Basically, in 1st gear when I hit roughly 6000 rpm the [size=100%][/size][size=inherit]engine[/size][size=100%][/size]/exhaust starts making a 'duel noise'  - the engine sounds like it's starting to strain. Then at 10000 rpm the bike loses [size=100%][/color][/size][size=inherit]power[/size][size=100%][/size] and actually starts to slow down!! It feels like a massive dip in power. Anyone any ideas please?

Ta

Can anyone tell me the standard sizes are for the front and rear sprockets on a 5lv and also if its best to change the front or the rear? I think some one mentioned having to fit a speedo corrector thingy when you put different sized sprockets on, is this correct?

Congratulations to Tori for winning November's competition. As chosen by her this month's theme is "All I want for Christmas".

Post your photographs below to enter. Competition rules include a maximum of 2 photographs per active member, photographs must have been taken by the entrant and relate to the theme and the competition will close toward the end of December.

i  had a look at my old exup valve and as you can see from the picture it is very worn



and the valve was very sloppy in the bushing

Hi,

My gen 1 has a paltry 130k miles on it and so far rear chains have averaged out at about 40k each albeit with front sprocket changes around 12k and rears 20k.

I have had various makes.

This year i bought the most expensive one yet at around £160 for a tsubaki 4160 ha sgx sigma sealed x ring gold chain plus renthal sprockets, the rear being a ' hard anodised ' version.

The rear sprocket is a lightweight one.

The problem is that i am constantly adjusting the chain and have been since day 1 and it is beginning to seem shagged at only 11k miles!

Variables here are;

• 1st time purchase of a tsubaki chain
  
• 1st time with these type of sprockets
  
• 1st time purchased from ' Intobikes'
  
• 1st time i have fitted chain and sprockets myself( have previously fitted sprockets only).
  

Well been on here snooping around a while..

I have been riding bike for a few years now.. mainly fully faired bikes.. ZX7r's, breif spell on a CBR600f, YZF750's, then ZX9's, built a nice street fighter..

Then went fully faired..


Now gone and got myself a wicked Fazer1000.. silver Gen1... 50k miles on an 02 plate.. it needs sprucing up a bit.. p/o had it to commute into London for 9 yrs.. kept outside, home and work, and only occasionally hosed down..

Had a bit of a drama getting it home though...


What wrong with this picture?


All good in the end thanks to a nice recovery man and his flatbed...

So on to the list of jobs to do..

AIS removal - thanks Justy
R6 shock - thanks Devilsyam
Wheels powdercoated - Pristine wheels in Woburn (where i had my blue 9r ons done, superb job)
New wheel bearings
R1 shift linkage
Grease up and clean all over (every nut and bolt really)

Well hope to chat to you all
Ride safe

Silverdream


General service and check over

Whilst removing my AIS off of my 50k miler Gen 1 ... took off the rad and came across this mess..

mmmmm does'nt look like these are coming off without a fight....

After a bit of cleaning...


Still a long way to go....  :lol

What's the best tyre set up? (yeah one on the front & one on the back, I know ha ha :lol ). I've just noticed, which is a bit remiss of me, that I've got a Bridgestone Battleax on the front & a Michelin something or other on the rear. I thought they should both be the same type, but then I know very little. :o

I've owned my fazer FZ1 about two years now and thought it's about time to join this forum. So I look forward to reading other owners experiences and joining in.

As a bolt was snapped, part of the shaft still remains with thread on however theres not enough room to squeeze a standard nut on there.

my question is can you get partly sunk nut that would fit through the header plate and bolt on for a temporary measure?

bikes an 03 fzs 600