Std exhaust silencer weight

[74eldiablo]

Yesterday i took delivery of a micron shorty slip on with link pipe, having took off the original silencer i couldnt beleive how much weight was in that thing  :eek a simple test in hands was unbeleivable, so for people who still have the std can on ditch it and get another the weight savings are definately worth it.
I think the centre stand is also coming off as apart from oiling the chain it's just a big chunk off metal and reducing the weight even by a kilo or two will help with the bikes handling

[redmandan]

Im thinking of which Winter upgrades to do this year and new exhaust is certainly in my top 3. Trouble is i would want a new stainless system up to the header and it gets pricey considering it's an old bike.

Im also in 2 minds about the sound. My standard exhaust is nice and quiet when im warming up in the mornings (respect for the neighbours is a two way street) but i would love to hear a bit more oomph going through tunnels, which the standard exhaust just does not provide.

What did you get? How much did you pay and is it excessively noisy?

[YamFazFan]

Would the majority of Fazer owners be that concerned about shaving off weight though?.


I'd have thought that'd be more of an issue to owners of the higher powered sports orientated machines.

[His Dudeness]

The centre stand is really handy for maintenance and you won't feel any difference by removing the weight of it. You'd be get more benefit by ensuring your tyres are at the correct pressure, your brakes are clean and aren't dragging, your air filter is clean and your chain is lubed and at the right tension. Basic stuff like that. Minor weight savings won't make any difference

[Millietant]

The centre stand is really handy for maintenance and you won't feel any difference by removing the weight of it. You'd be get more benefit by ensuring your tyres are at the correct pressure, your brakes are clean and aren't dragging, your air filter is clean and your chain is lubed and at the right tension. Basic stuff like that. Minor weight savings won't make any difference

In my case, when the rider lost 18kg's, the bike seemed to handle, stop and go a bit better - but I kept the centre stand  :rollin

[darrsi]

I've had my bike on the Dyno machine about 3 times since i've had it, and the wizard mechanic who was working on my bike said you would never really get a better performing exhaust than the original.
I agree it's too lumpy and i couldn't stand the whiny gearbox noise to the bike so i changed it straight away anyway, but the Dyno did show up imperfections with new slip on end cans (i have a couple) and there's certainly no extra power boost in any way, even if it sounds and feels like it.
They are just a cosmetic addition to the bike that look and sound better.
I would also recommend a K&N air filter if you haven't' already got one, then do a carb balance, regardless if people say you need one or not, as it does smooth things out.

[BBROWN1664]

:agree

K&N, and a carb balance (especially if you have changed the end can) really does make things smoother through the rev range.

[YamFazFan]

I agree it's too lumpy and i couldn't stand the whiny gearbox noise to the bike so i changed it straight away anyway

Do they drown out that foccin great clunk going from first into second also?. If so I'm in .

[BBROWN1664]

Do they drown out that foccin great clunk going from first into second also?. If so I'm in .

Check your chain adjustment. The FZS is very partial to having it done right. Adjusted correctly theres barely any clunk.

[tommyardin]

:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground.   

[darrsi]

:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground. 

Would’ve thought that not only would it be awkward adjusting it on the side stand, but the tension would be too tight as well?
Even more so if you added a passenger and luggage, i reckon that adjusting it whilst on the centre stand allows for these differences?
I don’t know all this for certain, as it’s never even crossed my mind to adjust the chain on the sidestand before, but i think it makes sense.

[His Dudeness]

The manual says to keep both wheels on the ground. I think the chain gets tighter when the bike is on both wheels compared to when it's on the centre stand so if you adjust the slack to the specified amount while it's on the centre stand, when you put it back down onto two wheels the chain will tighten up so it will be tighter than spec whereas if you tighten it to spec on the side stand that's where it stays. I've always adjusted it on the side stand anyway

[His Dudeness]

:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground. 

That clunk when you knock it down from neutral into first can also be caused by worn cush drive rubbers in the rear wheel. As the rubber wears it creates a bit of free play between the rear sprocket carrier and the wheel and you feel it as a clunk. You rocking the bike forward might be taking up the gap. You can check if there's any play by grabbing the rear sprocket and rotating it clockwise and anti clockwise.

[darrsi]

[quote author=tommyardin link=topic=24637.msg285632#msg285632 date=1539882354]
:agree
My Fazer FZS600 hardly makes
any noise, or clunk going from 1st to 2nd, but, I do get a clunk when going into first from neutral, especially when going into fist with a cold lump, I find slightly easing the bike forward with my tootsies helps to alleviate this.


Chain tension is important, this is one of the reasons you need a centre stand, spin the rear wheel by hand checking the chain tension on the lower chain run directly under the black swinging arm chain guide that is on the top at the front of swinging arm, and make sure you have 1.5 inchs of movement pushing the chain up without excessive force. I understand this is the accepted measurement for a 2003 FZS600 Foxeye.
See photo of manual.
Although I have read somewhere that the chain adjustment should be made with the motorcycle on the side stand, so that some/most of the bikes weight is on the suspension.
I have always done mine on the centre as its easier to adjust it with the rear wheel off the ground. 

That clunk when you knock it down from neutral into first can also be caused by worn cush drive rubbers in the rear wheel. As the rubber wears it creates a bit of free play between the rear sprocket carrier and the wheel and you feel it as a clunk. You rocking the bike forward might be taking up the gap. You can check if there's any play by grabbing the rear sprocket and rotating it clockwise and anti clockwise.
[/quote]


My bike has always done it, even when i put new cush drive rubbers in the wheel.
It's just a quirk of the bike, and i do the same as Tommy, just roll the bike forward a bit when changing down and it is nowhere near as harsh or noisy.

[His Dudeness]

yeah mine does it too. I think it's a Yamaha thing :lol

[YamFazFan]

Just done some measuring....


On centre stand- 30mm chain movement at the rubber thingy.


On side stand-26mm chain movement at the same place.

[YamFazFan]

Just been out for a ride around petrol fill up and it's changing gear silently now :rolleyes .


Maybe got enough slack now.

[robbo]

If there's a slight amount of play in the chain when the swinging arm is parallel to the ground, then there'll be plenty of free movement in any other position as it's only going to get slacker whether weight is added or removed.

[darrsi]

If there's a slight amount of play in the chain when the swinging arm is parallel to t4he ground, then there'll be plenty of free movement in any other position as it's only going to get slacker whether weight is added or removed.

Yeah, what he said.  :lol

[His Dudeness]

Think about it why does the chain need slack in the first place? It’s because you have to allow for changes in chain tension due to the up and down movement of the swing arm due to the suspension compressing and extending. The position of the front sprocket is fixed rigid to the engine and the engine is bolted into the frame so the position of the front sprocket can’t move up or down but the rear sprocket is part of the swing arm assembly so the position of the rear sprocket changes, it has to move up and down relative to the front sprocket when the swing arm moves up and down. If you look at picture 1


Imagine that picture 1 is when both wheels are on the ground the distance on side A is equal to the distance on B. In picture 2 say you hit a bump as you're riding and the suspension compresses and the swing arm pivots up around it’s pivot point so the rear sprocket pivots up relative to the front sprocket. This means the distance on side A will get shorter and side B will get longer so the tension on side A will be less and the tension on side B will be greater. That's why you need slack in the chain.

In picture 3 when you put the bike on the centre stand you’re doing the opposite, you’re taking the weight off the rear suspension so the suspension extends and the swing arm pivots down so side A would get longer and side B would get shorter creating more tension on side A and more slack on side B. That means if you adjust the chain to have 30mm slack on side B when the bike is on the centre stand, when you put it back down onto it’s wheels and the suspension compresses and the swing arm pivots up side B will tighten up and you’ll have less than 30mm slack. YamFazFan proved that’s what happens with his measurements. On the centre stand he measured 30mm slack. When he put the bike on both wheels he measured 26mm because the weight of the bike caused the suspension to compress and the swing arm to pivot up slightly. The slack side will tighten even more when you sit on the bike because you’re compressing the suspension more and that’s causing the swing arm to pivot up more. It'll tighten more if you have a pillion. And it'll tighten more when you hit a bump in the road.