Originally posted by Set Fazer To Stun on 28/12/2006


I finally got round to fitting this during the holiday. It took about 2 hours in total and it really is quite simple. No special tools are required. Comprehensive instructions were included and I followed these. However I also took some pictures as they paint a thousand words.  :thumbup

What you get for your money:

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Clockwise from top to bottom. Digi display, bracket and cable. Gear sensor and cable. Scotch lock connector. Black power box. 'O' ring and fixing screws.

First thing is to remove the old gear sensor. This is found under the front sprocket cover. Remove the pinch bolt on the gearshift and slide it off its shaft. Then undo the 5 allen head bolts holding the cover in place. Note one is longer than the other four. I then bungeed the cover up and out of the way. No need to remove it.

Here is what you will see with the cover off:

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Here it is again only this time with the old sensor cleaned up a bit so that you can see it.

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Note the small wire screwed into it near the top. You need to undo this wire and use the same screw to fit the wire to the new replacement sensor unit.

The old sensor unit is held in place by 2 cross head screws. The new one uses allen head bolts supplied with the kit. Before fitting the new sensor you must fit it with an 'O' ring. Once fitted you should then lubricate the 'O' ring, I used some clean engine oil for this. Do not over tighten the sensor as this may cause distortion and subsequent leaks.

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The picture above shows the new sensor in place. I routed the cable with the others in that area and went down and around the water pump, this brought it up in the area just below the carbs. From there it was easy to route it up and under the fuel tank. (smile.gif)

Just ensure that you do not trap the cable in the cover or get it too near the sprocket. (thumbsdown.gif)

Next up is to attach the Digi display into position on top of the instruments. To do this you must remove the screen and its rubber seal:

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Once removed you can then attach the bracket to the back of the instrument, like so:

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For security I used a nut with a nylon insert in it. Re fit the seal and screen.

The kit comes with a black power box. For neatness this is fitted inside the black box which can be found underneath the fuel tank. The fuel tank can be hinged up and then propped up in that position, as shown in the picture below:

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Undo the lid of the box and there are loads of wires and connectors inside it. I made no electrical connections from here.

The power for the display should be ignition controlled. I used the + feed from the back of the horn. To use this I added a 'piggyback' spade connector to the end of the BLUE wire from the black power box:

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I then attached this to the + feed terminal on the back of the horn. When the horn was replaced I attached the + lead on to the 'piggyback' connector which then provided the ignition controlled power.

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All that’s then left to do is to connect both the sensor and digi display to the black power box. Here you can see everything connected up and neatly installed within the black box:

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The quality and finish of all of the component parts are excellent and a lot of thought has gone into this accessory. I am well pleased with it (thumbsup.gif)
(thumbsup.gif) The end result is very impressive:

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No more looking for that elusive 7th gear for me!!

Which is best?

Originally posted by Nooj on 28/02/2009


If you want to fit LED indicators to your FZS600 Fazer, you can get them flashing at the correct rate by wiring a 21w resistor in parallel with each one, or by fitting a new relay designed to work with LEDs. I chose the relay method and bought a Motrax universal one because it was all they had in the shop, but there are plenty of others.

This job really is a doddle, to do it the same way I did all you will need tool-wise is a 6mm drill bit (and a drill obviously) a soldering iron, wire cutters, wire strippers (if you want to do it properly) and a socket set with a security Torx type driver thingy.


Step one:
Remove the left side pod under the seat (left as if you were sat on the bike). This is where you will need the security Torx type driver thingy, for removing the security Torx type screw thingy. Once the screw's out get your fingers under the pod and prise it out.

Step two:
Remove and unplug the relay, the thing in the picture with a red rectangle around it. Take it off, rubber holder and all.

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Step three:
Drill a hole in the new relay, to the left of the existing hole, but not too far over, somewhere round here:

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Step four:
Behind the old relay you should see a nasty green Yamaha screw. This is one of the screws that hold the air box in the frame. Take the screw out and put it somewhere safe, you will need it again! It should now look like this:

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Step five:
Hardest part comes next, cut the two wires coming out of the relay so they are each about 100mm long, strip between 7 - 10mm of the insulation from the ends, twist the bare conductors tightly together and tin the ends with the soldering iron. Don't put too much solder on them, if they are all blobby you can't do the next bit.

Step six:
Screw the relay to the bike and push the soldered ends of the wires into the connector block that the old relay plugged into. Red wire to the outside connector pin, black wire to the middle one. This is what you should have:

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Easy-peasy lemon squeezy!

on the normal forum, but can I have a custom title please ?  :lol

Something that reflects my years of selfless service and thousands of witty killer posts. :rollin

nope, cant figure out how to upload a foto from my drive, and I gave it a full 35 seconds before I gave up.

Do we need a gallery thing to upload to first ??


Ahh, sussed it, but 192 is the max allowed.

Try again

Attached Files

  snakes2 (1).jpg (Size: 41.54 KB / Downloads: 4)

I reported one of your posts to the moderators. Have you banned yourself yet ? or even recieved the report.

Oh, doesn't look like email notifications are happening either.

Originally posted by Alistair


1998 Launch (evolved from the Euro / Japanese FZ400)
. Model number 5DM1 (see sticker on frame under the seat).
. Colours: red, black, gold; official designations:
VRC1 (Vivid Red Cocktail 1)
BL2 (Black 2)
DRYC1 (Deep Reddish Yellow Cocktail 1)

1999
. Model number 5DM4.
. Colours: burgundy, black, gold, silver; official designations:
VRC7 (Vivid Red Cocktail 7)
BL2 (Black 2)
DRYC1 (Deep Reddish Yellow Cocktail 1)
SM1 (Silver Metallic 1)

2000
. Model number 5DM7, 5DMA
. Colours: gold/black/silver, red/black/silver, black, silver:
DRYC1 (Deep Reddish Yellow Cocktail 1)
VRC1 (Vivid Red Cocktail 1)
BL2 (Black 2)
SM1 (Silver Metallic 1)
. S model introduced with 3-tone colour scheme.
. Pre-load spring adjuster added to front forks.
. Tank 'increased' 2li to 20 litres (by reducing the depth of the overfill pipe).
. Both tank breather tubes no longer directly connected to the tank but now via a new inverted funnel secured to a fairing cross member.
. Pillion comfort improved: Rear pegs lowered 45mm & moved forward 10mm and pillion seat padding increased by 16mm.
. Exhaust angle lowered to accommodate longer pillion pegs.
. Pillion pegs redesigned to remove 'barb' from handhold/luggage-retention projection and the 'eyelet' hole is reduced in size. Pillion pegs are now rubber coated also.
. Clutch springs and friction plates redesigned (used to be grabby selecting 1st on cold start).
. Gear lever / shift arm 4mm longer.
. Pillion grab-rail changed from plain black steel tube to colour coded FRP moulding.
. Clocks changed to include an extra second trip meter and a digital clock/timepiece.
. Hazard warning button added to left hand switchgear.
. Some changes to electrical connectors (e.g. headlight mod connector now black, used to be blue).

2001
. Model number 5DMC.
. Colours: red/black/white (new decal pattern), blue, black, silver:
VRC1 (Vivid Red Cocktail 1)
BMC1 (Blue Metallic Cocktail 1)
BL2 (Black 2)
SM1 (Silver Metallic 1)
. Carbon-effect clock surround (used to be gold-effect).
. Silver painted fork lowers (previously plain alloy).
. Plain (silver) steel rear sprocket (used to be black).
. Helmet holder missing (used to be a welded, bent steel rod under the seat).
. Yamaha changed the recommended service interval on all their 2001+ models to 6000 miles (previously 4000 miles). No material changes were made to specifically accommodate this, so it could be considered 'backward compatible' if you choose.

2002 - Launched at Paris show Sept 2001
. Model number 5RT1
. Colours: blue, silver, yellow; official designations:
DPBMC (Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C)
S1 (Silver 1)
RYC1 (Reddish Yellow Cocktail 1)
. Tank design changed, more sculpted, capacity increased 2li to 22 litres. (inc 3.6li reserve)
. Front fairing/headlights changed to resemble FZS1000 fairing.
. Fairing 'YAMAHA' brand replaced with the tuning-fork logo.
. New wider mirrors on thinner stalks.
. Indicator stalks now rubber (previously solid plastic with a sloppy fit making them rattle).
. New instrument panel, similar but slightly smaller.
. Stainless steel exhaust header pipes but still painted black and the welds are not stainless, so still rusts!.
. New black wire mesh radiator guard (none previously).
. Narrower chain?
. Holes for the chain guard are higher (so a pre-02 hugger won't fit).
. Overall height up 10mm to 1180mm (seat height unchanged).

2003 - Available from July 02
. Model number 5RT4
. Colours: red (with black fender & on tail), blue, silver; official designations:
VRC1 (Vivid Red Cocktail 1)
DPBMC (Deep Purplish Blue Metallic C)
S1 (Silver 1)
. Tank 'YAMAHA' brand replaced with the tuning-fork logo.

2003 - June 17
The Fazer FZS 600 in its current form fails to meet the latest round of Whole Vehicle Type Approval laws including Euro-2 emissions which means it cannot be registered as a new bike after this date. Fazers cannot legally be sold (within the European Union) after this date unless they have previously been registered prior to 17/06/03. No official public information exists regarding what form a replacement model might take or when to expect it. Rumours suggest a de-tuned R6 engine with a launch of 03Q4.


(This is from the model number sticker on the frame under the seat.)
010 = ?
014 = France ?
050 = Finland
060 = ?
070 = UK
100 = Netherlands
101 = Germany
110B = Denmark


Originally posted by daveph on 22/07/2010

Where else would you find a summary of model changes / colours but on a Yamaha Poland archive page.
Covers FZ6 as well as FZS600 so more up-to-date

I got the christmas decorations out of the loft and came across a present I forgot to give the kids last year, which is a shame cos' they would have loved that kitten.

Due to the weather being so cold I have a few of these snowmen unassembled, but ready for someone with a bit of time on ther hands to loving show ther creative side.

Attached Files

  unassembled snowmen.jpg (Size: 45.98 KB / Downloads: 16)

Autumn pootle