If, like me, you're of a smaller stature than most bike manufacturers want to cater for, you'll probably have found that many bikes have a seat that's so high you can't flat-foot it on both (or even one) side.

Now you could go out and buy yourself a set of Daytona M-Star Boots which are very nice, but also bloody expensive (the cheapest I can see them is about £250 including shipping from Germany!)

So I looked into this and found a couple of better options:

1) Buy a set of "lifts" like these (search eBay for "Heel Lift shoe inserts - Height Increase Insoles" if that link has expired) which can give you up to 1" leg length (provided there's room inside your boots) and cost about £4

2) Go to Timpsons (or any decent cobblers) and ask them to put a heel (not spiked, unless that's your thing ) on your boots. For £30 Timpsons added an inch to my boot heels and it means that I can now flat-foot my FZ6 Fazer on both sides without having to lean it so far over that I have to worry that the weight is going to push it the rest of the way as has happened in the past.

Total cost £35 and a hell of a lot cheaper than a set of Daytona boots!

As listed. brand new £15 plus postage

Hey there,

Long time no post - it is a testament to the reliability of these bikes. '58 S2 ABS 600

Ok, recently I went on holiday for a couple of weeks. When I got back and went to work on my fazer, after a mile or so it started to run on 3 cylinders. Thinking it had got wet and would dry out, I carried on (gently) and back home. This didn't fix it. It runs ok at low load and between 4-8ish k rpm, it will miss if you put throttle on, or stray out of this rev range.

I found the plug cap wasn't properly seated on that cylinder (No. 3 has a cold manifold pipe), so pushed it back on, which was a right PITA (I have a lower fairing which needed to come off). No change. I pulled the plug, looks alright, changed it anyway, no change. Took the lead off and and put the old plug on the lead and started it, swore as 50000 volts went up my arm, used a jump lead to earth the plug, started it and have good spark.

I'm pretty sure now there is no problem electrically.

I presume I am not getting enough fuel through this injector. The injectors are wired in pairs from the ecu as far as I can tell from the wiring diagram, so if there was a fault that end both 2 & 3 would be misfiring. This makes me think the injector on cylinder 3 is now at least partially blocked. Presumably this happened because it stood for a couple of weeks.

Does anyone have any other ideas i have missed? Re: cleaning the injector, I am lucky enough to have an ultrasonic cleaner at work and as many solvents as I need. Is the cleaning procedure just to put it in the bath in ethanol, or does it have to be fired whilst in the bath? Is there a particular solvent I should use?

Thanks!

Ed

NWS or similar exhaust hanger in black satin powder coat. Allows removal of the rear footrest assemblies. £20 plus postage

Hi all, just wondering if one of you guys could do me a favour, son has just passed his A2 bike test which means he is restricted for 2 years to 33bhp. He is thinking of buying a fzs600 and I would like a drawing of the washers that go into the air intake so as I can make some.  Can anyone help me out? 

Hi all, my name is Andy and I ride an fz1 & Live in Leicestershire.


    GREETINGS TO YOU ALL

Having swopped my Fazer 1000 with devilsyam for his CBF125 (don't ask!!!) I have the following parts for sale. All prices plus p and p

Bagster tank bag - BLACK - £40
Pair of genuine mirrors - mint £45
Pair of genuine side panels - black - £20
Givi MONOKEY plate and arms with foam pads - no bolts - £40
Genuine Mint original silencer - £80
Haynes manual - £10
Yamaha sports rack - mint - with fixings but can't find rubber pads for under rack - £30
Rear shock - very clean, corrosion free - no leaks £15

email HarrisBikeNut@aol.com for more details.

Regards
Bob

hi all ,i got a stainless downtube for te great farjo with 2 collets (the part that bolt to head)broken i spent a good few hours sitting and cleaning the exhaust and welded the collets back together(done a great job if i do say so myself!) gone to fit tis morning and all going well untill one of the other collets broke! i checked these before fitting and there was no cracks etc and i didnt tigten them up that much so just wondered has anyone else had this problem?  meens iv now got to remove eaders again and repair this doh :'(

Had a slight problem on a track day this week. (well had a couple actualy but will stick to this one )
on the 2nd session of the day i had brake fade heading in to hawthorns and the next 2-3 corners.
lever back to bar and 0 front brake. by the 4th corner brakes were back to full strength and apart from another smaller amount of fade in the 3rd session of the day (just for 1 corner i lost bite but still had some brakes) the brakes were fine the rest of the day.

New pads 2 months ago (1500ish miles i think) and new fluids last year
i cant remember what pads i put in though as it was done with the MOT and i told them to put some pads in. did not tell them what type. i want to say they were carbon lorraine as that was is on the display rack behind counter but im not 100% sure

never had it on road and to be honest i think i only had it on track because i was not hitting the brakes hard enough. this ment i was on the brakes for longer (but softer) so they got hotter. in the 1st session i hardly used the brakes and the last 2 sessions i was harder on the brakes and had no fade.

dont know if this makes sense though.
So whats the best way to counter it? or am i correct and it was my poor use of the brakes that were the problem?

Just thought i would post a word of warning to anyone useing the preasure valve caps that turn green /red if the psi drops
i have used the for a couple of years without an issue but i was on a track day this week and as i was going in to westfield bend at brands the valve stem on my tyre sheared off and dumped all my air.
affter a trip to the gravel trap ( scrubbed most of the speed off before i went in and stayed upright through luck not skill) and a new pair of pants it was clear the valve stem had cracked from the added weight of the valve cap.
I was lucky they had a tyre place in the pits who fitted a new stem and i was back out on track next session but he made it clear he also thought the cap was the cause.

as i say i have used them for a couple of years and not had a problem but i will not use them again thats for sure.