Hi guys and girls
Recently when I start up my bike she's been making this really noticeable whizzing sound from the engine while she is cold, as she warms up it progressively gets quieter, I'm not saying its louder than the exhaust or anything but while it is sitting there warming up I can definitely hear it and I haven't heard at all in the over 2 years I've owned her.
It almost sounds like a chain going round like the normal chain near the back wheel except for in the engine, I don't really know an awful lot about bikes so I have not even a clue for what it could be.
The reason I'm posting about it now is because tonight while I was riding around I started to hear it when accelerating, this time it was even louder than when the bike is just sat there warming up except for this was after 20 minutes of riding so she was definitely warm by this point.
She is a 2001 FZS600 with over 43k miles, she has never had any work done to the engine as far as I'm aware of (except regular oil and filter changes of course), only thing I've ever done even near that area is replace the carbs after my old ones started leaking fuel, however this work was carried out over a year ago.
Hope someone can tell me what it could be and if it is something to be worried about or if I'm just being stupid.
Thanks in advance guys.
15-09-18, 06:53 AM
(This post was last modified: 15-09-18, 01:28 PM by deeteefifty.)
Perhaps the cam chain is worn, my bike has similar mileage and a few weeks back I had the the carbs off and took the opportunity to remove the cam chain tensioner to get an idea of chain wear, there was 3 ratchet tooth segments of adjustment left on the tensioning rod, so it's time for a new one soon. I've read on here that the chain can become a bit noisy just before the tensioner automatically clicks up another tooth to retension the chain.
15-09-18, 08:06 AM
(This post was last modified: 15-09-18, 08:36 AM by redmandan.)
From what you describe I am almost certain it is the cam chain/cam chain tensioner. If the tensioner just needs to click one more notch down it's a very easy fix. If you need to replace the chain it's a bit more work. I did it this last spring and made a short video, you can hear whether your problem is the same as mine at the start of the vid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUBJ76LJVts
there are some good, simple ways to get the tensioner to budge that require no tools. Let us know if you want to hear them
Wouldn't describe camchain rattle as a "whizzing" sound at all, best description is more like a sewing machine.
Either compare to some of these, or post a video with the noise, you'd be surprised what can be evaluated on here by the sound of a bike.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_q...hain+noise
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Out of all the noises reported on this forum over many years, grinding, buzing,rumbling,knocking, whirring, rattling, have to say that "whizzing" is a new one.
I don't do rain or threat there of. dry rider only with no shame.
a video of the noise would be very helpful. you could try the screwdriver against your ear trick. press the handle to your ear and the pointy end to different parts of the engine. you should be able to hear where the noise is coming from through the screwdriver. you can quieten the exhaust if you hold a rag over the end can. if it is cam chain noise, some people have had luck advancing the tensioner by removing the plugs, putting the bike in gear and pushing it backwards. it's supposed to create a bit of extra slack on the slack side of the chain which allows the tensioner to advance.
(15-09-18, 09:27 AM)fazersharp link Wrote: Out of all the noises reported on this forum over many years, grinding, buzing,rumbling,knocking, whirring, rattling, have to say that "whizzing" is a new one. does it sounds like an egg cup rattling around in a sewing machine :lol
Sorry for my poor description guys, I will upload a video of the bike starting up from cold and hopefully it will show what I'm talking about, if however it is the cam chain/cam chain tensioner, if the cam chain is worn do I have to replace both the cam chain and the cam chain tensioner or just the cam chain itself?
Hope that question makes sense, I will upload a video of the bike starting up tomorrow.
Thanks for all your responses so far.
16-09-18, 12:23 AM
(This post was last modified: 16-09-18, 07:47 AM by darrsi.)
My bike's mainly used for commuting, apart from a blast today where i "may" have broken a few rules , but the last time it took about 6 months to go to the next notch and the silence was deafening when it finally clicked, and i actually thought there was something wrong! :lol
Just started again recently but it's not a major at all.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
16-09-18, 08:20 AM
(This post was last modified: 16-09-18, 08:39 AM by deeteefifty.)
(15-09-18, 11:46 PM)Grant1Shepherd link Wrote: Sorry for my poor description guys, I will upload a video of the bike starting up from cold and hopefully it will show what I'm talking about, if however it is the cam chain/cam chain tensioner, if the cam chain is worn do I have to replace both the cam chain and the cam chain tensioner or just the cam chain itself?
Hope that question makes sense, I will upload a video of the bike starting up tomorrow.
Thanks for all your responses so far.
It's unlikely the tensioner is defective, it's at the rear of the cylinders under the carbs, loosen the centre nut but don't remove it yet, remove the two outer allen bolts, at this point mine needed a tap with a soft mallet to break it free from the gasket (order one in advance) the tensioner will spring out as a complete unit, now unscrew the big nut you loosened first carefully because the springs under it will still be in light tension. There's a spring loaded pawl on the end of the tensioner press it down and push the ratchet serrated shaft back to the body, this is now fully retracted, you can now place it back in the cylinder block, nip up the two allen bolts with gasket in place, then press the tensioner rod in till you feel it tension the chain, remove the Allen bolts and tensioner but don't touch the tensioner rod, once out count and note how many ratchet teeth are exposed then extend the rod to see how many teeth are remaining, if there's only a few, it's soon time for a chain. If the tensioner springs are broken or the pawl is faulty it needs repairing. Re assemble as if you were doing the measurement stage again, this time secure the Allen bolts properly, put the springs in, you'll hear the ratchet click up then put the top nut on and secure it. I did mine with carbs off so it could be twaty with them in place.
It's not as hard as the essay describes, words can paint a thousand pictures ?. There'll be a film about it somewhere.
Hi guys, apologies for the delay in getting these videos out to you, just been a bit busy today, here are the videos of the bike starting up and running from a cold start, I hope you can hear the slight noise I am on about, let me know what you guys thinks, many thanks in advance.
Video 1 - https://youtu.be/-nugTWIdnCw
Video 2 - https://youtu.be/iVoSvls46kI
Quick note about the videos, I think you'll get a better sound quality with earphones on, apologies.
The exhaust is pretty loud but it sounds like a normal Fazer to me. To hear a clickety cam chain type into Youtube "FZS 600 cam chain tick before". A chap with a yellow Fazer made a good before and after video of a noisy cam chain
Sounds a little lumpy to me but nothing outrageous or bad.
When you changed the carbs did you balance them properly, because if they weren't then that can cause lumpiness on idle.
And what RPM is the bike set to when idling as well?
I would do a quick test and see if your TPS is in the right position too, again that can cause idle issues if wrong or on its way out.
Not hearing any whining noises though at all.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
(16-09-18, 11:14 PM)darrsi link Wrote: Sounds a little lumpy to me but nothing outrageous or bad.
When you changed the carbs did you balance them properly, because if they weren't then that can cause lumpiness on idle.
And what RPM is the bike set to when idling as well?
I would do a quick test and see if your TPS is in the right position too, again that can cause idle issues if wrong or on its way out.
Not hearing any whining noises though at all.
Same as that.
Nothing no whizzy or whining, to me just a bit of cam chain slack which just might tighten its self up and the usual bit of clutch basket rattle. With the engine warmed up listen on the clutch side of the bike and pull the clutch lever into the bars and see it the sound changes/diminishes, if it does forget about it, a complete new clutch assembly (Basket, Centre, Steel and Friction Plates plus Springs) will cost a fortune and my betting within 1000 miles it will be as noisy.
Tick over is a bit lumpy, was it still on a bit of choke when you videoed it?
And what end can do you have on it, I am guessing baffles removed as it sounds very throaty.
Hey guys
Thanks for watching the videos and replying, I will try to answer all the little questions you've had about the bike and how it was started.
1. The bike was started with no choke, in nearly 3 years of owning it I have never had to use the choke, she has started up on the button every time for me, I use the bike all year round and even in the winter she never seems to struggle.
2.The carbs were replaced over a year ago when the old set of carbs started leaking fuel, the new set were balanced after being put on. My last service was in March and she had her carbs balanced then as well however yes when you start her at the moment the RPM needle does go up a tiny bit every so often so I do think she is possible in need of another one soon.
3. The idle is set on 1,200-1,300RPM (Just below 1 and a half thousand RPM basically). Before she was set to 1,700RPM however I was told by a mechanic this was too high and so he lowered to below 1 and half thousand RPM).
4.The exhaust is a Delkevic 200mm Round Carbon Fibre exhaust - There is no baffle in the exhaust
I will give that little pulling in the clutch and listening out for a noise change test a go, hopefully it is not as bad as the most recent comment said, I think I would cry if I needed all that work doing to her, thanks again for making me aware, hope the information I have provided is helpful in anyway possible for any noise you all might of thought was not normal, however I am slightly happy that so far no one has said it DEFINITELY sounds like the cam chain.
Look forward to reading your next comments.
Thanks again to all of you so far.
Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.
And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722...#msg262253
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
dont sound that bad at all ass was said can hear the clutch basket and minor cam chain rattle witch is prolly about to adjust itself i wouldnt be overly worried about it
Hello mate i just did my exhuast gaskets today mines now so much quiter but mine sounded like yours so do your exhuast gaskets first at least its cheaper than an engine.... Ovet the next few weeks when headers are hot wd40 them keep doing that on studs and bolts and replace the gaskets
(17-09-18, 06:53 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Something else to consider, when the carbs were balanced how old/what condition was your air filter in?
It's quite important that the air filter is freely breathing otherwise the balancing process can give a false reading.
And do that TPS check, it only takes a minute to do and it's very possible that could be the problem too, especially with no known history of the replacement carbs.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,22722...#msg262253
Hi mate, thank you for all your responses so far, I really appreciate it, I have a question about the TPS, if there was an issue with my TPS would there not be an issue with my throttle at all? Because my throttle is perfect to be honest, I have never had an issue with the throttle at all, however I don't really know about this kinda of stuff so please let me know. thanks in advance.
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