My Fazer600 "00 has been restricted at the carbs for a year now and I'm unsure if those are causing my problems. I've recently changed the spark plugs/carb rubbers/battery/fuel filter and cleaned out the old air filter with compressed air. It's ran fine up until Winter, the bike will start up when kept inside, but a few hours outdoors and I'm having to resort to bump starts to get going(with the old/new battery) I also have horrendous idling and bogging I've attempted to adjust idle mixtures but it doesn't make a difference. The bogging is really bad at low speeds/gears and there is a tonne of exhaust popping when downshifting no matter how often I try to adjust the mixture it doesn't help.
Check voltage of battery or charge it ,do you do short journeys?, as you have done the plugs & carb rubbers with no problems till now, check that your down pipes are in good condition no holes as I see by your pic you have the original ones fitted as this can cause popping/rough idle,bogging as air is being sucked in affecting fuel mixtures. As you have adjusted your mixtures carbs will need to be re balanced.
You can't clean a dirty paper air filter with compressed air, it doesn't really work like that.
If you don't know the history of it, or you know it hasn't been changed for ages then it needs to be changed.
Add to the fact the bike is already restricted then airflow is even more important.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
The battery was fitted the other day, and yes short journeys It's been roughly 10 mile round trips daily to work don't get out much due to winter weather. Waiting on new air filter, pipes and filter shouldn't affect starting up though?
Brand new, it's a Yuasa YT12B-BS Powersport I doubt the battery is the issue, I could hear the engine wanting to fire but was really hesitant. Got it to Bump start on first attempt.
I was going to suggest changing the plug caps for NGK SD05F ones as the originals tend to break down and cause misfiring, but looking at your photo it seems rather non-standard… is that a coil-on-plug mod?
(06-12-17, 10:46 PM)Kura link Wrote: The battery was fitted the other day, and yes short journeys It's been roughly 10 mile round trips daily to work don't get out much due to winter weather. Waiting on new air filter, pipes and filter shouldn't affect starting up though?
These bikes run rich, if the air filter isn't breathing then of course it could affect starting.
More people are born because of alcohol than will ever die from it.
Definitely the engine turning and no mods that I'm aware of will double check. I think my main cause is the restriction plates being in too long and an aging air filter. I'm aged for my DAS in a month(hope my theory is still valid). Will fit a new air filter and if problem still persists I'll look over all the plugs/electrics and hoses once more before new year then wait till I pass my test and get the carbs balanced/cleaned once the plates come out. All this restriction nonsense is a pain.
06-12-17, 11:55 PM (This post was last modified: 06-12-17, 11:56 PM by Disorderlypunk.)
you did say earlier that you cleaned your air filter with compressed air
although it will look cleanish they never are as all the open cells fill with microscopic dirt that clings like a mutha and obstruct flow
always worth the £10 for a replacement if your in there (if you go K+N thats up to you but will set you back more)
looking at the pic i dont think thats a coilpack mod as the wire thickness still looks HT size - but they do look a bit different from a standard setup
07-12-17, 12:58 AM (This post was last modified: 07-12-17, 01:02 AM by tommyardin.)
(07-12-17, 12:03 AM)darrsi link Wrote: Just make sure you only do one thing at a time otherwise it can confuse matters.
And make a log of any changes you do for future reference.
[size=1em] Two things, firstly those plug caps don't look standard, in fact I know they are not.[/size]
Secondly Darrsi is quite right about doing one thing at a time.
If you do four things at once and the bike runs fine you will not know what thing cured the problem, then you will not have learned anything for future reference, do one thing say filter then try the bike for a few miles and see if its made a difference, if not them move on to the next thing, I know it might mean removing the fuel tank for a second time but it only takes a few minutes.
You will learn something and if those same symptoms show there ugly head a couple of years down the line you will be equipped with the knowledge of how to rectify it.
I keep a log of all the work I have done on my Fazer and parts fitted, Dates & Mileage.
Reading through what I have just written sounds anal, but it does give me a full picture of the bikes history since i purchased it and it shows me when things need to be replaced.
Cheers for the input, have a new air filter arriving Saturday and found a small hole/leak at base of the exhaust will get that fixed and not look at anything else until I've tried it with the new changes then I'll make a note of things/try one thing at a time. If all that fails I'll just have a mechanic look at it, I'm still a novice at the maintenance side but learning a tonne.
when you say small hole at base of exhaust - do you have the factory exhaust on there and do you mean at the lowest/most forward part of the silencer - i think that one is meant to be there for drainage - i noticed that hole once i realized how fucked the insides were as i was getting a lot of escaping gasses through it
(07-12-17, 09:24 PM)Fazerider link Wrote: Note that there is meant to be a drain hole at the bottom of the exhaust can. It’s there to drain condensation out.
I'm aware of the drain hole, this is a different hole I can see exhaust fumes firing out of it just as the base of the can itself
07-12-17, 11:11 PM (This post was last modified: 07-12-17, 11:12 PM by Kura.)
(07-12-17, 09:16 PM)Disorderlypunk link Wrote: when you say small hole at base of exhaust - do you have the factory exhaust on there and do you mean at the lowest/most forward part of the silencer - i think that one is meant to be there for drainage - i noticed that hole once i realized how fucked the insides were as i was getting a lot of escaping gasses through it
Hole is around there, and yes it's the factory exhaust.
(Apologies Disorderlypunk, I didn’t notice you’d already made the point about the drain hole.)
The innards of the silencer are mild steel and rot through at the base so the gases can blow out of the gap around the pipe where it enters the stainless can. You may be able to bodge it by squishing in as much high temperature silicone sealant as possible. I got a couple of extra years life out of mine that way.
Having said that, I doubt it’s the cause of your running issue which sounds much more like an electrical problem to me.
why did i not think to look at the pic that stares me in the face everytime i look at this post lol
yeah that is a hole hole not a drain hole - assuming you put the red circle in the right place and not trying to mess with our heads
bit of gun gum should solve a little problem there - no point paying a guy to weld up a hole on an exhaust that is hitting the end of its life
but as fazerider just pointed out - it aint your running issue as i have run with no pipe at all without a problem
(apart from deafness - I SAID APART FROM DEAFNESS)
