Hi

I'm new to the site and have a gen 1 Fazer 1000.

I have removed the Givi luggage rack and listed it on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110832179370?s...1555.l2649

I also have an E36 pannier that I was using as a top box http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110832184757?s...1555.l2649

Please take a look at the auctions if you want either or both of these items.Look forward to seeing you out and about.

Just wanted to post a thread (partly to keep current on the site!) that might help others with poor battery performance.

Having gone through about 5 batteries since the OEM one died after 5 years, I've found a two-pronged solution. Haven't tested which one is the relevant one, but since:

- installing a Motobatt battery
- taking out the in-line fuse to my Oxford grips except when it's really cold

...my battery has performed flawlessly all winter.

how many miles do you have left once the light starts to flicker? thanks

on monday my cam chain tensioner finally decided to do its job it took a long time about 3000 miles and with the low temperatures the engine never really fully warmed up so the rattle was almost constant and it was driving me mad i did panic a bit monday night when i started my bike and thought something is wrong it doesnt sound right it took me about 10 seconds before i worked out there was no rattle i forgot how smooth and quiet the engine should be i'm loving the bike as its coming up to 45000 miles with 10000 miles of them being mine since i got it may last year i'm really looking forward to summer and racking up more miles

priced valve and cables up £200 (lots n lots of beer tokens)
,
i ride March through to Nov going to rallies etc every weekend putting approx 200 mile each time, dont thrash it unless feeling naughty (of course not in this country too  :evil )

Most of my rides have camping gear on bike and we do 80 mph

so i would guess maybe 2 dozen times a year its me my bike and fast riding

The question is  .... Do I need to spend that 200 on this damn exup thingymabob or not?? what harm will it do?? or am i just missing mid range torque that i prob dont use that often ??  OK OK all you 80-90-100mph need it....but  do I

:z :z :z :z :z prob been answered before but searched n not come up with much in the way of a definitive answer

..................gramps.

my bikes suffered a clunky gearbox since i bought it 6000 miles ago with 13k on the clock. It glunked in first to second and strangely second to third  :'(

The gear rearset was setup correctly with the dot inline with the gap, since then ive moved it further down so the dots not inline strangely the gearbox seems to clunk less? :rolleyes

When i bought it to me it looked slightly bent (could this cause it?)

thankfully it doesnt suffer with the dreaded jumping out of second

Should i be concerned? i dont have much confidence with it atm and its even causing me to think about selling it incase it does go majorly wrong

What size socket/spanner fits the rear axle nut?

Check slack on side stand as in Haynes and service guide, normal method!
OR - below taken from Owners manual:

To check the drive chain slack

1. Place the motorcycle on the centerstand.

2. Shift the transmission into the neutral position.

3. Spin the rear wheel several times to locate the tightest portion of the drive chain.

[font=]4. Measure the drive chain slack as shown [/font]
[font=] :rolleyes [/font]

What threadlock would you recommend or have you used when replacing the front sprocket nut?I don't want to use the ultimate strenght stuff that has to be heated to 300 degrees before you can remove the nut but I want something that will hold the nut tight until I need to replace the front sprocket.Thanks in advance for any replies.

I'm replacing my chain and both sprockets and I've got three options:

Busters generic kit (DID chain) £80-90
Renthal sprockets, Tsubaki chain £135
Yamaha set £150

Any experience with these or advice? I like to think I look after my chain but probably do neglect it a bit.