Hey guys,

I'm having problems with my fzs600 fazer 98 model. I went out today with a few friends with 600's for the first time (only had the bike a few weeks) and there acceleration and speed where so much better than mine (bandit 600 & 650). I had a go on the 650 and it was miles better acceleration than mine.

Because of the weather it has been the first chance for me to test out the performance properly. I decided to see on the way home how fast I could get out of it and all I could manage was 85mph it would not go any faster

I got the bike on eBay !! (I know). It's done 23k miles and I just put new down pipes on it so I know it's not been restricted from the exhaust or anything.

If anyone could help me or point me in the right direction of the cause I would really appreciate it.

Ben

Hello,


I owned a fazer 600 several years ago and I now have been thinking about buying an early Fazer1000 


I have always liked the look of them and the awesome R1 derived engine!


Are there any major problems with these bikes? I have heard that the finish can be a bit suspect and the exup valve can cause problems?


I'm only looking for models from their introduction in 2001? up to the FZ1 model can you tell me about any differences and mods between the models?


Thanks guys! 

I've just realised my MOT has run out in December [pre][/pre]

I'm getting a new bike 15th , I'm part exchanging my bike.

Now should I get it MOTed to be safe or risk driving it without one?  Till new one arrives?

What is the fine or implications if I get caught without MOT ?

**Like of total duffist, I found this info in the service manual Doh!, still don't understand the Co adjustment though **

Folks,

was wondering arounf the net and came across this thought it maybe helpful I've listed mine below for a working FZ1s, you access them by

holding down Select +Reset buttons switch on the ignition, keep holding the buttons down till Di appears on the display, then hold down the buttons again for approx 2secs to access either Di or CO, there seems a bit of discussion regarding the CO values, and there significance,
Regarding the Di codes foes anybody know what the a faulty injector or coil pack will return ?

[table]  [tr] [td]

As the subject suggests I am looking for a fazer 1000 rear calliper to replace the shit rear one on my 600.

Dunky...........

finally seen the light after 2 years and got myself another fazer. looking forward to been part of the community again.

laters

hi people happy new year all    right i have a notion of painting the engine of my 01 fzs 600  has any one ever done this and how did they go about it :groan  what is the best type of paint to use and how to apply it (brush or spraying )  any ideas /help will be appreciated  :thumbup  thanks swem                     

Toolkit - the standard one is a joke.  What do you really need in case of a problem ???
[size=78%] [/size]
With a little bit of touring undertaken this year it got me thinking about what tools I should carry on the bike.  I've googled the subject and a lot of the reading was for the adventure bike heroes on their BMW GS going round the world.  With some people recommending taking my own lathe to allow me to fabricate a new bike I thought I could come up with my own list.
[size=78%] [/size]
Getting a little more scientific on this …looking at the RAC website, the top two reasons they get called out are for a flat battery and a flat tyre.  Out of interest here's the top reasons (for cars):
[size=78%] [/size]
[size=1.35em]Fault                                                        No of breakdowns[/size]
[size=1.35em]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/size]
[size=1.35em]Punctured tyre                                            194,549[/size]
[size=1.35em]Jumpstart (flat battery)                                177,916[/size]
[size=1.35em]Dead battery (replacement required)          130,575[/size]
[size=1.35em]Road Traffic Accident                                90,263[/size]
[size=1.35em]Engine fault                                                67,881[/size]
[size=1.35em]No fault found (driver error)                        64,773[/size]
[size=1.35em]Alternator fault                                            58,887[/size]
[size=1.35em]Starter Motor fault                                      57,380[/size]
[size=1.35em]Clutch – Assembly                                      51,969[/size]
[size=1.35em]Interior lights left on (flat battery)                  48,681[/size]
[size=1.35em]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------[/size]
[size=1.35em]                                                    Total        942,874[/size]

[size=1.35em]The other big reason for a breakdown was also running our of fuel, also putting diesel in a petrol car.  I'd hope us bikers don;t suffer from the latter but the former is very applicable as we have relatively small tank ranges, so running out of fuel would likely be a key reason for a breakdown. [/size]
[size=78%] [/size]
[size=1.35em]Put this into perspective: puncture, flat battery and dead battery take up 53% of the breakdowns.  (503,040 / 942,874 = 53%) I'm going to be cynical here and assume that RAC swap “dead” batteries when really they just need a charge,  beside were looking at getting home here – not basic servicing of the bike.  [/size]
[size=78%] [/size]
[size=1em]I thought about this and how to be realistic about repairing things on the road, and at what stage are you just carrying stuff for the sake of it and the chances of using the spare is so small it's not worth taking the items.

I looked at the types of jobs I’d realistically need to do and also what kind of pickle I could get myself out of, for example some of the adventure guys talked about taking locking pliers as they could be used as an emergency brake/clutch lever replacement.  But even to travel 1 mile down a road I wouldn't be happy using a set of locking pliers holding onto the stub of a broken lever.  Once you start thinking about repairing broken radiators, straightening forks and other major items I really thought these adventure bike lists were beyond the needs of a road rider.

My toolkit is in the photo below

<< insert photo of tools on workbench >>

All of this fits *easily* in the under seat area and makes a nice setup.  I'll take a photo of how it's stored tomorrow so people can see how it all fits together. [/size]
[size=1em]
To save space you want to use screwdriver bits and hex bits.  That way you can have a good set of bits that take up a small amount of space.  Remember a bit holder though !  I went over the bike and looked at amny of the bolts / nuts to see what sizes I needed to be able to adjust many items on the bike.  i.e. How would you lift the tank, how would you remove the battery, how would you access the lights, how would you adjust the chain …

You'll find that a range of scewdriver bits and some sockets gets you a long way... I've listed below the main items I have but a few call out items are:

Long zip ties – around 30 / 40cm long. These slip down the side of the rear fairing and would come in v. useful to attach something to the bike, like a broken side panel should you have dropped the bike.

Another point is – when looking at puncture repair kits, make sure you pliers to pull out the nail /item that casued the puncture.  Some repair kits don't come with these.

Anyway, have a look through the list – it might be a useful starting point for those going on a big trip in the future.

Motorcycle Toolkit – my original thoughts, then the reality / cost kicked in.

========================================
The purpose is to have enough to "get me home" should an problem happen.  A roadside get me home, not a full repair.  Want to use quality items as they would also be used for general servicing of the bike. 
[/size]

• [size=1em]Wera Zyklop ratchet (or similar - has large head, may not be great as screwdriver),[/size]
  

• • [li][size=1em] ** Zyklop is expensive and a simple 1/4” or 3/8” ratchet would do.
    [/size]
    
  [/li]
  

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I'm looking for a pair of Foxeye fairing infills if anyone has some the want to sell.

A few months back there was someone who'd had one of those great thick stainless steel header clamps fracture and thought at the time it was a bit odd since they're not under a huge amount of stress. Anyway, I went out to move the bike the other day and heard an odd "ting, ting"... and soon discovered the cause was exactly the same thing: a two-thirds segment of the ring was hanging from the downpipe under the engine and enjoying a new life as a musical instrument.





I managed to pull the remains off at a point where the pipe was slightly flattened and puzzled as to how to repair it since putting a replacement on would involve cutting the pipe and rewelding... I can't weld thin mild steel let alone stainless to gas-tight standards. Then I remembered I'd an old set of Motad downpipes with the clamps still present, so cut them off and made a couple of sections with enough of an open portion to get on to the tube.





Marked up the ends to lap the two halves together and got busy with hacksaw and file:





After an hour or so and a small blister I'd two half clamps that fitted together reasonably well:





They spread apart a bit when bolted on because the holes are so much larger than the header studs, but not so much that it's a problem.





It'll be interesting to see how long this bodge lasts, but I didn't fancy paying out £170+ for a new set of downpipes.
Incidentally, these are the ones Sandy Bikespares sell and the clamps are about 6mm thick compared with the old Motad pipes which have 8mm thick clamps (and hopefully of better quality steel since they're now effectively 4mm).