Been loving this one on another site.


Basically puns using Hospital or medicine with Film Titles..................


My favourites so far to start you off..............


[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)] [/color][color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]Bridget Jones' Diarrhoea.[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)][/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)]The Men Who Stare At Throats[/color]
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)][/color]
and two from me............


Saving Ryan's Privates


Enema of the State........................ followed by................. INGLOURIOUS FAST TURDS  !!!    :rollin :lol
[color=rgb(51, 51, 51)][/color]

Just thought I'd put this thread on as I had to search around a bit for info when looking to change my chain and sprockets on my 03.


This is what a knackered front sprocket with the old 9mm nut looks like:-





You can see that there is a small bit of the output shaft protruding past the end of the nut. Mine wasn't loose (far from it :eek ), but I sought to change it anyway for safety sake. The new nut and washer cost me a total of £2.25 from a Yamaha dealer. The correct part number is 90891-10124 and it comes as a nut and washer kit. The old part number is
90179-18020 and comes as just the 9mm nut which is what another Yamaha dealer tried to sell me (for twice the price of the correct part :thumbdown )




The new 12mm nut on a new sprocket looks like this:





As you can see there is no shaft protruding past the end of the nut and I can tell you there is a lot more thread on the shaft on the inside.


The two nuts side by side to show the difference:





I couldn't find any photos etc online to show the difference hence this post.




You may have watched many Youtube videos telling you all sorts of different things to do it, as a home mechanic I thought I'd share a few tips for those about to tackle this for the first time. It's not a How To Guide, just some tips and info that might help someone else out


I bought my kit from M&P for about £105 and as a heavy duty chain it is a rivet type so you will definitely need a heavy duty chain tool to rivet it together. (I borrowed one from one of the guys at work as we're all bikers.)


The first thing you want to do before cutting the chain is to get the front sprocket nut off. If it isn't loose due to the 9mm problem then you are probably going to need something heavy duty to get it off. The torque settings in Haynes say it should be 70nm, but something clearly happens to them with heat or whatever because it is easily the hardest nut I've ever had to get off, this includes the hub nuts on my 40 year old car :eek . When I couldn't budge it I checked the torque and it was more than 150nm which is as far as my torque wrench goes!


It is quite easy to get it off if you have the right equipment. I wrapped a crowbar in a cloth and laid it across the top of the swingarm through the rear wheel. This keeps the wheel from turning and there is no need to stand on the rear brake. I then made sure the tab washer was as flat against the sprocket as I could get it and used a good quality 32mm socket with a hexagonal face so it fit the nut perfectly. With a normal socket wrench on this I could stand my full 16st on it and the nut won't even move. You need physics to help here and using a 3ft breaker bar does the job quite easily 8) . Note that this nut tightens up quite quickly as I originally had to re-use the old nut while I rode to the dealers to get the new one, a total journey of 6 miles and the nut was back on solidly.


Loosen the rear axle bolt and adjust your rear wheel as far forward as you can which helps when you put the new (shorter) chain on. Then I put my foot on the chain below the swingarm to hold it taut and cut it with an angle grinder.


I know all the videos a say that when you put the new chain on you need to attach it to the old one to feed it through easily. Not really needed on the Fazer as it's quite an easy path and you can just do it by hand saving a lot of faffing connecting and breaking again.


When you are connecting the new chain I put the link in above the swing arm then rotated the wheel so that the link is on the rear sprocket as it helps with grip and stops the chain twisting when you're applying pressure to connect it with the chain tool.


To tighten up the front sprocket nut I just moved the crowbar to below the swingarm and rest it across the chain and torque arm to stop the wheel turning.


The rest of the process is quite straight forward and the rear sprocket is nothing like as difficult to get off as the front, nuts are torqued to 60nm according to Haynes.






Google links


FZS600 front sprocket nut
2003 FZS600 chain and sprockets
removing front sprocket nut

Hi,


I appear to have lost a couple of fairing screws. Anyone know where I can get some more? I've seen some on eBay but I'm not sure they're the right ones.


In the meantime, the damn thing rattles like buggery at low RPM!


Thanks,


David.

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One of these days, I'll start a thread about how great my bike is, and how I'm glad that I don't have any more issues with it....
Due to crap weather, and living away at uni, my bike didn't really get much of a run out for Christmas, and pretty much just sat for a few weeks.  In the new year, I started the bike up and got it all running fine (it seemed), and went out for a ride.  After a short burst down the road, it was pretty clear that there were some issues. 
At below 4k ish rpm, the engine just sounds like it isn't firing properly - it doesn't stop or anything, it just sounds quiet and like one/more of the cylinders arn't firing.  Generally when the bike is cold it seems to start fine, sounds fine etc, it's just after those first few minutes of riding that it becomes a problem.


I tried trimming the end off the ht leads, which doesn't seem to have made a difference. I topped up the oil and coolant to see if that might help, but it didn't.  I haven't had the plugs out, as I've got a crap plug socket from Halfords which is barely long enough to grip the plugs, and they seem in fairly tight, but they are fairly new (maybe 2k miles old).


From what I've read online, it sounds like it's likely to be an ignition coil issue.  As someone that doesn't currently have a multimetre handy, what would people say is the next step?  Are there any Fazer specific issues that might be causing this I should look into?
I don't want to jump in and spend £50 odd on new coils to find that it makes no difference, but could probably get my hands on a multimetre if people think that's the best way to go.


Oh, and I'm a student, due to graduate in the summer, so cheapest option to keep me going till I can get a job+some income is ideally what I'm after!


As always, thanks for any help people can offer!


HazzaBui

Nice sunny day today. Not too cold.

Of course today I had to do a blinkin' long journey in the cage. It's tomorrow when I'm taking the bike in for a service & MOT.

...tomorrow, when it is going to be hissing down and freezing.

:rolleyes

Spotted this, for any foccers interested in the mod:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YamahaYZF-1000...3cd7b52bbc

Hi,


Just in the process of sorting out ownership of an early Fazer 600; looking forward to it, although getting the shakes from entering a stage of my biking life where I won't own a Kawasaki  :eek   (have owned an fzr250 3ln, briefly)


Anyhoo, talking about Kawasaki, has any one put the front end from a ZX6R F, or even ZZR600 E, onto a Fazer?


Same diameter fork stanchions, slightly different lengths - the Kwaks being longer, but can always have the tops protruding.


The 6r has fully adjustable forks, so lowers needed, not sure about wheels, but the zzr only has preload so may be possible to fit them in the Fazer lowers.


Dave

I thought it may help me to model my project in CAD, to work on a few details. However, I was unable to find any files for the Fazer (any model, bar the 250) to give me a starting point!

So, I thought I'd start a group initiative: model the bikes in 3D, to make a full CAD model that users can then use for precisely my kind of project (or even details like checking fits of new parts!).

I shall start on the FZS600, although certain parts will carry over to the Thou (and other bikes I'm sure!).

I have a copy of Autodesk Inventor 2013 on my laptop, but if we agree on a common file standard, I'm sure most CAD programs will open the files.

Anyone with me on this?

I think it looks no bad:

http://www.detailingnation.com/content.php?1595

im not too sure I would want it recording all ym riding 24/7 though...and that lane departure system and PEBS would probably do my tits in.

certainly wouldnt tempt me off the :faz

Hi guys, just joined up after buying an '02 600. returning to a bike after 10yrs hoping for lots of tips on keeping it running sweet.

All the best

Ian

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