Originally posted by slidesvill on 27/06/04


This seems to be getting a common problem, and I'd like some info off the foccers that have lost your front sprocket nut. I consider this as a fault with the FAZER, and intend to email/speak to YAMAHA over this problem, I think they should look into this before something serious happens...

Could you please let me know the following
1, Year of the bike
2, Mileage
3, Was it the original chain and sprockets
4, Was it a warranty claim
5, Did you have an accident because of this fault or been put in a dangerous situation.

Please give me your input.

slidey



Reply posted by Alan Sherman 26/07/2005


This happened to me twice now. Basically the lock washer retains its splines and the bent over tabs so we can totally discount the nut actually unscrewing as a cause of failure. What fails is the thread on the nut (the threads on the shaft remain in cases where the damaged nut is found quickly).

Possible causes of nut error are:

User error: Too high a torque used in assembly for the nut.
I think this can be discounted due to the large number of people that have had the problem - a lot have never removed the nut since buying the bike. The torque value is well known in the manuals and it is easy to apply a torque wrench to the nut.

Manufacturing fault; perhaps there was a batch of faulty nuts or driveshafts - either physical or material tolerances out compared to the design spec.
I think this can be discounted as the nuts have failed on a number of bikes (including models) across the range of years of manufacture.

Poorly designed / specified nut / driveshaft interface. Basically the combination of very fine threads, the low number of threads that are actually used to take the load, the specified torque, perhaps the tolerances specified for the nut / driveshaft mating surfaces and the nut material is a poor combination for the designed use.
I really think this is the problem as the nuts have failed across Thundercat, Fazer (and did I hear R6 too?) models, and across the production years. It's be interesting to see what other bikes use the same nut part number and see if there are other problems. I'd hope Yamaha are looking at this.

So what happens now? Yamaha are very closed about it all - not surprising really when you think about the cost of a recall to fit new nuts to the thousands of bike on the road. But going further there is also the implied liability that goes with it which would require Yamaha to replace the driveshaft for people that have had the nut fail that has in turn damaged the driveshaft threads (this job involves taking the engine out, splitting the cases and stripping down the gearbox to replace. It is awfully expensive). All this for discontinued models.....

I am surprised that Yamaha have not changed the design of the nut yet (they hadn't when I ordered a couple in February). They did change the design of the speedo sender drive - the new one is much improved and doesn't break when refitting the wheel so easily.
A new longer nut with a larger number of threads to spread the load, perhaps a revised (lower) torque and maybe a material change would probably solve the problem. I believe someone was trying to get a nut made up at work along these lines.

If we were to gather the evidence in a structured way (bike model, year, vin code, mileage discovered, any replacement chain and sprockets fitted, who fitted etc) to build up the evidence then we could put a strong case to Yamaha (they have already been shown this thread however).

With no response from Yamaha to rectify the problem we could go to the media. We would need strong evidence though.



Reply posted by slidesvill 27/07/2005


The list I noted down of foccers that have lost their gearbox nut/sprocket are:

BOBW (X3)
PEPY27 (X2)
SNOOKY
ICE EAGLE X2
ALISTER X2
BLUE ONES ARE FASTEST
ZARNIWOOP (Loose)
GRIPPA.G
DON BROWNING
RUBBERMAT (X2)? (Plus Stripped Gearbox Shaft)
PETE 786
FUNKY UK
ZIGGY COL
ALPINE
SLAYER THE LAWNMOWER MAN
ALAN SHERMAN (X2)? (Plus Stripped Gearbox Shaft)
MOOK (Loose)
OLD SON
HAWRANEK
FASERJAY
BEN DIESEL
COOLRIFFS
RICOU
MIKE T
ROCKFAN
SLIDESVILL (Loose)

This problem also effects THUNDERCATS, I've been contacted by there owners club, well it's the same motor!

So far we've contacted Yamaha UK and they are aware of the problem, they have passed it onto Yamaha Japan but we've had nothing back.
I've done several emails to mags, such as Bike, Ride, MCN...but had nothing back, even tried BBC Watchdog nothing
Will compose another email next week but won't hold my breath........isn't there somewhere you can lodge mechanical problems that haven't been recalled, sure I remember someone posting about this??? any idea's....

slidey




Updated list 31 01 2005

Wascommuter (Loose)
Fazer Jett (Loose)
ZiggyCol (Loose)
MikoFZ1
Gordo (Loose)
Fazer Racer (Plus Stripped Gearbox Shaft)
Gnasher
Fieryblue
fazerboy01
pete786 (X2) (Plus Stripped Gearbox Shaft)
Duggy
Lum
Weedon (Plus Stripped Gearbox Shaft)
Fazfighter (Loose)

Originally posted by pointer2null

The following instructions relate to a MK1 1998 Fazer, other models may be slightly different but the principle is the same.

This is a guide, if you break it, burn it, scratch it, blow up your garage/bike/cat or do yourself any injury then that's your problem!

Some of the tools needed:

• Long Philips or pozidrive screw driver (to adjust the carbs)
  
• 8mm socket (to remove the tank)
  
• 10mm socket
  
• 5mm Allen key (to remove the tank)
  
• Security torx driver to fit the TPS
  
• Pair of pliers (to remove the clips on the various pipes etc)
  
• Small torch (not essential but damn useful)
  
• Carb balancer (I'm using a Morgan)
  
• Couple of rags
  

Originally posted by NeoPanther on 26/10/2006


Right - I thought I'd have a bash at fleshing out this guide a bit.

The first point is preparation. A lot of people change/repaint their downpipes after several years, so the header nuts are going to be a pain to undo if you don't get some penetrating spray on them. A few members can contest to having to either remove the broken studs from the engine (not pretty) or taking it to garage to get them done.
The ideal solution would be Plusgas. This comes in an Aerosol can and can be bought from motor shops, but generally not the larger ones like Halfords. I used 3-in-1 Penetrating spray myself, which seems to do the job fine.
When I first was going to paint the downpipes I sprayed each of the header nuts liberally with WD40 once a day for a week before I changed them in the weekend, with a final spray of penetrating spray just in case.

Once this has been done you want to place your bike on the centre stand, and remove the exhaust. The bolt is a 14mm IIRC and mine is also held at the bottom from the link pipe to the header pipe.
The picture below shows it off:
pic 1

Next start to loosen the header nuts. Try to be gentle as you don't want to snap any studs or round off the bolt.
I used a 1/4" socket wrench and you'll also need deep sockets and extender bars to be able to get to the header bots from the front. Poor focus, but the picture gives you an idea what you want:
pic 2

I sat in front of the bike with my legs under the exhaust in advance of when they will fall off the bike when it's all undone.
Once you've undone all the bolts on the front, move to the side where the end of the header pipes are. Undo and take out the bolt that attaches the headers to the frame. You will need to make sure the headers don't drop and bend any of the studs at the front too.
Holding the headers steady, take the nuts off the front now, and store them in a safe place. You will now be able to pull the headers towards you to take them off the studs at the front, and move them to one side.
Behold - mucky pipes!
pic 3

pic 4

As you can see. They are in need of TLC!
You now need to thoroughly clean the headers in preparation for painting. If you are replacing them with nice shiny stainless steel headers, then ignore the next steps. However, you may want to spray some degreaser, or strong cleaner on the front of the engine and give it a bit of a scrub (making sure you tape off or block the headers to stop anything getting in there first). Careful where you're spraying the water too. I should have done it to mine...
pic 5

First you want to clean the crap off your pipes. A strong solution of shampoo/specific bike cleaner with a stiff brush is good. Then you'll need to degrease them (I'll advise wearing gloves when doing this too) so you can key the paint, or do what I did, where I took it down to bear metal with wet and dry paper. I used paraffin and a cloth to degrease the pipes, and left them to dry.
Looking a bit better here:
pic 6

Then you need to get the pipes prepared to take the layers of paint. This can be done in two main ways.
If you want to be thorough (or just are a masochist) you can do what I did, where I used wet and dry paper (wet) and scrub the headers until it's down to the bare metal. Or you can 'key' what paint is left with wire wool and paint over that. This allows the paint to stick.
After quite a bit of wet n drying I was making progress!
pic 7

It's hard work!
pic 8

I managed to get most of the paint off, bar some where it's hard to reach between the pipes. Although I think I took several layers of skin off my hands in the process! 
Then you need to ensure they are dried off and clean. Next is the painting process.
I used Sperex VHT black paint which is designed for exhausts and engines. Since this is aerosol based, you need to spray in layers and in long sweeping motions.

Don't keep spraying away either, as the paint will just run. Spray in thin layers to cover the entire pipes (with the backwards and forwards sweeping motion). Leave to dry for 10 minutes or so and continue to layer the paint until you've got at least 5 or so layers. This should provide adequate protection. I didn't do as many as that and it didn't last as well as hoped.
Here's what they should look like:
pic 9

pic 10

Once you've left the pipes to dry (or use some heat to help the process), they are ready to fit. Be careful not to chip your freshly painted pipes! (Lay down a sheet or something under the bike possibly)

Adopt the similar position to when you took them off. I held the pipes up under the bike with my feet/legs to slide them back onto the header studs. I'd like to note that when you're replacing your exhausts, even to repaint them, it's best to replace your header gaskets. They can be pulled out with a bit of determination and a screwdriver! You can hold the new gaskets in the header holes with a bit of copper slip or something similar, as you'll find they keep falling out!
As you push the pipes back onto the studs and the bits surrounding the header ends to screw them on, you might want to get someone to bolt on the end of the headers, to help you keep them steady when you tighten up all the header nuts.
Tighten up the two end headers to make it easier for yourself too.
So to finish, ensure you tighten all the nuts (including the end can bolt) at correct torque and if you're fitting new header pipes, check the header nuts after 100 miles or so to be of correct tightness as they generally loosen off as they settle.

Hope this helps!

I'm back to work in Wednesday bud, so you'll have peace from me then again.


Are there any plans afoot to have an IM type thing on here?
I know it's not used by many that regularly on Yuku, but myself and a few of the Scots do venture in every now and then for a blether and a catch up.

Can I fix this as a standard font for further posts, or does it need changed everytime?

The home button is now an empty page, or is it just me?

Originally posted by Gnasher on 19/12/2002


I'm getting lots of people asking me "what's wrong with me oiler"

Basically the weather, remember the temperature has dropped by 15* or so in the last month, we had temps of 15+ in Nov? The oil viscosity will start to drop at 10* and like a stone at anything under 5* so you need to turn them up to maintain the 2 drops per min.

You can't just fit and forget you need to work out 3 main settings

1. Above 5* = 3 - 4
2. Below 5* = 6 - 8
3. Wet = 4 - 5

These are guides as all the units are slightly different and there will be a lot of over factors as well. So check yours daily to see if it's well oiling.

Contact Scottoil if you’re having problems and they will sort it, they also have a customer support page. http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/support/cus...pport.html



Question asked by TCat2001 on 02/01/2003


Q. What’s different between blue and red oil or did scottoiler change over from red to blue?
I got a Chaintec electronic oiler which comes with Scottoil blue with it but I have red left over from the Fazer?

A. Found this on their site

What’s the difference?
The two oils both have the same chemical make up although the High Temperature Oil is more viscous and therefore slightly thicker, meaning it will flow more slowly in higher temperatures than the traditional blue Scottoil.  Other than that, they’re the same and can even be mixed, so if you’re changing over from one oil to the other there’s no need to drain one out and start again, they’ll blend, saving you waste.

Which one do you need?
Your choice of oils is dependent on the general riding temperatures you usually experience.  Between 0–20 ºC (32-68 ºF) we would recommend Traditional Blue Scottoil.  For higher ambient temperatures, go for the red as it will be a much better lubricant on the chain at those temperatures and will be easy to regulate through the vacuum operated systems too.  The Red Oil has an operating range of 20-40 ºC (68-104 ºF).
In some cases we would recommend you use High Temperature Scottoil if your reservoir is located near to a constant heat source such as the engine as this will warm the oil in the reservoir to the operating range more suited to the red oil.


Bike specific installation guides can be found on there website
http://www.scottoiler.com/uk/installation-guides.html

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In theory, the only ones who should be able to post are Mike, Gringo, Raymy and Andrew.
Frazer, I've tried to block you from seeing it, has it worked on your Eye of Providence?
Can other peeps try to post a photie to it please?
Cheers.
Aegis

I just notice I combined the place Callander with the actual spelling of Calendar and got them both wrong.
:lol

Threw up the fact that you can't edit entries on the calendar thingy itself, you can only alter what appears on the Events board.
Possible to change this at all?

It is indeed ya dozy twat, click on the pencil and all is revealed.
:rolleyes