TPS fault code (3000) on the Rev counter. Please help me fix it.

[nitheesh]

Hey Guys,


When my fzs 600 which has done 65000km so far is showing the tps fault code when ever I turn on the Ignition. The indicator in the rev counter constantly shows 3000 and goes back to 0. However after I ride for some time and turn the engine off the rev indicator shows 10500 and goes back to 0.
I have read that 10000 means that tps needs adjusting is it true. I read that it would normally show 10000 when I unplug and replug the tps connector, but in this case I am not doing anything it just shows 10500 something on its own. I am newbie I want to remove the tps connector and replug it but I dont know how to do it. I tried pulling it hard but its really tight, I dont see any screws, how do I disconnect the connector?


Also I dont see any issues while driving the bike, so can I keep riding it even with this issue?

[darrsi]

To be honest if it's already plugged in and showing 3000, or randomly moving about, then it sounds like you need a new one anyway.


3000 is the fault code, which will show up if the TPS is faulty, or unplugged.


The position it's meant to be on is 5000, after you've unplugged it then plugged it back in, and if it's working okay but is a bit offset and needing adjustment then it would be either sitting on 0rpm or 10,000rpm.


To remove the TPS outer plug there is a small catch that needs to be released, i personally use my ignition key to GENTLY unhook the catch just inside of the front of the plug. Don't start heavily twisting screwdrivers, or your key, as you will break something.
Look in the photo of the TPS below, and see the little tab in the middle at the top, (on the bike it will be rotated 90 degrees to the left), the outer casing just needs a bit of encouragement to unclip it.


When unplugged turn the ignition key to the on position (don't start engine) and you'll see the RPM needle will go up and down from 0rpm to 3000rpm.


Then plug it back in and see where the needle then settles.


0rpm or 10,000rpm would normally just mean adjusting back to 5000rpm.


To adjust it you need a T25 tamper proof torx allen key, (with the hole in the middle).
Just undo the 2 screws, rotate the TPS until it lands on 5000rpm, then tighten them back up, and that would normally be it.


The fact you're getting a 3000 reading without even touching it does not really sound too hopeful though so be warned you most likely have a knackered one.


Personally i can feel the bike is very wrong when a TPS is on it's way out. If you're new to biking though (?) then you could be excused for not realizing an issue, until you ride it once it's fixed or replaced, then you'll know how wrong it was.
The bike will feel a bit jerky and erratic when riding, needing a bit more clutch control, especially below 3000 revs. There will be no real smoothness in running at all.


Unless it blatantly goes to 3000rpm after trying to adjust it then put it in the correct position then test it again in a couple of days and see if it has stayed on the 5000rpm mark.
If it refuses to budge at all, like one of mine did, stuck on 10,000, then that also is a sign of buying a new one.


If it needs replacing, don't buy a used one, as it will only break down very soon again, and is false economy. A used TPS will be a minimum 14 years old, with unknown mileage on it so don't even consider it.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xt25+tamper+proof+torx.TRS0&_nkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_sacat=0


https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw=t25+tamper+proof+torx&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xfzs+600+throttle+position+sensor.TRS0&_nkw=fzs+600+throttle+position+sensor&_sacat=0

[nitheesh]

Hey darrsi,


Thanks for the reply, your answer is really helpful. I am a fairly experienced rider but I am new to the fzs 600. I brought this motorcycle a couple of months ago. When I brought it the odo was showing 60000km something and now I am at 65500km.


I do am having problems below 3000rpm, the engine stutters a lot and I have to use a lot of clutch, its really hard to drive it in traffic. I actually asked about that in another post here, where someone suggested balancing the carbs. I took it to a mechanic for the same and he said everything was ok with bike  . So I was thinking may be that's how this bike is setup from the factory.


The engine stutter in low revs was there since I brought the bike, but tps fault code has only started showing up recently, like around 100-200km before. So can these both be related or the stutter could be due to carbs out of balance issue?

[BBROWN1664]

These bikes are great in traffic and at low revs normally. Something isn't right.

Follow the procedure to check/adjust the TPS. It may just be a corroded connector which will fix itself when you unplug/plug the connector.
Once the TPS is set, make sure the bike has good plugs, air filter etc and make sure the idle speed is correct. If the idle is nice and smooth then you may get away without balancing the carbs but there is never any harm in checking it.

[darrsi]

Hey darrsi,


Thanks for the reply, your answer is really helpful. I am a fairly experienced rider but I am new to the fzs 600. I brought this motorcycle a couple of months ago. When I brought it the odo was showing 60000km something and now I am at 65500km.


I do am having problems below 3000rpm, the engine stutters a lot and I have to use a lot of clutch, its really hard to drive it in traffic. I actually asked about that in another post here, where someone suggested balancing the carbs. I took it to a mechanic for the same and he said everything was ok with bike  . So I was thinking may be that's how this bike is setup from the factory.


The engine stutter in low revs was there since I brought the bike, but tps fault code has only started showing up recently, like around 100-200km before. So can these both be related or the stutter could be due to carbs out of balance issue?

The TPS has to be functioning properly before even thinking about doing a carb balance, along with having a clean air filter.
They have a habit of breaking down rather than just working then stopping completely, so it can take a while sometimes before you even sense that there is a problem as it creeps up on you.
By the sounds of it though there's a chance it's never been quite right since you've had the bike and everything you're describing points at that now being properly faulty.
You will probably find that if you decide to replace it, which I would, then it will suddenly feel like you're riding a different bike than what you've got used to.

My faulty ones never got as far as displaying the 3000rpm fault code when still plugged in, from memory one just made the needle bounce all over the place and I think the other one just wouldn't budge from 10,000rpm when I tried adjusting it. Both of those were bought used, so didn't last long either, so it only made sense to then buy new, which I should've done to start with in hindsight, but at the time I wasn't as familiar with the signs as I am now.

If you buy one then a carb balance certainly wouldn't hurt at all either to really smooth things out, but as I mentioned before make sure you have a clean or new air filter for best results before doing it.

[darrsi]

These bikes are great in traffic and at low revs normally. Something isn't right.

Follow the procedure to check/adjust the TPS. It may just be a corroded connector which will fix itself when you unplug/plug the connector.
Once the TPS is set, make sure the bike has good plugs, air filter etc and make sure the idle speed is correct. If the idle is nice and smooth then you may get away without balancing the carbs but there is never any harm in checking it.

  Yeah, what he said 

[nitheesh]

Ok, I followed the below steps:


1. Turned on the ignition (Few seconds later it started showing 3000 fault code)
2. Removed the tps connector (showing 3000 fault code as expected)
3. Blow some air into the connector and tps.
4. Connected it back - Odo just stayed at 0 after connecting, and few seconds later it showed 3000 fault code again.


Does this mean an issues with the connector wire/tps? I want to check if there power at the connector ends but I dont have a multi meter 

[darrsi]

Ok, I followed the below steps:


1. Turned on the ignition (Few seconds later it started showing 3000 fault code)
2. Removed the tps connector (showing 3000 fault code as expected)
3. Blow some air into the connector and tps.
4. Connected it back - Odo just stayed at 0 after connecting, and few seconds later it showed 3000 fault code again.


Does this mean an issues with the connector wire/tps? I want to check if there power at the connector ends but I dont have a multi meter 

It can't be any more blatant......the 'fault' code is doing just that......showing a fault.
Time for a new one.

[darrsi]

Unless you've mishandled the TPS, which you clearly haven't, then it's highly unlikely to be a wiring issue.
The TPS is fooked, clear and simple.
On the plus side, you can look forward to a much more pleasant riding experience in the very near future.