Bike doesn't turn on / no lights

[tommyardin]

Not convinced myself that it's just water damage as plugs are melted,why is there a 25 amp fuse where a 10 amp should be.  [img alt=Shocked]http://foc-u.co.uk/Smileys/efocicon/shocked.gif[/img]

Hi bandit,
I guess it could just be that the connection was corroded slightly either by a water ingress or corroded because of a loose connection arcing and sparking. A loose joint like that causes burning and blackening of a contact, that in turn causes more arcing and the fuse to blow and the previous owner got over the blowing fuse by shoving a heavy fuse in line, that in itself would seem to cure the problem until the joint became so unstable that it melted the connector.
My guess would be it had nothing to do with a water ingress but a loose arcing connection. IMO  :rolleyes

[Disorderlypunk]

holy crap what happened there - not been on this post in a while expecting it to be a simple thing like a loose connector that just needed you to find
but bloody hell thats an impressive failure
does look like it could have been corrosion on the connections causing a smaller contact patch causing excessive heat and in turn smouldering connector block
but who knows - a bit of trimming and the correct type of connector and you will be laughing again
i will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCK
i do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loom

[Diogo.fps]

Thank you to everyone who's taking the time to explain, as you can see i'm no expert  :b 
But I'm learning bit by bit

i will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCK
i do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loom

I was intending to try to find the same type of connector block that the fazer originally uses.
But can you tell me what's the problem with that connector anyway?

[Disorderlypunk]

it is just a bodge pure and simple and i love a bodge here and there to work as a fix untill it can be done properly (i use a lot of them)
but that connector block was designed for use in houses and is an unsightly thing on a bike
a OEM connector is often not available and cost a fortune from aftermarket suppliers and i rarely use them
but a crimped bullet/spade connector is the way to go as they are made for vehicles and not your house


[edit] assuming you are meaning the block i pictured - there is nothing wrong with the oem block its unfortunate that yours had a failure that is rare to see

[celticbiker]

Thank you to everyone who's taking the time to explain, as you can see i'm no expert  :b 
But I'm learning bit by bit

[quote author=Disorderlypunk link=topic=23506.msg271407#msg271407 date=1511134757]
i will repeat this bit - CORRECT TYPE OF CONNECTOR BLOCK
i do that because there are certain types of block i see that never belong in a bikes wiring loom

I was intending to try to find the same type of connector block that the fazer originally uses.
But can you tell me what's the problem with that connector anyway?
[/quote]
A simple 2 pin waterproof connector can be had here.


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-11-WAY-PIN-...P_YZtXs2dg


But you can also get waterproof ones here


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Way-Pin-Car-...Sw2XFUbGkZ


But do ensure the correct load rating before buying.

[tommyardin]

As Celtic showed they are the DOGS BOLLOCKS.
Either that or solder and heat shrink, but the connectors that Celtic recommended are better because ease of undoing should the need ever arise (Probably Not) but it is a possibility