(14-09-24, 12:11 PM)fazersharp Wrote: This was going to be my question about those multi packs of superglue in the pound shops.
So what is a good quality super glue.
Also is the mitre glue that comes with an activator spray any good - just the glue itself instead of super glue
.
The pound shop stuff is ok for a quick fix, but for serious stuff, I'd go for a brand name like Loctite.
After watching him with the thin glue I think that's probably why I bought some large tweezers plus I have loads of mechanic type rubber gloves to avoid sticking my hands to anything.
And don't forget if you look hard enough Super Glue used to come in packets with another tube which would dissolve the glue very effectively if you do happen to stick your fingers together. Not sure if it can be bought on it's own though? The oversized tweezers i bought in about 3 different sizes always come in useful in the garage though so are definitely worth having in your tool box.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Yep I have a set of long tweezers with
long reach
angled end
squeeze to open
locking closed.
shaped ends
Very useful in my tool kit and cheap to buy in sets.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
15-09-24, 11:45 AM (This post was last modified: 15-09-24, 11:45 AM by Grahamm.)
(14-09-24, 11:30 PM)darrsi Wrote: After watching him with the thin glue I think that's probably why I bought some large tweezers plus I have loads of mechanic type rubber gloves to avoid sticking my hands to anything.
Also it's a good idea to code your phone's unlock sensor with not only your index finger, but your middle finger and the index finger on the other hand too (guess how I found this out... )
Quote:And don't forget if you look hard enough Super Glue used to come in packets with another tube which would dissolve the glue very effectively if you do happen to stick your fingers together. Not sure if it can be bought on it's own though?
18-09-24, 05:39 PM (This post was last modified: 18-09-24, 05:41 PM by dolau.)
(13-09-24, 05:20 PM)robbo Wrote: You need to make sure it is the same type plastic as there are several types. My fairing is ABS(lettering moulded into the inside) You can buy plastic welding rods for the different types of plastic. It's quite a minefield when you start digging.
? my kit came with rods
Thank you guys- some useful tips
(13-09-24, 05:20 PM)robbo Wrote: You need to make sure it is the same type plastic as there are several types. My fairing is ABS(lettering moulded into the inside) You can buy plastic welding rods for the different types of plastic. It's quite a minefield when you start digging.
? my kit came with rods
Thank you guys- some useful tips
When i got my plastic welding kit it came with all different colours of rods which at first i thought was literally a colour thing but on further investigation learned that plastic isn't just plastic. And not only are there different types but they even named them too. For example a lot of videos out there show cables ties being used to melt for welding/fixing things together, but then you'll realise a few videos down the line that cable tie plastic doesn't play nicely with other plastics hence the reason you get a supply of different type rods for each purpose. And plastic moulds, like a fairing, should have the name of the plastic used written in the mould to make things a tad easier but it's really not that easy at all. I'm more of a "melt it and see" person.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(14-09-24, 10:14 AM)darrsi Wrote: Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things.
If you're going to do the superglue and baking soda technique, make sure you get decent quality components.
I tried it with some superglue from Poundland and baking soda from eBay and it didn't work well at all
The last unbranded "super glue" I bought was a bottle from Temu, which I thought I'd try our as it was so cheap, which turned out to be a Chinese copy, literally, but I used that with standard supermarket baking soda and fixed a plastic lug on a house security camera and it worked a treat and is still solid.
The camera is removed every few months to give the rechargeable battery a full boost as it is a solar powered unit, and I make a point of checking that specific lug and it hasn't budged at all. When you slide the camera onto the wall mount it is held in place by the two lugs so it does have a bit of pressure on it too.
Maybe I'm just imagining it, but I don't find the original branded Super Glue to be as strong as it was years ago, unless you plan on sticking your fingers together which it manages to do quicker than anything else.
On that note I was told a tip where you should very lightly dab surfaces with a wet sponge before using in as the glue sticks much better to a very light coating of moisture. This would also explain why it sticks to skin so easily and quickly due to moisture in porous skin.
Thanks for that information does the baking soda/ graphite dust give the glue strength or does it become part of a chemical reaction?
I guess it is not like welding where you try and match the weld within the original material
(14-09-24, 10:14 AM)darrsi Wrote: Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things.
If you're going to do the superglue and baking soda technique, make sure you get decent quality components.
I tried it with some superglue from Poundland and baking soda from eBay and it didn't work well at all
The last unbranded "super glue" I bought was a bottle from Temu, which I thought I'd try our as it was so cheap, which turned out to be a Chinese copy, literally, but I used that with standard supermarket baking soda and fixed a plastic lug on a house security camera and it worked a treat and is still solid.
The camera is removed every few months to give the rechargeable battery a full boost as it is a solar powered unit, and I make a point of checking that specific lug and it hasn't budged at all. When you slide the camera onto the wall mount it is held in place by the two lugs so it does have a bit of pressure on it too.
Maybe I'm just imagining it, but I don't find the original branded Super Glue to be as strong as it was years ago, unless you plan on sticking your fingers together which it manages to do quicker than anything else.
On that note I was told a tip where you should very lightly dab surfaces with a wet sponge before using in as the glue sticks much better to a very light coating of moisture. This would also explain why it sticks to skin so easily and quickly due to moisture in porous skin.
Thanks for that information does the baking soda/ graphite dust give the glue strength or does it become part of a chemical reaction?
I guess it is not like welding where you try and match the weld within the original material
Not actually sure about the science behind it all? All i remember was that the combo of baking soda, powdered pencil lead and superglue became extremely strong, so as mentioned you need to get the shape or levelling of whatever you're fixing sorted out sooner rather than later..
I've even seen cigarette ash have superglue added to it, and even the filter of a cigarette to fill a hole with. Once the filter has super glue added and it solidifies it can then be reused to put a screw into it if the hole was becoming a bit loose beforehand.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(14-09-24, 12:11 PM)fazersharp Wrote: This was going to be my question about those multi packs of superglue in the pound shops.
So what is a good quality super glue.
Also is the mitre glue that comes with an activator spray any good - just the glue itself instead of super glue
.
The pound shop stuff is ok for a quick fix, but for serious stuff, I'd go for a brand name like Loctite.
(29-09-24, 04:29 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Adding pencil lead are you then actually making sort of a carbon fibre compound.
That all sounds a bit too clever.
My guess is somebody spent a lot of time mixing super glue with all sorts of stuff to see how they behaved together and what the end result was.
Definitely worth taking a look on YouTube because you'll be shown things you simply wouldn't have thought of normally.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
08-10-24, 12:58 PM (This post was last modified: 08-10-24, 01:25 PM by robbo.)
Few pics of my damaged/Q bonded and finished fairing. The crack in the fairing was held open quite a bit due to the fairing/mirror support frame getting bent. This frame was replaced, and once the fairing was removed I zip tied the cracked area together and left it for several days. When the ties were removed the size of the crack was minimal, and plastic welding reinforced with some aluminium mesh, then coated in Q bond seemed to do the trick. Not much filling was required, and the painter was quite impressed with my effort, much to my surprise as was prepared for him not to want to do it.
The pics should show 1.The damage. 2.The Q bond welded repair. 3.Ready for the painter, and lastly the finished article.
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
(10-10-24, 04:30 PM)Trebus Wrote: How’s the rest coming along Robbo, nearly ready?
Hiya,
Yep, not far away now. Currently battling with threading the ends on the new Renthals to take the original bar end weights. The tailpiece is ready to go back on along with your mudguard that I’ve just fitted with my old carbon fenda extenda. I had hoped to replace my Puig screen with the same but they’re no longer made. The choice is now between an Ermax or Powerbronze. I have the original as a stop gap, so might ride down to Powerbronze, who are near Littlehampton, and take a look at their offering. An MOT will be the first job on the list once it’s up and running. Will keep you posted
Whizz kid sitting pretty on his two wheeled stallion.
Ah, great news. Glad to hear it’s all coming back together.
I’m back on the standard screen with mine, had an aftermarket one but the wind got straight under my helmet and used to make my eyes water! Must have been the combination of renthals and GTYR risers putting me at a certain position. Standard screen much better for me.
(08-10-24, 12:58 PM)robbo Wrote: Few pics of my damaged/Q bonded and finished fairing. The crack in the fairing was held open quite a bit due to the fairing/mirror support frame getting bent. This frame was replaced, and once the fairing was removed I zip tied the cracked area together and left it for several days. When the ties were removed the size of the crack was minimal, and plastic welding reinforced with some aluminium mesh, then coated in Q bond seemed to do the trick. Not much filling was required, and the painter was quite impressed with my effort, much to my surprise as was prepared for him not to want to do it.
The pics should show 1.The damage. 2.The Q bond welded repair. 3.Ready for the painter, and lastly the finished article.
Thanks for the pictures- they are very helpful - good result
)
