So  seen it a few times on here,,  what's the score, I know of some 04R1 forks, what else do I need ?

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Hi guys want to remove the bowl off the right hand outer carb without stripping them all off. Any one doe this and have any tips. Cheers.

Hi, does anyone have, or know where I can get the 5 mm coolant pipe that runs from the Thermostat housing to the carburettors on a 2003 FZS600 please. It's about 7 inch long, it's not available from Fowlers. Failing that does anyone know where I can get a length of 5 mm (internal diameter coolant pipe, finding 6 mmm is easy but no one seems to stock 5 mm. Best regards... Cliff Briggs.

off to the Dragon near Hawes tomorrow morning. StAying over for a couple of nights and hoping to cover a few good miles of dales roads. Is there. Butty van on hart side at the moment?

Does anyone know how the self-test turns the EXUP???


I imagined it would open it right up and then close it to the 'zero'd' position - with the tabs over the hole. Mine moves it from the zero'd position even MORE closed!!! It doesn't get very far because that's as far as the valve will turn. The self-test then fails and I get the 7k error displayed.


I've taken the cables off and the valve feels free to turn. I've freed the cables up so they have decent slack and the tabs line up over the hole (zero'd).

I usually do my own work on the bike but when I went to service the valve I discovered that one of the pulley plate bolts had sheared off before I bought it and I didn't fancy trying to drill that out of there so put it in to the local mechanic. When it came back the pulley plate bolts were good and the valve serviced but I now get this 7k error. Don't ask why I'm not returning it to the mechanic - it took 6 weeks and a ton of cash last time and it's not an experience I'm in a hurry to repeat.


Anyway, I'm now wondering if I need to adjust the cables further so the valve sits rotated in a more open position so the self-test can close the valve further - currently the test is driving the valve to it's fully closed position and failing - if I adjust the cables to rotate the valve to a slightly more open position the test can then close it further like it wants to...


But is that normal - for the test to start by *closing* the valve?? Like I said, I expected it to do an open-close cycle, not close-open-close - or whatever it is supposed to do...


The servo does start to open the valve when I rev the engine up (though I don't know at what engine speed as I can't watch the pulley and the rev counter at the same time!).


BTW, thanks Yamaha for putting the servo there - I hope I never have to get it out!!! I also found that the mechanic had disconnected the electrics to the coolant filler (temperature gauge??). Ah yes, that's why I do stuff myself...

How are your bikes holding up for age related wear and tear?


I'm debating to go back to an FZ1S or to get a 16 plate 10. After seeing how my Tracer 900 has taken to the UK weather/roads with a fair bit of corrosion, rusty bolts, etc, I thought I'd see how yours were doing.

Apparently, from May there are new changes to the MOT?!? I'm not sure if it affects Motorcycles or not.
You will no longer be able to drive your car if it goes for the MOT before it is due and fails the test, In the past, as long as your car was roadworthy, you could keep driving it even after it failed, provided your old MOT was still valid. But now the second your car fails, it can be deemed 'dangerous', and that means a fine of up to £2,500 and 3 points on your licence.

So if your car fails the test and you have taken it to a test centre that does not do repairs what do you do? All MOT results are uploaded and stored, so any 'dangerous' faults go on the database straight away. So I would imagine there is every likelihood that you will be picked up by police cars having ANPR cameras on them if you drive it home, more money for the Government. :grumble

Just got some spots for the fazer and going through different wiring ideas , is it safe to use the live feed for the headlights for power or will it draw to much power for the circuit? The spots are 30w each

Hi all


Recently just fixed up my FZS600 after coming off it about a month ago (minor damage) however both times I've come off it the crankcase cover seems to take the most damage. I've been debating on getting a set of Engine bars to go around the engine because if I come off it again I don't mind having to fork out for new bars, I'm just getting tired of having to find more crankcase covers  :lol .


My question is what are the best ones to get in everyone's opinion? Anyone have any recommendations? I'm not interested in crash protectors bar that goes through the bike with rubber bits either side, would definitely only be interested in the actual bar cages looking things to go round the engine.


Hope one of you can help like you always do.


Thanks in advance 
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