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Latest Threads |
Fazer 1000 Jet kit / EXUP
Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
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1 hour ago
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Support a fellow Foccer
Forum: General
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Yesterday, 12:22 PM
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Whoever posts last is bes...
Forum: General
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Yesterday, 12:21 PM
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Downshifts getting herder...
Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
Last Post: Gaz66
27-08-25, 11:32 PM
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Thinking of buying an FZ8
Forum: General
Last Post: Grahamm
27-08-25, 12:32 AM
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what did you do with your...
Forum: General
Last Post: agricola
26-08-25, 05:23 PM
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Fzs600 h gasket
Forum: FZS600 Fazer
Last Post: Rob silver
26-08-25, 04:00 PM
» Replies: 6
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FZS600 Front fender/mudgu...
Forum: General
Last Post: BBROWN1664
23-08-25, 02:20 PM
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Newb with lots of questio...
Forum: Introduction
Last Post: unfazed
21-08-25, 11:34 PM
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Wind noise....Thank you
Forum: FZS600 Fazer
Last Post: Fergie in France
21-08-25, 02:02 PM
» Replies: 2
» Views: 114
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FZ1s gen 2 airbox mod |
Posted by: manuel32 - 01-09-12, 09:37 PM - Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Replies (2)
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Well after watching and reading the tutorials on the web i since discovering the filthy air filter decided to do some modding. :eek
So step one order a K+N filter.
![[Image: 1dirtyairfilter.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/1dirtyairfilter.jpg)
So here is the original flies and the blocked off air over run pipe. This used to cause a lot of loud popping on deceleration.
![[Image: 2fliesbeforecappedair.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/2fliesbeforecappedair.jpg)
so tape up flies and remove them stuck in screws,heated a long large screwdriver red hot then hold it on the head of the screw to melt the threadlock.then size 0 screw driver.
![[Image: 3removingflies.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/3removingflies.jpg)
Then trim 8 mm from the existing flies (sub throttles) to allow air to the butterflies as soon as they open,avoiding the delay of servo opening them
![[Image: 4finishedflies.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/4finishedflies.jpg)
Then trim the air box to cut out the snorkel tube and enlarge the air inlet
![[Image: 5Photo0271.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/5Photo0271.jpg)
Cut out done
![[Image: 6Photo0272.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/6Photo0272.jpg)
Then the pretty bit, my new K+N filter in place
![[Image: knfilter.jpg]](http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr61/slimwilly/knfilter.jpg)
Oh and then the test ride,,and immiediatly the difference is noticable, the tall firsr gear usually almost stalls the bike but not now,it almost pulls away in first without opening the throttle.
The difference is very noticeable,smoother instant throttle response, oh and the bloody loud popping has gone on decelaration.
The flat spot at 2500 to 3000 rpm is still there, not below or above, just there.
But even at very low revs it pulls much smoother, i am very pleased with the result, and all for £40 air filter.
Oh and yes over the ton ,throttle open and hear the inlets growl,very nice,not to loud but there.
Plenty fast enough for me,it sure does go,front wheel lifting gives me the jeebies, our roads are like rollercoasters and 90 mph accelerating and the wheel is up, :eek
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Having a mare |
Posted by: james43 - 01-09-12, 08:30 PM - Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Replies (2)
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Got up this morning, put the biking gear on went out to the garage jumped on the Fazer started her up pushed her off the centre stand. Thought that's a bit soft, got it out the garage and checked rear tyre flat. Argh :'( on a Saturday of all days.
Rang round a few local garages got someone to do puncture repair for £25. tyre was not perfect and a bit rounded off but worth saving in my opinion.
took the rear wheel to garage only to be told tyre was Fuc**D. and they didn't have one in stock. Grrrrrrr
Managed to source a tyre Avon VP2 sport AV60 for £128 fitted at Thunder road Honda dealer in South Wales which I thought was pretty good for dealer.
Collected wheel gave up on going out today whist refitting wheel rear brake pad separated from metal frame Argh..... part 2.
Down to South Wales superbikes for brake pads £23.00 not as bad I thought for Yam main dealer even though they are £12.00 from M&P.
Anyway all back together and wheeled back into garage 6pm ready for tomorrow.
Waved finger at her told her how disappointed I was.
Said we would try again in the morning.
Rant over..
Before anyone tells me off I know you should change tyres in pairs but the front is like new.
Never had avon's before more a michelin battleaxe, any good ?
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Which Handlebars? |
Posted by: elektrikAlien - 01-09-12, 07:49 PM - Forum: Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner
- Replies (3)
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Can anyone tell me which model number of Renthal handlebars are nearest in shape/reach etc to the standard bars on a 2002 Gen1 Fazer 1000. There seems to be a confusing number of different shapes/ styles in their range, and I can't work it out!!!. :grumble :grumble :grumble Thanks!
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Newbie experience of first time replaced rear tyre |
Posted by: darren_uk - 01-09-12, 07:20 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (12)
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I'm writing this hoping that it might help someone else.
I've had my Yamaha FZR600 2003 model for 4 months and it needed a new rear tyre.
I've had one of these fitted as I'm a commuter:
http://www.ityre.com/en/tyres/catalog/avon/model/21381/
Avon AV56 Storm [color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]AT 2 Ultra[/color] [/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]160/60ZR17 - pumped to 40psi[/color][color=rgb(34, 34, 34)]
I'd heard about new tyres being very slippery and so I was naturally worried. I work with a colleague whose only motorcycle accident was when he'd just put a new rear tyre on and he lost it on the first corner. I heard from the place that fitted my tyre that they see so many people losing it as they leave their place.
So I was worried, especially given I'm still a newbie to bikes: despite having a licence for 2 years I was a Sunday only cruiser (ex Midnight Star owner) and it's only been these last 4 months that I've needed to commute. I've done 2500 miles these last 4 months.
I left the tyre fitter today and went for a ride.
And nothing happened. I've just done 30 miles and absolutely nothing. I ought to mention that I am a bit of a granddad when I drive so perhaps that had something to do with it: I only open it up on straights; but come back down again to take corners probably with less than a 10 degree lean angle - or at least that's how it feels.
25 miles into the ride I stopped and looked at the state of my rear tyre. It looks like I'm just riding on half of the tread - so I'm not leaning over very much. the outer two quarters look untouched.
So there you have it: if my newbie, worrying experience is helpful: it seems that you don't need to ride as if you're on an ice-rink - just ride conservative as I do anyway.
Hope this helps.
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another cam chain / adjuster question! |
Posted by: markbubble - 01-09-12, 05:29 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (4)
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hi all iv only had my98 600 fazer a few months and had great fun with no probs etc,the cam chain made a small amount of noise when cold but went after engine warmed up but today noise didnt go away,the bikes done just over 30k so dont think it needs a new chain but is it worth me taking adjuster off and checking it or is it put ear plugs in and forget it? if i need to remove is it tank and carbs off job?cheers mark
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Rough idling on cold starts |
Posted by: Louis101993 - 01-09-12, 02:41 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (10)
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Hello all, wondering if any of you could help me
My fazer doesn't like idling when it first starts up, even on a day like today, 18 degree's and I can just start it and let it idle, I either have to put a tiny bit of choke on or giving it a few blips of revs when it sounds like its about to die, the idle starts at about 1050 and if I leave it, it will work it way down to around 600-700 before it cuts out.
I've noticed that the down pipes from cylinder 3 + 4 seems to take longer to warm up than the other 2, I know electrical problem tie 1+4 and 2+3 together so I've ruled that out (correct me if I'm wrong)
Once it's up to running temp she idles nice and steadily at 1.2k, no dropping in revs or wanting to cut out
So my best guess is the valve clearance on cylinder 3 + 4 may be too loose, and when it warms up the expansion of the valve creates a better seal hence idling fine once up to temp?
27,000 miles on the engine, not sure if the clearance has ever been adjusted before.
Just looking for some second opinions before I go ahead and strip her down, I've got a Haynes manual and it seems very long winded, does anybody else have a simpler way to get at the valves to shove a feeler gauge in?
Thanks, Louis.
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Left plugs wet, right plugs dry....? |
Posted by: Revilo18 - 01-09-12, 01:45 PM - Forum: FZS600 Fazer
- Replies (3)
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HI,
I just changed my plugs as I got a good deal on a new set at Hein Gerick's closing down sale :'( and also I have just gone past 20k miles.
When I removed the old plugs, i noticed that the two i took out of the left side (ie cylinders 1 and 2) were dark and a bit wet up the screwthread to the gasket, while the right ones were bone dry all the way up.
I've put the new ones in and don't feel or hear any massive difference. I've had a new chain and sprocket since so the bike feels smoother all round. It's fine at low revs and to be honest it pulls away well and can pump along at 25mph in 6th gear - so I'm not sure if I should be worried or not about the difference in the plugs.
Will give it a few hundred miles and then take the new plugs out to check it wasn't just the spacings on one side, but any advice in the meantime very welcome - even if it's to tell me to stop being so paranoid!
Cheers.
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