Cylinder Compression...

[anutz]

looks like i best get my hands on the kit to do a leak down test then...

[Fazerider]

The internal volume of the adapter, hose and anything else ahead of a non-return valve will reduce the compression reading. That includes any portion of the plug hole that the spark plug would normally fill that the tester adapter does not, i.e. if the plugs have a long threaded portion and the tester adapter does not you will get a low reading.
The volume of the cylinder with the piston at TDC is only about 20cc, if the tester adds even 10cc that’ll reduce the reading by a third.

[anutz]

Will bear that in mind.


Main thing i am bothered about now is not the reading but where the leaking is...


Have a leak down kit on the way, so with the air compressor i have, should be able to find the culprit...

[tommyardin]

Hi Anutz,
Keep us informed on what you find, and as Fazerider said if the end of the compression tester dose not completely fill the plug hole length then it will show a low compression reading, but they still should be all around the same reading, it is best down with all the plugs out because the other 3 pots under compression when testing will stop/slow the engine from spinning at max speed especially if the battery is a wee bit low.
Try it with 10ml of oil in each barrel after the initial test.

[anutz]

Will do...


Have a Air Compressor that will provide 150PSI, well above what i need, and i have the leak down test tool, just need a 1/4 inch BSP Male adapter now that i should get today i think, so will post some pics/video when i do the tests etc...

[anutz]

Update

Got my hands a compressor and leak down tester...

All pistons were sound, 10-15% leak, only out of bores, no hint of any noise else where

So, I put it back together and re-checked the clearances...

It still is hard to start, but once it starts and warms up, then its fine i.e. no hesitation, and power on tap, so I'm a little miffed...

It just seems to need a right old handful of throttle and then screams into life, engine is smooth, no strange noises, really is fine, timing is 100% spot on, I think the low compression readings were not that low

Speaking to an MOT tester, who has a fzs1000, he has seen a few with readings like that, and they have had no issue, but who knows...

So for now, its summer and I think after a full ride out tomorrow it will do...

I am going to turn my attention to a carb rebalance and changing fuel filter tmrw, don't really want to mess with carbs if it runs well now...

Would love to figure it out

The Leak down test stuff was intresting, and the kit cost me 150 all in i.e. compressor, leakdown tool, decent adapters for coupling....so not been a bad learning thingy

Will have a look at how much the compression tester encroaches on the compressed cylinder volume as sonmeon said that can throw of readings mayde that's whats happened to me...

[PieEater]

It just seems to need a right old handful of throttle and then screams into life, engine is smooth, no strange noises, really is fine, timing is 100% spot on, I think the low compression readings were not that low

Sorry to ask the obvious but have you checked the EXUP is working 100%?

[anutz]

yep that's all fine and dandy - one of the first jobs I did, moves freely and at the right RPM's as well....

I have not looked at the carbs or fuel supply at all, and need to check the air box/filter, but not much else I can think of...

And if it runs fine, I am at the point where as long as It can start i.e. not leave me stranded, I will be happy....its too nice to have it not out on the road at the moment

[unfazed]

Maybe it is your starting technigue.
Compared to the 600 the 1000 is a cold creature.
As standard they need full choke and a bitt of throttle to start when cold, then needs a few minutes to warm up and sometime ride off with half choke for a mile or two, whereas the 600 just needs a bit of throttle and will ride away immediately.

[anutz]

So been out, riding past 2 days, and its got power and seems ok, however literally put the bike away an hour ago, go to turn it over to check some things, and withing 5-6 seconds the battery is buggered, relay clicking like mad.


I have ridden for an hour or so before coming home so it should be charged i would think


I measured the voltage ant its 12.4 ish, so seems fine, but as soon as i touch the started, drops to 0v very quickly...


was reading around about electrical gremilins, http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=15299.0


I wonder if this is all due to the battery not having the ability to turn the crank over, and supply good sparks etc


Not tested the voltages of the reg/rec or the battery when it runs, as waiting for the damn thing to charge, if it ever will


how can it read 12.4v and then not work i.e. drain to 0v when i touch it..????


:'(

[The Male Whale]

So been out, riding past 2 days, and its got power and seems ok, however literally put the bike away an hour ago, go to turn it over to check some things, and withing 5-6 seconds the battery is buggered, relay clicking like mad.


I have ridden for an hour or so before coming home so it should be charged i would think


I measured the voltage ant its 12.4 ish, so seems fine, but as soon as i touch the started, drops to 0v very quickly...


was reading around about electrical gremilins, http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=15299.0


I wonder if this is all due to the battery not having the ability to turn the crank over, and supply good sparks etc


Not tested the voltages of the reg/rec or the battery when it runs, as waiting for the damn thing to charge, if it ever will


how can it read 12.4v and then not work i.e. drain to 0v when i touch it..????


:'(

Cos it's fucked!

You have at least one cell gone down.

Plenty of Voltage, no amperage.

Get a new battery then test the charging circuit to ensure it's not the reg/rec that has taken the battery out.

Whale

[anutz]

may explain all the issues i been having starting - weak sparks/cranking etc


will get a new battery and test the reg/rect