my trusty 98 600 boxeye has developed a problem...it sounds as if its steam powered,its had a bit of a whining gearbox since i bought it approx 18 years ago,today i fitted new chain and sprockets and this has highlighted the sound,pulling away and changing up through the box it sounds like a steam engine until wind noise drowns it out,chain is properly adjusted, with the sprockets inline and with the correct amount of slack. (30-40mm )...looking back through the service history before i owned it, it mentions the chain was way too tight so i thinking ive got a bit of play in the output shaft bearing maybe caused by the tight chain all those years ago...new front sprocket (jt) was a very snug fit and i think i would have noticed any play but i think my first  job will be to remove the sprocket cover, remove the chain and check for any play....your thoughts please foccers

This is the odometer LCD module that is damaged on my bike. I am assuming the mileage is stored within the odometer assembly.


I'm handy with a soldering iron/electronics so was thinking of buying a replacement speedometer assembly, desoldering the lcd unit and then swapping it out with my bad one. Anyone done this? Is the speedo unit easy to strip down?


If you have a unit going cheap, let me know.


Dean

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Cover that bolts to the silcencer and covers the exup valve wanted if anyones got one hanging around? Thanks

I guess I’m starting to miss my Fazer.  She’s sorn and was lying abandoned at the side of the garage while I tried to make up my mind what to do about her.  So, travel restriction has been lifted this weekend in Scotland, but guess what – it’s pissing down.  So, I started fiddling.

There’s no hurry here.  Just do one thing at a time, and as I please or not.  Of course, I worry I might start breaking things.  If I do, or I get bored, I can always off-load her – presumably.  Also there is still space for another a bike – I keep searching e-bay…………..hmmm.

Having bought the FZS1000 zero miles pre-reg in 2004, the one thing I regret is not popping the downpipes off a dozen years ago or so!  Looking at them now I’m thinking – just leave em.  I’m guessing some of them will just snap if I try.

So, radiator is off, for a clean up and a lick of paint.  Wondering if I should treat the bike to a new set of hoses.  I’ve seen the Samco stuff – but umm, 175 quid a set!  Is there anything else out there?

And, has anybody managed to change the wee short hose behind the downpipes – that is without first removing the downpipes?  Can it be done.  I take it all the other hoses are straightforward?

doing up old bikes is fun most of the time. some things however.... :'( :'( :'( :'(

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Not sure of the wheel colour, but it has had a ground up restoration and is immaculate. Better than the Gold one I was looking at


Only issue is the odometer is buggered, LCD is damaged.

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So someone suggested this to me and I was like, as I have done an front-fairing conversion on an FZS600 in the past Im thinking the N-to-S should also be possible.
So parts off the top of my head -

• Front fairing - 3C3-Y283G-0P-P4 (black metalic)
  
• Windscreen - 3C3-28381-00
  
• Mirrors - 3C3-26290-10/3C3-26280-10
  
• Sub-frame - 5D0-28356-00
  
• Headlight - 3C3-84310-10
  
• subloom - 5D0-84359-00
  
• Infills - 3C3-2836L-00/3C3-2836K-00
  
• infill brackets - (left-3C3-2836A-00/3C3-2834F-00) & (right-3C3-2836A-00/3C3-2835U-00)
  

After doing a bunch of work on my FZ6, yesterday I took it for a ride around the block and everything was working.


I got home, picked up some stuff, tried to start it and... nothing


I switch on the ignition, press the starter and I can hear the relay click, but it won't turn over. I have had this problem before and usually if I put the side stand down and flick it back up so it gives the bike a jolt, that sorts it out (or, switching it off and switching it back on again...!)


But none of these are working now, however if I bump start it, it runs fine.


The side stand switch and clutch switch seem fine and the neutral light on the instruments comes on.


I wanted to check the neutral switch as well, but I can't actually find it! The Haynes manual says it's "on the back of the engine", but the accompanying picture is useless and I can't identify any of the components in it to figure out where the switch is supposed to be


Can anyone suggest a solution or, at least, tell me where the neutral switch actually is (preferably with a useful picture!) so I can eliminate that? If the problem is none of the above, I may have to try removing the starter motor and checking that out...

Read a review of the Chainmate (http://www.chainmate.co.uk) in August's Ride Mag. and decided to give a go.  No overspray, no bits of greasy cardboard- does exactly as it says on the tin. I think I should recover the £23 in savings on chain lube, but it may take some time!Great piece of kit & highly recommended.Rob

So I posted a few months ago about getting an FZS600. Coronavirus has got in the way of everything including my bike test, but I do have an update on the bike.


Due to lockdown I haven't seen the bike yet. Off to view it tomorrow. It was finally MOTd yesterday with no advisories. It has had a service including ultrasonic carb clean/new rubbers. Friend paid £350 for this, so he is now asking £1400 for the bike (was £1150 originally).


I'll get some better photos taken tomorrow, but here is an old one of it.

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