Skipping or spinning...

[anutz]

Done the knackered one, as you can see came out evenly, just took my time as others suggested, was a little nervy but all seems good...


Now...how do i get the other one, the lip is almost none existant?

[anutz]

Anyone any experience on how i get the needle roller bearing out, i.e.the other one in the rear wheel.


I have access to the back of it but its almost got no lip above the inner of the wheel assembly, so dont see how i can use the same technique i used for the other bearing.


Anutz

[unfazed]

Is the needle bearing actually worn? I have only ever replaced one, but many roller bearings. Last roller bearing I replaced was on Downeys bike and the needle and sprocket hub bearings were fine.

Best way to check is is with the axle in and the new bearing lightly seated, unfortunately you have driven the new bearing all the way in and I do not think it is possible to remove the needle bearing without removing the roller bearing first. Thankfully for you if the needle bearing is worn, new roller bearing are very cheap even for branded ones, last FAG one I bought from a local supplier was €10.
Worst case scenario is you will have to  remove the roller bearing again and use it to push out the seal thus keeping the seal intact.

Last time I removed one of these needle bearing I used an off cut of steel 300mm long from the local engineering shop the same diameter as the spacer. Dry heat and a good few thumps of a Club hammer should get it out, just ensure it is well supported at a height than the length of the bearing and the space for the bearing to drop out is clear.. It will much harder to get out than the roller.

[lew600fazer]

[quote author=anutz link=topic=20882.msg240222#msg240222 date=1472144578]
Front





Rear




On it's way, but not enough to skip, at least not if adjusted correctly

[/quote]
Those sprockets are shot and I suspect the chain is knackered as well, looks like I would be renewing those first before going down another route, they are toast.

[anutz]

Thanks both...


Unfazed, have not put the new bearings in yet, not even got them yet


May be worth doing if i am doing the other one, the sprocket carrier one i can easily do any time...


As for the sprockets/chain, yep doing them without a doubt, if u look at the video i posted a link to earlier you will see why i also ended up removing this bearing..

[anutz]

So all is well!


Put the new bearing in, i put it in the fridge first, and it went in easily with the old one to whack on, i did shave the old one off all round with a dremmel so no worries with it getting stuck....


Put the new chain on, and riveted it, fun...


End result no play in the back end any where....


But STILL got this slipping/spinning sensation, went to do some overtakes tonight off roundabouts onto A roads, and giving it gas it goes but then almost slips, so might be clutch...


which is fun as never messed with a clutch, and plan to do an oil/filter change soon....

[Dustydes]

What type of oil are you running, I found fully synthetic oil made my old 1989 FZR1000 clutch slip and had to change back to mineral oil.
Sure you will get a few reply's ref oil now.
Worth checking clutch plates first



Des

[anutz]

Hi Des,


Not sure as not done an oil change yet, but will happen next few nights as need to get the sump off to sort the water pump out!


Will be replacing with Semi 10W/40 Motul i think it is and a new filter...


Anutz

[Dustydes]

Yep

10/40 is the way to go, as for make that's a 10,000 post question :-)

[Fazerjon]

I always use silkolene 10W 40 semi with a filter from M&P around £30