Found this on ebay -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283945556570?ul_noapp=true

Ive spoken to the seller, essentially what you have is a 2006 with 22k on the clock that needs a replacement frame for 2k. Basically the insurance company were a bunch of fucking idiots, that mistook flaking paint for a fault with the main frame and just wrote it off for no sane logical reason.

• Here is one for £900 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZ1-Fa...SwKgZdQZNH
  
• Here is another for £770 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Support...SwcWJbzfxF
  

Hi! i'm Papa Wheelie....Started with OEM as shown... All mods self installed. All body work and exhaust designed and chopped from stock parts by me including my secret 6 hp gain exhaust mod. Vertex aluminum 4 up 1 down on a 420 2 extra link chain, Dale's jet kit with pods over velocity stacks and 4° advance. Cat and exhaust recirculation removed. Intake boots ported. Kevlar clutch with +20% springs and R6 1/6th turn throttle, Galfer steel braided brake lines and rear rotor, Two Yana Shiki front rotors, Healtech Quick Shifter, Gear indicator and Speedo corrector, All LED lighting includes Hikari Ultras h4's up front and my own custom modified 1157 tube insertions in the rear, Aluminum adjustable kickstand and wishbones allowing 3-1/2" lowering capability with a tie down or normal street operation. Bike has lost 27 kilos due to chops and parts replacements and turned a 9.9 sec / 142mph quarter at sea level.

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I don't know about you, but I HATE those stupid plastic connectors which Yamaha has used to link multiple wires. Some you have to push down on a tab to release the catch, others you need to lift a tab *up* to release the catch...

But, whatever you have to do with them, they're an utter ba$$$$d to undo!  :wall :wall :wall


So, has anyone used dielectric grease on them to help them release more easily?


I know the grease is non-conductive, but, when you push two connectors together, the grease gets "scraped off" between the metal contacts to ensure there is continuity.

Would putting it on those plastic connectors be a good idea?

PS: No, I'm *not* going to use Vaseline - a) it degrades any rubber it comes into contact with, b) it melts when it gets hot and c) it's petroleum based, so could, theoretically catch fire!!  :eek

Been bikeless for a few months and feel the need for a cheap runaround and fancy a Fazer 600.


Had a couple of Gen 1 thou's that Mike Ivanised and loved them both before going down the adventure bike route.


Now I find them all a bit OTT in both height and weight and have too much fancy electrics. I'd really like something more basic!


Budget is £2000. Not so concerned with mileage but would need to be in decent condition.


I don't have time unfortunately to be driving all over the country looking at them so would prefer something in the South West as I'm in Torquay.


Really not in a rush but if one comes up I can act quickly as Boris was kind enough to donate some funds.....

So while the mrs and my daughter were away for the day i was bored and decided to have a look at the stock end can thats sitting about. It was pretty tatty looking so I set about painting it just for something to do really. I keyed it in and used some halfords high temp black metallic stuff which actually ended up looking pretty good.


The exup valve needed a bit of persuasion and once freed and cleaned it was opening and snapping shut like new, so then I wondered what it would be like on the bike (plus getting it hot would properly cure the paint). The PO left cables on the servo so i hooked it all up and ran the diagnostics and it operated fine. Other than diagnostic mode i didnt see it operate once in neutral at revs but i think this is normal (or so ive read)


I thought it didnt sound bad at all, a different tone but no quieter than the scorpion with the baffle in. i took it out and i didnt really notice a drop in performance (although I hadnt ridden it for over a month) Still bored i thought id put the scorpion back on so i could test them back to back...this time i did notice a difference and it seemed to pick up a lot lower down the revs and just pull better all round...


So there you go, in my opinion the slip on wins out, looks better and is a lot lighter!

I have a Lust lowering kit, 2 linkage arms for sale that I bought for a TDM 900 but no longer have the bike,not sure if they would fit any other model or make?
They are new and unopened. £30 If anyone is interested.

Anyone got a sports rack or similar for a Gen 1 Fazer 1000 they want to sell?

[smg id=3436 type=preview align=center caption="my little baby"]

Saw this in Facebook -

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/ite...778213240/

Been using Gloop/Slime type product in both front and rear tyres of my bike for the last 3 years without problem but last week noticed the rear was losing pressure quite regularly.
Managed to rotate the wheel through a tray of water and traced the leak to air escaping at the rim.
Took the wheel off and dropped it into my local bike shop for investigation.
The anti-puncture fluid was corroding the alloy wheel internal surface and causing the rim to lose seal. After a wash out and refitting with new valve (valve was corroding as well) and using a rim sealing paste all is now back to normal.
I've now invested in a can of TyreWeld to keep with the bike but am looking to back this up with a repair kit of sticky laces and a mini compressor as a belt and braces approach.
Been looking at the RAC/AA mini compressor for about £15 from Amazon which has mixed reviews.
Be interested to learn what other riders are using before purchasing anything.
Thanks in advance for any info.