£24.95 posted easy fit and better looking than the plastic un's that fall out

just thought i'd share the results of my tinkering this evening
pics of before and after.
won't be to everyone's taste i know 
thoughts please ?

[smg id=971 type=preview align=center caption="Sidelight only"]
[smg id=972 type=preview align=center caption="Sidelight and Dip"]
[smg id=973 type=preview align=center caption="Sidelight and LED"]
[smg id=974 type=preview align=center caption="Sidelight, Dip and LED"]

Hi all just got a 07 fz6 and looking at fitting some  after market exhaust but i have some questions

I have a mate who said if i fit an after market exhaust to the bike then the bike is not going to run right ?

he said i would need to get a power commander for the bike to run right because the ecu is set up for the oem exhaust

and not the  after market exhaust  :groan can some one help me please

  I am also presuming that if I do change the exhaust, etc. it will need tuned to cope with the changes, is this true ???

All help greatly appreciated and cheers very much in advance.

My biking journey so far...

[/size]From sunny south Wales just outside of Pontypool:

• [/size]BMWR1150R - ok but too heavy
  
• [/size]CBR600F - loved it....written off by dizzy cow roughly from behind
  
• [/size]Aprilia Futura RSV1000 - loved it.... flimsy plastics crap wiring great motor
  
• [/size]FZ1 Fazer (2008) - bought new, loved it but too thirsty, fantastic fit and finish
  
• [/size]XJR6 Diversion (2010) - fun, economical but not enough torque and a bit light-weight
  
• [/size]GSXR750R - absolutely brilliant but brought out the inner lunatic, thirsty and below average build quality
  
• [/size]FZ8 Fazer (2013) akrapovic - got there in the end!!!!
  

I was thinking about this on the way home after seeing a bloke in a turban riding an R1.  If you didn't have to wear one by law, would you?

Just purchased my first fazer 1000, well, still at dealers until the 29th. 2005, silver, dark touring screen and hugger. Standard apart from that.

It had been lowered for previous owner so getting them to put back to standard and tighten up the rear shock. I'm a portly lad and it sank like a stone when I sat on it. I hear that the first upgrade should be an r6 shock when cash allows.

Waiting on Luke to come along and throw abuse at me now!

Attached Files

  ImageUploadedByTapatalk1371579650.072073.jpg (Size: 61.54 KB / Downloads: 44)

Hi, picked up an elderly FZS600 and its hilarious, dives into corners with ease, brakes are great, super comfy. I don't know how I've overlooked a Fazor for so long. I had a Ducati S2800 Monster which was too shiney and valuable to use every day in all weather so I "downgraded" !!!!!!  best thing I've ever done, the Fazor beats the Duc at everything LOL, I've lowered it with links and dropped the forks through about the same amount, still handles great, chicken strips gone, I have had a lot of bikes but the Fazor is the most fun I've ever had on two wheels !
Fraser

Clip ons on an FZS600. Good or bad, what are your opinions?

Hello everyone,


I'm having a few problems that I've spent the past week trying to sort out. My bike is the fazer 600 year 2000


It started when my rev counter started playing up, got home red the handbook and finally found out that it was actually giving me the 3.000k TPS fault code. As the bike is still running fine, no starting problems or running problems I took the route of unplugging the TPS, gave it a clean, checked the wires then plugged it back in.


Started it up. Let it idle for a while and no more 3k fault code, took it for a spin and 20 miles later noticed my rev counter bouncing around again, pulled over and again 3k fault came up.


Took it home, unplugged it again resetted the bike using the throttle method and plugged the TPS back, once again no more fault code, then as a test to see if it is faulty I unplugged it and then started the bike, sure enough it came up with the 3k warning again.


I've raped google so much my brain now hurts so I'm turning to you guys in the hope you can just answer me a few questions I have.


1, is there any more ways I can test the TPS to make sure it's 100% faulty other then just unplugging it to see if the code comes up?


2, If it is faulty do I actually need it? I've heard of people just putting in a blanking plug.


Finally 3, yamaha want £190 for a new unit, ( they can whistle ) I've red on google that a TPS off a bandit 1200 or a ZX6R would fit the fazer, as long as it has A2 stamped on it, does this mean any TPS with A2 on would fit? I'm finding it really hard to find a second hand one from a fazer 600.


Sorry this post is so long but I'm at my wits end now and the bouncing off the rev counter is an annoying reminder that I have a fault.


Thanks in advance everyone.

I recently returned to the FZS600 after being on the 1000 for four years. Upon return I was struck (literally) by the poor damping characteristics of both front & rear suspension. Admittedly, on a bike with 42k on the clock & no signs indicating that the forks had ever been off to enjoy an oil change, I should not have been surprised.

Nonetheless, being a serial suspension modder, I decided that it was one area of these bikes that can ( and should) be easily improved. I started with the rear, fitting an recent R6 shock & aftermarket dogbones. This provided superb results for around £150-180.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,8167.0.html

Now to concentrate on the front-end. I had a set of 5SL R6 forks in the garage from my Fazer 1000 conversion   
http://fazer1000.yuku.com/reply/23677/Re...cBnQdhq-MI      but the electronic speedo setup of the FZS600 is prohibitive & machining surfaces of fork legs ruled this conversion out from being cheap & easy. So, that left modding the standard forks. The common route of adding Hagon progressive fork springs & heavier oil masks the inadequacies of the damper-rod fork setup, but usually result in an overly harsh ride in order to regain handling.

As a few of you may be aware, I had previously modded a pair of FZS600 forks with Race Tech’s Gold valve Emulators, along with a set of linear-rate fork springs from a TRX850: 
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,71.0.html   
No point going into detail regarding the benefits of emulators here, there's plenty of info out there on the web regarding technical details.  Anyway....although the experiment was successful, unfortunately it was relatively expensive. Furthermore, from what I have gathered, there were four aspects that limited the mod’s potential in people's minds.

CONCERN
1)      The Race Tech (RT)  Gold Valves were expensive (£150)
2)      The appropriate linear-rate springs were expensive (£75-90)
3)      Fork surgery was necessary & drilling holes weakened the damper rods
4)      The mod was permanent

SOLUTIONS
1)      Since my fork mod I have noted that others have found a viable, cheap alternative to Race Tech’s product – emulators from Debrix: http://www.debrix.com/41mm-Fork-Damper-V...361-vt.htm    .Cynics rightly point out that they are cheap Taiwanese knock-offs that lack instructions and are made for Harley Davidson forks. However, some SV650 riders have fitted them, followed Race-Tech’s instructions and were surprised to find that when setup properly they worked just as well    http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112643    . These Emulators / emus cost about £30 instead of RT’s £150.
2)      Although RT rightly point out that linear-rate springs work best with their emulators, a wide variety of hard-up riders (from Suzuki Burgman  http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/650+Race+Tech+Installation  to Kawa KLR 650  http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126358    have run these emulators successfully with progressive rate springs fitted, usually the standard spring setup for budget bike forks. This means that the Debrix emu setup would still work very well with springs from Hagon, Wilbers or even the standard FZS fork springs. I’m currently running standard, progressive springs from a Honda VFR750 and it still works very well.  Admittedly, the FZS springs are too soft for the average sized European rider & an option here would be to shorten the fork springs, making the springs firmer, but that will be info for another thread....
3)      As per RT emus, it’s still necessary to drill out the compression holes in the fork damper rods.  Do a search on Google for failed damper rods after doing this mod right – I couldnt find any so I assume it's an absolute non-issue if done correctly.  I have realised, however, that the size of the holes do not have to be as large as I originally recommended. I have modded mine with variable-sized holes & the setup appears to be working just as well. Of additional interest is that the Debrix emus fit STRAIGHT on top of the FZS600’s damper rods, meaning that widening them with cutting stones (as per my original Gold Valve instructions) is no longer necessary.
4)      The mod is still permanent. Permanently better suspension, how awful! Still, at least this time round the cost of parts for modification is more like £50 instead of £250, so you won’t lose much should you sell the bike on.

Having fitted & used this modded suspension in anger, I can wholeheartedly vouch for these Debrix emulators as a very cheap & effective alternative to RT’s Gold Valves. I probably sound like I’m on commission from them, but again just thought that spreading this info might encourage some FZS owners to proactively improve their forks immeasurably. The main problem with the emus is the cost of postage from the US, effectively doubling it, but I noted that the SV650 owners resorted to group buys in order to minimise postage costs  http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=174548  http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=175607  . Indeed, I picked up my Debrix Emulators from one of them! This 'Group Buy' approach would undoubtedly also be the cheapest way for FZS owners to get these emus, but only if there is sufficient interest in such fork modding...... 

If there is enough demand, I will do another Debrix emulator installation thread with relevant pics, modifying it where necessary.