Clutch biting point issue, worn clutch basket?

[Hugh Mungus]

Sounds like the cheap levers to me.
The only way to know for sure is to swap the clutch lever back and see if the problem occurs immediately.

[b1k3rdude]

Check the pivot hole in the old lever you removed and see if it has elongated.

Hole was fine

• Sounds like the cheap levers to me.
  
• The only way to know for sure is to swap the clutch lever back and see if the problem occurs immediately.
  

• Theap, but the only issue can see with them is that the lever dimensions are off, as in the lever is too close to the bar depending on the span/cable adjustment.
  
• See my post above, better span adjustable levers have pretty much fixed the issue, so I dont need to waste time swapping the oem lever back.
  

@Gnasher, I should also mention I have canted the lever assy up a tad so it makes grabbing the lever a bit easier.

[Gnasher]

Glad you sorted it mate 


It's rare FZS1000's clutches fail with normal use, these adjustable levers are often a source of problems  :thumbdown

[b1k3rdude]

these adjustable levers are often a source of problems

I have medium or size 9 hand and I find the position and biting point of the stock lever to combersome for commuting, so I need span adjustable - I just dont want to be paying £££ for a pair of these fucking things like seems to be the case most of the places I looked. Even the 'better' one I have now from memory cost me £65 second hand off a fellow foccer.

Just which there was a comprehensive review/compare of some of the various makes..

[NorthWestern]

I bought a Chinese copy of this:

https://www.t3-racing.co.uk/products/bre...utch-lever

Was £15 delivered.  Put 30k miles on with it, no issues and was adjustable, levers feel really nice etc.  Matched the master cylinder I had too!  The only downside is there is no provision for a switch so I just bridged it.

Edit: just looked and you can now get them for £11.  They do say they come with a switch (mine didn't) but it looks like they have put the switch in the threaded span adjust hole.  So you can either have a switch or the ability to adjust the span. I left mine std, was better than stock lever for reach.

[slappy]

When I had my gen1 1000 I fitted an adjustable span clutch lever from a Kawasaki 900 ninja.
It was cheap to do and looked " factory",  I am fairly sure a few other people had done it before me and I just copied them, you had to use the Kawasaki perch as well.


Remembered now it was the clutch lever from a Kawasaki ZX9 , C1 or C2 model.

[b1k3rdude]

Well it turns out its not completely gone or fixed, which is when I realised two things -

• I am and have always run heated grips, and these are larger in diameter than stock grips.
  
• I am and have always use foam lever covers.
  

I am guessing that the two combined directly effect the span distance, so that my size 9 hands are unable to allow for enough lever-throw. But I also think that there is also some wear on my clutch basket fingers (I'm going to check if I have a spare clutch cover gasket), which when added to the above means everything is right on the point of giving enough and not giving enough disengagement of the clutch plates.