Riding home from work tonight for some reason thought I'd try the rear brake with a bit of effort (as I normally only use it at low speeds) 'just to see that it still works'.
Only going ca. 10 mph I pressed pedal and rear locked up (ABS did not appear to activate - maybe too low speed?). I did this twice and then carried on...a couple of hundred yards later decelerating for a junction the bike started to slow down by itself!
Rear brake was was on and pads smoking. :\
Hmmm - I released the pressure via the bleed nipple which obviously released the piston pressure. Tried brake again but nothing so went home whilst learning to use just front brake in traffic which was a bit alien until I go used to it.
Read up about the ABS system when home and investigated a bit more. The symptoms are as follows; pumping the lever does apply the brake pads progressively (albeit slowly) but it is like there is a non-return valve in the system as the pressure does not relieve and the brake just gets tighter and tighter
Looking at the detail in the service manual all I can assume is that the ABS spool valve is stuck in the emergency braking position so that the fluid flow from the master cylinder is going via the orifice - that said I'd expect the pressure to still release. As I said the it's like there is a non return valve. Also the valve spool in the block appears to be in the de-energised position (i.e. you can push it in by hand - which makes no difference incidentally).
There is no ABS warning light lit and the front brake works as normal (including ABS function - I tried it on gravel track opposite my house).
Anyone got any ideas?
Update 21-Aug:
took in to JAX motrocycles in York (Yam dealer) - they confirmed that there is a fault internally in the ABS hydraulic/pump unit - rear brake would not bleed through the hydraulic unit - new replacement ca. £700! Their suggestion is to convert to 'standard' and junk the ABS unit as cost is prohibitive.
Update 22-Aug:
hydraulic unit is fooked - cannot bleed through it - I've tried everything - looking on a FJR forum the diagnostics cannot detect a spool failure - I've used the test connection to run the diagnostics as per the service manual - all good (but obviously isn't!) - can't find a 2nd hand unit (well other than one in Denmark for £500 - so going to convert to 'non ABS' (ordered the HEL lines today) - BTW new unit is over £1,200!
Fucking carbs & modern fuel ? going back to last year when I 1st got my 2nd Boxeye the carbs have played up !
The originals I had off twice for cleaning then tried an old set off a donor bike I used for other spares,they are not great but confirmed the O rings where shot & my bike DID run :rolleyes
So third time originals back on it ran ok (ish) always had a flat spot & could be a git to start from cold.
I then tried a later (forth) set from an 03 bike,it was better but still not perfect,not sure how they are jetted ?
So now I've now got another (fifth) set from another Boxeye & since a though clean it's finally rideable at low speed,in traffic doesn't stutter,no flat spots just pulls cleanly off the throttle.
I can get carbs off so quickly I know the sequence in my sleep :rollin
I'm actually going to keep the bike now was on the verge of selling up ! So I'll fit the R6 shock & hid headlights sat waiting plus maybe upgrade the forks too ?
Brand new, £65 posted using Royal Mail or £50 collection ,£115 new from Motorcycle Planet, items are in County Durham. These are brand new and have never been fitted. Pm me if interested please
Thanks
Side stand problem Ive had since I brought the bike.
The side stand switch has been disconnected and wire to loom bridged.
If I reconnect the side stand electrics I get the following.
Side stand down in Neutral wont start
With clutch in, in neutral it starts
Put into gear it cuts out.
Side stand up runs and goes into gear
So clutch switch works
Gear selector switch works
Side stand switch works
Bike did have alarm fitted which last owner had removed and wires left disconnected as in pic they are labeled but cant see too clearly and don't want to disturb just yet but will sort out tomorrow with heat shrink.
For sale is a rear shock upgrade I bought a couple of years back and never got around to fitting, and now I don't have the FZS600 any more, seems pointless keeping it!
Made by Betor, it has adjustable pre-load and compression/rebound through the bottom screw adjustment. That's about all I know and it sat in the shed for 2 years.
£50 ONO + P&P and it's yours.
Located near Selby, N.Yorks for those that may be local (20 miles from Leeds and York).
I was riding home from having a new back tyre fitted, thankfully that kept my speed down. My front brake lever started to travel a little further each time I used it. After a few uses it failed completely, no pressure at all on the lever. I have relatively new pads which had been working fine. I have replaced the fluid and now have bought and replaced the master cylinder seals. I tried the brake and it felt ok again, admittedly with slightly more travel than it had previously. I went for a run and all seemed ok, even with the extra lever travel. Then the brake failed completely again. No pressure on the lever. I stopped and tried it again, and it was working fine again. There are no apparent leaks and the hose all look fine. I am pretty sure its not an airlock because they are not spongy. Any help would be very much appreciated. FZS 1000, 2003 model.
Selling my Fazer, very good condition, under 18k miles (about 17600 but will go up if weathers nice), no issues, lots of accessories: heated grips, stainless downpipes, scorpion exhaust, rear hugger, stainless rad cover, renthals, custom levers, custom seat cover, led indicators, longer dogbones, rear rack and top box. Original parts also included. MOT until March 2018. Service history documented until I had it then I serviced it annually myself since I had it about 5/6 years ago.
Only selling as I'm thinking of changing to a cruiser. Any questions just ask.
Bike is located in Llanelli South Wales.
