then it keeps accelerating.


But i think if i were leaning in a corner far with open throttle and i get that kind of shock, i could actually loose the backwheel or something when riding on the edge. Though i'll probably never accelerate so hard when cornering.


Any thoughts as to what might be the problem? I didn't have the problem until like 10 days ago. I service it myself. Haven't done valve clearance check. I'm afraid that if it keeps happening and it's something in the engine, it might actually wreck the engine. Could it be the fuel mixture setup? I have to use choke to turn my engine on, even when it's like 20°c out. and i also have to give it a little bit of gass before it comes on. Is that normal? once it has run about 20 seconds i can drop choke and it will sit around 1000rpm and when the engine is warm it idles at 1100-1200 rpm. At a pretty constant rpm as well.


Greetz and thanks in advance !


Sebastiaan

Hi, the bike has reached 25000 and my question is do I really need to have the valves checked?
Money is a bit tight at the moment and I could do a small service my self,  but the valve check is way beyond me.How critical is it to do the check?
Can I wait till next year ( I am only doing less than1000 miles a year)The mechanic doing the job is unhelpful and non committal.I understand many will say it is important to follow Yamaha service schedules.
Just wanted to know what are peoples experience with the valve check and how many have had to do any adjustments.

Is it possible to fit a speedo/Rev counter assembly from a later model that has a double trip and clock button to a earlier 1999 model?

Recently found that one of my forks was leaking oil and decided that the seal was probably shot. I have had the bike for 16 years and it's been out in all weathers and never let me down. Had a look on YouTube to see if it was possible to change the seals myself. Watched a few videos and it all looked pretty straight forward so I bought all the relevant bits such as seals, new circlips, bushes, and thicker fork oil. After a little bit of trouble managed to get the forks off and stripped down. Replaced the seals but then found that for a reason that totally alluded me when all the internals are put back inside the spacer protrudes about 4 inches above the top of the stanchion and I cannot put the end cap back on. I followed the instructions on the videos exactly but something is wrong. Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks.

Hi has anyone had this test recently,any advice on getting a first time pass.
Thanks

Not having much luck with my bikes lately...Went to use the thou for work the other morning and the batteries flat. Stuck it on charge which worked but a couple of start-ups and its flat again  :\ ...Battery is only 2 years old, charged iam on 13v but soon drops to 10v not enough to start and run...going to need a new battery, Motobatt looks to be the best buy ATM but not if they only last 2 years....Anyone else rum Motobatt ? Had any problems ?

Greetings all,


Had a spare taller seat that i purchased on here a while back. Unfortunately, it was a little too tall. Took it to be reupholstered but when they took the cover off, the foam etc underneath was pretty much rotten / been eaten. It wasn’t cost effective to have them rebuild it from scratch.


Soo…..


Anybody got a slightly taller than standard reworked / comfort type seat that they’d like to part with for sensible money please?


Thought I’d ask here before I go to that auction site to pick up a cheap second hand seat to be recovered.


I’ve tried a gel pad strapped on top of the standard, but don’t like the way that you roll around on it whilst riding and tbh, I didn’t find it much, if any more comfortable. It’s really a little more height that I’m after, to reduce the angle of my knees and hips as I get older.

Hi,it is that time, 25000 mile service.
Spoke to my mechanic before covid and he was going to get everything needed to remove the AIS system,  now he says I have to get what's needed and is not being very helpful.
Looking on Pat's page he shows what he calls a carb intake boot which blanks the hole in the carb, unfortunately I can not find it on Fowlers Yamaha parts list, any Idea what the part number is and how to get one?Any idea what to do about the hole in the air box?Is there any thing else I need.The mechanic is going to crimp the ends of the tubes so don't need the bolts to fill the holes in the engine.
How important is it to have the valves checked at 25000 miles,  can I wait a few or thousands miles? It would certainly help me out at the moment as the bill is not going to be cheap.
Do you do a oil change at the same time as the valve check.? Because if I can get away with out the valve check I will do a oil change and small service  my self.