can anyone send me or post pictures of the 4 brackets holding on their belly pan on please. Can you also show the bolts they held on by.


Many thanks

So I'm going on a weeks tour of Scotland next month and have been trying to make my 2003 foxeye as quiet as possible in the helmet for the long motorway miles. Thought I'd share how I got on incase anyone else is trying the same.

I bought an MRA screen with the standard spoiler last year and eventually got myself a Nolan N87 lid. Fantastic lid for the money feature wise. But having done 2 days in wales the turbulence around the sides of the helmet really comes through to your ear'ols, even with foams in. I found the MRA spoiler worked best fully down to smooth air, which was effective up to 50mph but 70+ was a bit of a mare. Eventually noise reduction became my main effort so I had a look at a few options, Including buying the taller spoiler (but not buying an actual sport tourer!). I instead decided to plump up the money and buy a supposed wind tunnel tested helmet and of course ended up looking at both the shoei GT air and schuberth c3. Went with the shoei and bloody prayed it was quieter.

Result is pretty positive. More insulated internals by the ear mean I'm not getting the high frequency buffeting I was in the Nolan. But most interestingly I've found that the MRA spoiler now works best fully raised, which simply did nout for the Nolan. Noise at 70 is now much more acceptable, and yes helmets are either loud or louder but I'm now riding happily with the alpinesafe race plugs which are only around 20db reduction rather than the -36db foams.

So I guess in summary I'm happy with the GT air + raised MRA screen. Obviously a lot of variables for different people but I'm 5'7 with a long torso for reference. Ill try to make another post of my other mods to the bike with pics..

[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]Hello everybody, not so long ago i bought a Yamaha FZS 600 as a first bike. Being a complete novice to motorcycles i started reading about basic maintenance and stuff and i ran across valve clearance, which should be done at every 40k km on my bike. Seeing as my bike has 32k km on it, in a country thats famous for reversing odometers i started hearing sounds.[/color]

[color=rgb(0, 121, 211)]https://youtu.be/ImyeOKCOwRs[/color]


[color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]Now is it all in my head, or do i have to prepare for adjusting the valve clearance, replacing camshaft(based on the other sources i have found)? Power seems good(havent pushed it too much), there are no hiccups, and it idles fairly well as the previous owner didnt winterize the fuel. Thanks in advance.[/color]

Hi guys, I am going down the route of a 4 digree ignition advancer, I have removed the cover and my ignition pick up is marked "Denso 4xv" does anyone know is this an origional item or does the 4xv mean its a 4 digree advance?
many thanks John

Got Renthal 758 bars and would like the mediums - anyone got the mediums and want the ultra low?

Bought mine about a year or so ago, but have only been out about half a dozen times, so they are pretty much new condition. Didn't put the grip stay hole in them.

Piccies




They are great bars but I have difficulty with my hands - I actually find my right arm goes to sleep on even short journeys and I feel a lot more comfy sat more upright (but that's no good for fun speeds).

Anyone want a swap? Otherwise they will be for sale, cos I don't want to use raisers. As can be seen in the pics, I've rotated them backwards a bit to make them a little closer, but they are just too low for me. I was happy when I bought them, but my body bits are getting more buggered with age.

So if ya want to buy the 758s, sensible offers would be considered.

ok so after a post last week and my bearing issues i thought i would start a ongoing link of bearing sizes
please only post actual sizes no jokes etc unless you KNOW a post is inaccurate
please add the year of your bike as although it is likely the same a quick check through fowlers will tell you if its the same part code
- i am a big fan of SKF bearings and would advise that is the route to go


"2000 5dm7"

Rear wheel bearings  - 6204 2RS

Sprocket carrier bearing - 6206 2RS  - mine had a 6206RS which is only one seal and it truely shit the bed

[size=1.35em]Hi there, this is a shout out to any foccers in the Sheffield/Worksop/Nottingham areas who'd be up for a run out & meet at the Green Hut Bikers cafe- [/size]

[size=1.35em][color=rgb(0, 10, 18)]A 616 Worksop Road[/color][color=rgb(0, 10, 18)], [/color][color=rgb(0, 10, 18)]Ollerton NG22 9DR. [/color]If there's anybody interested, Sunday May 6th or 13th preferred. Here's to a dry spring [/size]

[size=1.35em][color=rgb(0, 10, 18)]Cheers . . . Will[/color][/size]

Hiya,


My names Mat and I currently own a Gen 1 FZS1000 which I love, I have owned it for around 8 years and its in a bit of a sorry state now. The time has come to resurrect it and get it back to its former glory.

Attached Files

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So i'm probably about to fire the engine for the first time tomorrow following a cam chain replacement and the deepest engine work I have ever attempted. Today I checked the valve timing as I have had the cams out (all just within spec) and after a few beers this evening something hit me:


Given that the crankshaft turns 720 degrees in one full rotation of the engine, when I re-installed the cams at TDC for piston 1, how do I know it's at TDC for piston 1 and not piston 3? Then I remembered that the HT leads are divided between 1+3 and 2+4. Does this mean that 1 and 3 spark at the same time regardless of whether the piston is in compression or power stroke? If so then it only matters that the cam chain dots lined up with the markings on the engine whilst the crankshaft is at TDC as the spark plugs spark twice per 720 degree rotation.


Or I could be wrong and tomorrow it will blow up.

Just to say hello chaps got me new bike last Monday loads of things to do it it