Hi All
As you all guessed new to the forum and its looking good so far
I am pround owner of a gen1 fazer 1000 which i use on sunny days ( not much in last couple of months :'( )
but ride a old school Suzuki GSX1100G daily and my good lady also owns a Gen1 fazer 600 as well as a Kawasaki er5 ( daily Transport )
been riding on and off for 30 years now
Hey guys, I bought my '03 Fazer and it came with what look to be mountings for some sort of crash bungs. (See round chunk of metal at the bottom right, near the downpipes) I believe that the previous owner took this down the road and then took the bungs off because they looked scruffy. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get some more? Just the bungs, not a whole set.
got a FZ1s (2007 in case its relevant ?) that has a PC3 fitted in what I assume is the usual place under pillion seat in the wee doochit the tool kit would sit, however I miss this wee space to put things mainly puncture kit ( noo that I've said it I'll need it next time I head out).
So is there somewhere else I can locate the PC3 I did think about at the front under a fairing panel, but from what I can see I don't think the cabling would be long enough, or they maybe interference issues with running the cabling over the engine ?
....Any ideas ??
NOw a question when I bought the bike it came with the PC fitted guys stated it had been setup on a dyno but I had my doubts, as it has a Duke map loaded onto it, which you can get freely but I've read mainy people all stating the samething if you don't want to damage your engine then get it setup on a dyno.......?
my question is if the PC plugs into the ECU and complements the factory fuelling, surely the PC can only add fuel at certain points and not subtract/limit fuel if this is the case then even if you don't setup the PC on a dyno you not cause harm as all the will happen is the engine will run rich or I have missed something, I understand a correctly setup PC done on a dyno will give the best performance.....
Bike has just done 8500 miles and MOT time as it has reached its third birthday
Back tyre was flat in the middle and down on its uppers so a new rear required as I had changed the pair last year and done around 3-4 k in the last year.
Checked the front tyre usually two rears to a front right? That was what it was last time but this time my front tyre has worn strangely.
Looking at the tyre the middle is fine, the nearside is round but tapering a little in mid tread and the right hand side is worn flat between the middle and the sidewall- I remember the last front tyre went a bit that way.
I am pretty good at keeing my tyre pressures correct and guess if I rode it down on pressure I would have a worn mid side tread but then it would be equal on both sides wouldnt it? not one rounded and one flattened?
Any Ideas?
Bike mechanic said its because Powys roads have a pronounced camber because of the heavy rainfall :o Yeah right- anyway I usually ride in P3 (just inside the centre line for the non Police trained riders) so should have a pretty good flat bit there.... probably equivelent to a long weight (wait :'( ) and a rubber hammer or a tin of elbow grease :o )
OK, I've been here a month now and I'm frigging bored.
* Everyone rides Harleys. Everyone thinks they're great
* Everyone is retarded
* I tried to rent a bike. All they had were Harleys. I didn't bother.
* It's getting to the point where I might bother.
* I need a Michigan bike license to buy a bike
* To get a Michigan bike license I need a Michigan car license, since the bike is an entitlement on a car license
* Everyone is trying to sell me something
* Can't go to the pub, because there are no pubs
* Can't get bladdered because you need a car to get anywhere
* If you *do* go to a bar there's always a lad in there, so it costs a dollar to take a piss.
Miss Blighty, miss my bike, and I miss people with a properly developed sense of proportion.
Hi, anyone have a redundant standard radiator guard for a gen 1 1000 fazer, condition not important as long as it is straight.Please P.M me if you can help. Thanks, Gilbert.
I've got me dad looking after Black Bess while I'm in the States, and while she's there I thought I'd task him with a bit of maintenance.
The bolts that hold the exhausts onto the engine, does anyone know what size they are and where I can get a nice set of rustproof stainless ones, with a gasket, too?
I have an advanced riding trainee (female) who needs to lower her new FZ8. Has anyone gone this route or got any advice for her please?
Many thanks
John
I have a Maxton fully adjustable rear shock for sale in immaculate condition which I fitted NEW in August 2010 and has done about 4000 miles from brand new. I had it built for my weight of 80kilos and I went for the more expensive remote reservoir version. I have the Maxton shorter dog bones too, but in some ways they aren't necessary as the shock has an adjustment at the base to alter height and thus castor angle to sharpen steering. I removed these as I had to trade in my much loved Fazer with the dealer. I have pasted the description from the Maxton info that they supply on the Fazer 1000 2001 - 2005.
You'll see I'm referring to the piggy back unit which by the time I bought it had gone up in price to over nearly £700 with the VAT!!. Likewise..the dog bones cost another c.£80 inc the VAT. (The footpegs in the pix are not available for sale)
Anyway, what I can tell you is it TRANSFORMED the handling, improved steering and ride comfort. So steady in the corners and on bumps and didn't run wide any more at all. Totally brilliant! What more can I say...other than if you want to improve the handling, it's unlikely you'd do any better than fit one of these. It's clean and ready to fit which is simple as you probably know. I'm looking for £350 plus p&P for the shock, complete with owners manual and adjusting tool and £35 plus p&p for the dog bones/ tie bars. Of course you can fit the tie bars with your existing shock and it'll sharpen the steering and cornering no end and there's no downside that I could ascertain. And the turn-in was vastly improved. You can call me on 07831 879444.John
REAR The standard unit on the Fazer 1000 is a fairly cheap unit. The damping inside the unit is not too bad it has the correct amount of compression and rebound damping, for the average rider weight. The spring however is too soft, this would cause the bike to sit down under acceleration, this would cause instability at high speeds. We can respring the unit and fit a harder spring to suit the riders weight, this costs £80.00 plus V.A.T. The unit is a sealed unit so the damping cannot be improved, but for what the bike is being used for the damping is O.K. We also supply a replacement Maxton unit is a fully adjustable, alloy bodied, high pressure gas unit that adjusts via shim stack system. The unit has a spring to suit your rider weight and to suit what type of riding you do. The unit is suited to high temperatures because it adjusts via the shim stack not via a needle in a hole system like Ohlins or W.P unit. The unit costs £405.00 plus V.A.T but we also make a piggy back remote reservoir unit that has a second compression adjuster and ride height adjustment which costs £550.00 plus V.A.T. We also supply tie bars to raise the rear ride height, this makes the bike turn a lot quicker and hold a better line out of corners. The tie bars cost £60.00 plus V.A.T a pair. The tie bars are anodised and engraved with the
noo that I've said it I'll need it next time I head out).
