Hi,


Has anyone ever purchased a new fuel tap? I’ve removed it to check the filter but in doing so the filter snapped off due to being very weak.


Cheers

[color=rgb(29, 33, 41)]For sale: cut out seat in need of reupholstering, foam virtually intact but needs new black cover, make me an offer, west mids, great for lowering center of gravity for easy peg scraping [/color][color=rgb(29, 33, 41)] [/color][color=rgb(29, 33, 41)][/size] I'm 6'5'' and love it, would benefit shorter riders too. selling as got good condition original and bought a bigger bike so selling the fazer with the original one[size=0px][/color]


welcome to try before you buy

As I know this has been done lots of times, looking for some advice.

Recently did the mod, R1 4xv forks with R1 yokes and pressed Fazer stem fitted. Springs not changed and used Motorex 7.5w oil, mainly due to time constraints and was available from stock. Weight in full gear for me is approx 80kg. All settings as per 4xv R1 as a starting point.

The problem I have is that it seems to patter and a bit pogo sticky over bumps. No issues with head bearings etc.

Is it likely the springs are way wrong or oil viscosity? Or perhaps needs more rebound adding? I’m far from a suspension specialist but it just feels a bit wrong.

Thanks in advance.

Size Large in White/red/black. Only worn 4 times but just a tad too tight for me. Should have gone for XL. £60 posted.

I told you to stop complaining about weather and football people.

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BRITAIN is now officially a banana republic with constant sunshine, collapsing government and a very good football team.

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NOW SOLD For sale is my 2001 600 fazer.


MOT'd early march 2018, mileage is 31k, rear tyre has less than 1000 mile on it, same with chain and sprocket. This spring I did kebabs front fork mod, new dust and oil seals, yss emulators and öhlins springs rated at 85nm. I've got the original damper rods and springs so it can be reverted back. Carb inlet rubbers replaced about two years ago and are in great condition. Carb balance done last month and the engine starts and runs extremely well. I had the seat made around three years ago and it is slightly lowered with a gel insert. Headlight mod also done. LED indicators, LED tail light. Looking for offers around £1150 located in Bristol all paperwork in my name 07449838290

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Fairly sure it's been covered before but I just wanted to say that I've recently changed out the front brake master cylinder and the difference is substantial.
Horrified by the price of Brembo aftermarket units, I fitted a 16mm R1 radial master cylinder from the 2004-06 model. I believe the R6 master cylinder from 2008 onwards are virtually the same and are also a relatively straight fit. Costs around the ton and worth considering if your bike is soon due for a master cylinder rebuild / refurb.
Braking is always a subjective thing but I have to say that there's a lot less effort required to build stopping power towards max....yet somehow the sensitivity is still there, certainly enough to avoid overloading the forks / locking the front up.

Recommended!
Pics to follow

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Yamaha fazer 1000 sold[/td][/tr][/table]

Hi guys have been sorting my old gal out today, recharged my K&N filter, cleaned crankcase breather, I even found a filter on my airbox breather pipe I never knew about so yep, I even cleaned that too! whilst cleaning the plugs I started thinking.. hmmm how could I get more air to the box cos the intake opening faces backwards?
I've had a look on the links and the comments on the site but not much really in the way of ideas so..
I was wondering how about some kind of ram air system? I was thinking I could place a cover or 'scoop' looking shroud over the air intake entrance, like I said due to the fact it faces backwards maybe lead a hose to the front of the bike with another scoop facing front collecting shed loads of air when going forward.
What's your thoughts on would it work, I would love to know if it would be of any benefit from all you mechanical minded people out there.
Cheers in advance for your thoughts 

Took exup cables off bike as part of a major re-furb... Thinking I'd remember where everything went when I put it back together...

Does the 'silver' cable at the top of the pulley on the exhaust go to the top of the servo motor wheel?

That's right isn't it? The 'black' cable at the bottom of the pulley routes to the bottom of the servo wheel...?

And... When the switch the ignition on should the servo go through a push and pull cycle? Mine seems only to pull the top ('silver') cable - there's no 7k error on the clocks..

And can someone tell me why, after 10 years of ownership, I seem to have forgotten all this... Haahaa!

Cheers,
Steve