A few months back having grown tired of my old VFR, I swapped it for a 2004 FZR 1000 with rethnal bars. Loved it but like my wife after a bit its started to drive me mad.....only kidding dear!!.
When I go to start it (the bike not the wife) all is good, it makes all the correct clicks and fires into life on all 4 cylinders. It then just dies and won't start again. It turns over but it just refuses to fire up.
If I leave it for a few hours it will start again but then just dies as before. I've replaced the plugs and checked the carbs are getting fuel which they are. It's got 40,000 on the clock and an unknown history, however it looks in great condition so someone has looked after it at some point.
I would be greatful for any ideas on how to resolve the issue
Does it have an immobiliser fitted? If so, from previous experience, I'd get that checked out.
If it has, search my previous threads and see if the symptoms are the same.
There's also lots of other useful tips from other forum users on that thread which you might want to check.
Was the bike left unused for some time, if so it could be partially clogged pilot jets
When it starts it uses all the fuel in the pilot circuit. Then when left for a while it refills the pilot circuit and starts and stops again.
It's not the battery and it's not been left for any more than 4 or 5 days, it's not got an immobiliser. Not sure where the carb drain is but I'll read up and see where that takes me. Thanks for the advice if anyone has any further thoughts please let me know.
(09-01-17, 09:12 PM)unfazed link Wrote: If it has not been idle for a while then it is probably dirt in the float bowl that is being sucked up blocking the pilot jet.
Draining the float bowls on to white kitchen toweling to see if any dirt does come out.
No. 6 is the drain screw, not sure how easy it is to get at on the FZR
I think it might have been a typing error as it shows his bike as a gen 1 and I don't think they made the fzr in 04 or he abbreviated fazer to fzr
When shes stops working, check if you got spark, if not its the ignitor unit (black box under the seat) and if you can hear the fuel pump running if not could be the relay.
This could happen due a cracked solder joint as the parts expand due to the heat it stops making contact and the bike stops.
Most likely it will be the ignitor box aka CDI aka ECU.
If does are running as said before check your carbs.
If your bike as a factory alarm thats knowed to give some problems too.
ECU failures are very rare and - to the best of my knowledge - it wouldn't start at all if the ECU were faulty. Don't discount it completely but equally, don't jump to that conclusion right now.
You say the fuel pump is running when you're attempting to start. Do you mean just the usual few clicks when you first turn on the ignition, or is the pump constantly trying to prime the carbs? If it's the latter, it shouldn't do that ... once the float bowls are up to the correct level, the pump should shut down until the fuel level drops.
Have you checked to see if you have a spark when attempting to restart after the initial start-stop-won't start sequence you described? If you have a decent spark, it would point to a fuel issue.
When you say it starts then dies, do you mean the revs gradually decay until it stalls out? Or does it just stop dead?
Way back when, I had several instances where the bike just stopped dead and wouldn't start again. Turned out to the Throttle Position Sensor was way out of alignment. Well, so the dealer told me. Certainly, once adjusted it never happened again.
On an old CBX550 (cor, remember those?) a similar problem was tracked to the coils breaking down at high temperatures, but modern bikes have way better build quality these days and the Fazer has two coils but something else may be breaking the connection as it heats up as has been suggested above. There are a number of white connectors all over the bike and they might be corroded. Start with the big white one under the tank on the near side. It's known to a be a problem... I was stranded for hours.
Sorry I've not been as clear as I should have. When it starts, all 4 cylinders fire up for a couple of seconds then the revs drop and it cuts out regardless of what's happening with the throttle. It turns over after that but it won't fire up.
I'm surprised nobody has run through the starting technique, the FZS1000 is a little fickle especially in cold weather so a little 'knack' is required.
Switch on the ignition, let the pump finish priming then move the choke lever about 15mm towards you. Stab the starter and the moment the engine fires give a little twist of the throttle, just for a second. The revs will then rise fairly rapidly, once it gets to about 3,000rpm (it does so very quickly) move the choke lever away from you just a nadge until it settles at about 2200rpm or so. Ride off and knock choke off after a couple of hundred yards.
This is how I've started mine almost every day for the last 5 years, the only real trick is sussing when the weather is cold enough to use the choke at all, in warmer weather it doesn't need any (my bike is Ivanised).
Good post, SiPie. Exactly what I was hinting at when I asked about choke use. I wondered if Ross was using too much of it or maybe too used to FI'ed VFR sorting its cold-start fuelling automatically.
I've given the starting procedure a few attempts but no joy.
Falcon, the pump dosent run when I fire it up.
Today I noticed when the ignition is turned on there is what I can only describe as a faint crackling noise coming from the the unit the ignition barrel is located in. If I lightly touch the wiring loom coming out of the bottom I can feel very light vibration. To me it sounds and feels like electrical arcing.
Most likely the EXUP servo motor which operates when the ignition is switched on.
Is your choke cable intact, check it by looking in from the left side of the carbs and operate the choke lever, you should see a lever operating and push out the choke plunger.
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