I was trying to balance my throttle bodies today on my FZ6-SA 2006.
I hooked all the gauges to cylinger 1 to calibrate them and worked out the differences in readings. no problems.
But when I came to actually trying to balance them, I did have a problem.
Here's the set up...
I'd checked the idle speed, tweaked the adjusters on the adapters so the needles on the gauges were just not jittering, blipped the throttle a couple of times then let them settle, but no matter what I tried and how much I altered the throttle screws, for some reason I simply could not get much movement on the gauges and certainly not enough to get the readings even nearly the same
I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Anyone got any helpful suggestions?
Living in Wales I have not been able to ride further than five miles from home during the lockdown. The First Minister has announced that from Monday July 6th unrestricted travel will be allowed, so long as the Covid-19 situation does not deteriorate. In the letters section of MCN this week a contributor has stated that he had a puncture 250 miles from home and called out the AA. Fortunately the AA operative was able to fix the puncture but stated that had it not been repairable he could have taken the bike to a chosen destination but not the rider. The rider cannot get in the cab of either the van or a low loader, so where is the bike taken, and of course the rider is left stranded miles from home. Some breakdown services talk of taxis and hire cars but as a non driver this is not an option for me. 99% of my riding is done alone, so I can't even ride pillion to get home. I had not thought about the issue until I read the letter, but as things stand I wont feel comfortable riding again from July 6th. The prospect of being stranded is a real worry.
Lifelong biker from up North. I've had my 2nd Generation FZ1S from new in 2008.
The wind noise has annoyed me from new. It's really annoying when doing long continental trips.
I got an MRS screen a few year back and I might as well have taken £100 out of my wallet and thrown it into the wind.
I bought a new helmet recently and the wind noise was atrocious. I stretched up a few inches and it stopped.
I took a hacksaw to the MRS screen so it just covers the fairing. Now it's brilliant 80MPH, with earplugs in, is whisper quiet.
Mods I've done to the bike:-
Taper roller steering bearings. Why aren't they standard?
The front pads clunked on the bike from new. EBC ones cured that.
I fitted a Scottoiler straight away and still have the standard chain.
I didn't like the doohicky that Scottoiler sold to oil both sides of the chain. It looked like an accident waiting to launch itself into the rear sprocket
so I drilled 2x 2.5mm holes, diametrically opposed, in the rear sprocket in the corner of the step where the thickness changes.
The holes have to be cleared out with an airline every so often but it keeps the far side of the chain nice and wet.
I have an Airhawk inflatable seat thingy. The standard seat is a torture device after less than an hour and I couldn't ride without the Airhawk seat pad. The std can with the butterfly valve is a big, heavy, ugly piece of crap. I have never stalled a bike so much in my life because the damn thing is gutless at low revs because of the butterfly valve. I left the catalytic converter in the pipe and fitted a Beowolf can. No change to engine mapping in any way. It sounds brutal. It pops and bangs like a bastid but it goes well and has done for many miles. I've had a couple of batteries. I tried a Motobatt gel battery which was great when new [size=0.7em]but[/size] after a couple of years it just stopped working. It's weird. I still have it in the garage and I use it to test bulbs, horns etc, but it won't turn the engine over. Very strange. [size=0.7em]So that's my bike in a nutshell. Without the wind noise and with the comfy seat I absolutely love this bike. The half fairing is enough to keep the draught off and,[/size] [size=0.7em]at 63, the bike is quick enough for me. It's a bit thirsty. The fuel light flashing and the odometer zeroing is useless if you don't know how far you can go before it stops. [/size] [size=0.7em]I've been meaning to run it dry with a can on the back to see how far you can get but hey, I've only had it 12 years. Give me a chance. [/size]
I've change the plugs for Iridium ones and the consensus is that they are an expensive waste of time. All I've done to the engine in 30,000 is change the oil and filters. If I have the tank tilted up I will pull the plug caps off and squirt some WD40 at them. I've seen them seize on and end up being destroyed trying to get them off.
Hello, been a long time since I was on here and I wish to remove my profile as I no longer have a Fazer nor do I use the group anymore.
Can you advise how I delete my profile and stop receiving emails?
Thank you.
My 04 FZS 1000 for sale. 40k miles, R6 shock, wilburs progressive fork springs, flat bars, bar end mirrors, originals to go with the bike.I'm near Northampton, price is £2k.
So I thought id share my experience with you as an example of necessity is the mother of invention or in truth borne out of a cock up on my part.
I have a fzs600 2001 its really my winter hack bike , done a few oil changes but on my last one just over a year back I messed up and overtightened the sump plug, resulting in some stripped threads as it weeps but no more than weeps oil past the threads, were talking 3-4 teaspoons over 10-14 days so perfectly livaeble with for a winter hack. I had the idea of helicoil but you cant helicoil in situ and if you are taking the sump pan off may as well buy a second hand sump pan with plug from a breaker . So that was my origional option.
Trouble is ,as you know, you cant take the sump off without removing the exhaust, ok if your header bolts are going to play ball.
Mine certainly werent.
Mine had clearly been off once before at least and fought back in the process duly snapping off as was evident by the shortened stumps and motley collection of ugly nuts and studs, so I was not keen to mess with that !
So how else can you do an oil change without draining ?
Well if you take off the cluch cover , underneath the clutch drum are two slots about 9 mm slots around 20mm long, these allow fresh oil put in to drain back into the sump.
If you can lean the bike over the opposite way to the side stand and about the same lean as on the side stand all the oil comes to that side of the bike.
I got a 12v syphon pump for oil and used 8 mm clear pipe and using the two slots fed the pipe into the sump and moved it around as much as you can and syphoned 3.5 litres of old oil out the same as the manual says to put in following oil & filter change , of cousre I changed the filter too.
Its a bit of a pfaff setting the bike up to do it but its a once a year job and just as sucesful as traditional drain , I got the same qty of oil out as I would have, got to live with the origional sump weep but a weep is all it is.
Just thought id show how I overcame my initial idiocy with the origional overtightening.
Taking off the exhaust to change sump pan would have proded the “satan of stud bolts” im certain to shear opening the worse of all jobs to tackle.with rusty weak already stumps of header bolts !
Leave well alone !
Ok, I have my newly powdercoated wheels sitting here, all bearings and seals fitted, just waiting for the discs to go back on, so this is kind of urgent. I need the torque settings for the front and rear disc bolts, I'm not going to just hammer them up like the last guy must have done. Anyone help??
Hi guys, I have just seen the following link on Ebay whilst searching for a replacement EXUP valve as mine is seized to death and wondered does this thing actually work or is it another gimmick?
