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Plastic welding
#1
My fairing lugs are pretty damaged - several broken in half and it was suggested I try plastic welding

Brought the tool ready for a winter project and it seems mainly for repairing cracks rather than creating new plastic

I want to repair the lugs by creating new plastic which I can drill fixing holes through which sort of requires me to sit the fairing on something while I add plastic to the broken lug- was thinking glass sheet but will the new plastic stick to that?

Anybody tried this successfully?

Ta
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#2
I'd suggest trying tin foil.
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#3
(08-09-24, 12:35 PM)Grahamm Wrote: I'd suggest trying tin foil.

Thank you - will start to experiment
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#4
There's a product called Q Bond, that would be suitable to create and repair lugs. I watched a few youtube vids on the subject as in a similar situation. You could also use pencil lead filings and superglue, which is no doubt the contents of the Q Bond. You can make a mould using aluminium tape on the item you're repairing, add an amount of the powder followed by a few drops of the liquid. Repeat the process until the required level is reached.
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#5
(09-09-24, 08:32 AM)robbo Wrote: There's a product called Q Bond, that would be suitable to create and repair lugs. I watched a few youtube vids on the subject as in a similar situation. You could also use pencil lead filings and superglue, which is no doubt the contents of the Q Bond. You can make a mould using aluminium tape on the item you're repairing, add an amount of the powder followed by a few drops of the liquid. Repeat the process until the required level is reached.

Hadn’t heard of that - will do some research thank you
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#6
Instead of sitting for hours with a pencil sharpener maybe look into lock dry lube thisDry lube
I have never heard of that technique - sounds interesting
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#7
(10-09-24, 07:51 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Instead of sitting for hours with a pencil sharpener maybe look into lock dry lube thisDry lube
I have never heard of that technique - sounds interesting

I was confused at first and wondered why I needed lube ????

I checked the link and understood ???
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#8
(11-09-24, 09:20 AM)dolau Wrote:
(10-09-24, 07:51 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Instead of sitting for hours with a pencil sharpener maybe look into lock dry lube thisDry lube
I have never heard of that technique - sounds interesting

I was confused at first and wondered why I needed lube ????

I checked the link and understood ???

Not read anything further about whats in it but if its pure carbon then seems it might work and you will have a proper lock lube that will not attract dirt or clog up. I brought the exact same one after a lubing ignition  barrel question came up
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#9
So - I have been experimenting with my modified soldering iron which came with the plastic welding kit and realised I don’t need to create new plastic as I can attach/ weld plastic window spacers to the broken lugs and then shape and drill them after

Now what I need are the slip on flat metal nut tags to replace missing ones - eBay again I reckon

They are called u clips ?‍♂️
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#10
Got any pictures to share
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#11
(12-09-24, 08:48 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Got any pictures to share

Will sort some out - been practicing with plastic sheet

Have to watch the temperature hot was too hot and medium was too cold plus I think I need the gauze in for extra strength

Hoping to take my panel A and B off at the weekend and change my sidelights at the same time
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#12
(12-09-24, 08:48 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Got any pictures to share

Pity your question wasn’t asked a week ago, as I could have done a step by step plastic weld, adding reinforcing with gauze, then finishing off with Q bond. All filled and rubbed down now. Didn’t realise there’d be such interest. Loads of clips on YouTube on the subject. Thumbup
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#13
(13-09-24, 08:09 AM)robbo Wrote:
(12-09-24, 08:48 PM)fazersharp Wrote: Got any pictures to share

Pity your question wasn’t asked a week ago, as I could have done a step by step plastic weld, adding reinforcing with gauze, then finishing off with Q bond. All filled and rubbed down now. Didn’t realise there’d be such interest. Loads of clips on YouTube on the subject. Thumbup

Thank you fazersharp - I will take a look on u tube as I am still experimenting and getting the temperature of the iron right before I mess up my panels
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#14
It was robbo but yes there are loads on utube but they ain't  Fazare they Big Grin
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#15
(13-09-24, 10:30 AM)fazersharp Wrote: It was robbo but yes there are loads on utube but they ain't  Fazare they Big Grin

?

Looking for a scrap piece of plastic as window spacers have too many webs to make a strong lug
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#16
You need to make sure it is the same type plastic as there are several types. My fairing is ABS(lettering moulded into the inside) You can buy plastic welding rods for the different types of plastic. It's quite a minefield when you start digging.
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#17
I watched loads of videos on YouTube about this sort of thing while i was off work.

There were so many ways to fix plastics that i was quite amazed at how easy it could be and also the strength of some of them.

YouTube is your friend here because you would never guess some of the ways.

Using super glue mixed with baking soda AND powdered pencil lead, or powder key lock lube, is a good way but a word of caution it goes so damn hard that you can't even drill or saw it once it's set so you need to be spot on first time with that method before it dries.

Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things.  

And if you need to copy broken plastic parts you can use kids play putty to properly shape stuff with to get things spot on.
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#18
(14-09-24, 10:14 AM)darrsi Wrote: Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things. 

If you're going to do the superglue and baking soda technique, make sure you get decent quality components.

I tried it with some superglue from Poundland and baking soda from eBay and it didn't work well at all Sad
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#19
(14-09-24, 10:52 AM)Grahamm Wrote:
(14-09-24, 10:14 AM)darrsi Wrote: Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things. 

If you're going to do the superglue and baking soda technique, make sure you get decent quality components.

I tried it with some superglue from Poundland and baking soda from eBay and it didn't work well at all Sad
This was going to be my question about those multi packs of superglue in the pound shops.

So what is a good quality super glue.
Also is the mitre glue that comes with an activator spray any good - just the glue itself instead of super glue
.
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#20
(14-09-24, 10:52 AM)Grahamm Wrote:
(14-09-24, 10:14 AM)darrsi Wrote: Also, super glue mixed only with baking soda, or even white polystyrene can have some unusually tough final mixtures, but watch the videos online to give you a much clearer idea how and where to do things. 

If you're going to do the superglue and baking soda technique, make sure you get decent quality components.

I tried it with some superglue from Poundland and baking soda from eBay and it didn't work well at all Sad

The last unbranded "super glue" I bought was a bottle from Temu, which I thought I'd try our as it was so cheap, which turned out to be a Chinese copy, literally, but I used that with standard supermarket baking soda and fixed a plastic lug on a house security camera and it worked a treat and is still solid.
The camera is removed every few months to give the rechargeable battery a full boost as it is a solar powered unit, and I make a point of checking that specific lug and it hasn't budged at all. When you slide the camera onto the wall mount it is held in place by the two lugs so it does have a bit of pressure on it too.

Maybe I'm just imagining it, but I don't find the original branded Super Glue to be as strong as it was years ago, unless you plan on sticking your fingers together which it manages to do quicker than anything else.
On that note I was told a tip where you should very lightly dab surfaces with a wet sponge before using in as the glue sticks much better to a very light coating of moisture. This would also explain why it sticks to skin so easily and quickly due to moisture in porous skin.
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