Skipping or spinning...

[anutz]

i will be changing the lot anyway now i have the other issues, may as well give it a good doing over


did u look at the video, is that just normal or not?

[Fazerider]

That bearing is definitely knackered!

[Fazerjon]

You beat me to it, that bearing is totally f***ed!!

[anutz]

So i suspect i will be doing the following


New Front/Rear sprocket/chain
New Rear Bearings


The chain and sprockets i can change myself i have done that before


have never messed with drifting bearings out and seating new ones, is this best left to the local mechanics?


don't want to nacker the wheel

[robbo]

If you are confident doing the chain/sprockets, then you'll be fine replacing the bearings. Plenty on here will offer any advice that you'd need.

[unfazed]

Change that bearing, it's focced and change the seal also.  :eek
A chain and sprockets won't go astray either.

[unfazed]

Bearing is 60/28 C3 2RS

Seal is 35mm x 52mm x 8mm (unsprung)

The OEM Chain and Sprocket Kit part number is 5LV-W001A-01 and can be reasonably priced, the only down side is that the swinging arm has to come off to fit it as it is an endless chain.
However I find it worthwhile as it allows me inspect and grease linkage and swinging arm bearings at the same time.

! NOTE: If you do the bearing yourself be aware it has a circlip holding it in and is between the seal and the bearing !

[anutz]

Thanks Unfazed, have a full bearing set on the way with seals etc, and reading up now on whats involved, looks fine as long as i get the thing in straight!

[sadlonelygit]

Just seen the video. Oh dear.
I would be looking at suspension  bearings/bushings as well as i'm guessing that bike hasn't seen much tlc.

[anutz]

Once i have the front sprocket off ( which is proving a challenge ) i will then get the swingarm off and the rear shock will get a good going over, its actually really handling well - so not going to change the shock right now, but the whole rear end needs TLC.


Its like my FZS600 all over again, but its fun!

[unfazed]

Don't break it  :lol :lol

[anutz]

so far so good!


Got the sprocket off with lots of heat and plus gas, so what can go wrong eh?


not going near any exhaust studs.....till Christmas... :evil

[anutz]

Update...


Chain/Sprockets etc all off, have had a look at the swingarm...


It has tiny movement up and down, just like my 600cc, and this is normal, but it does have a little left and right movement, not normal compared to my FZs600....


So assuming the bearings in here also may need replacing...any other signs to look out for, currently removing swing arm....


:b

[anutz]

Update...


Chain/Sprockets etc all off, have had a look at the swingarm...


It has tiny movement up and down, just like my 600cc, and this is normal, but it does have a little left and right movement, not normal compared to my FZs600....


So assuming the bearings in here also may need replacing...any other signs to look out for, currently removing swing arm....


:b

Looking at the manual, it does allow for 1mm of side play at the end of the swingarm, will whip mine out and check the bearings and re-grease any way, decide what they are like then, or may just replace them whilst its all in bits, have the rear wheel bearings to do anyway...

[Dave48]

Since you have the rear end stripped out it makes sense to check ALL the bearings & seals-swingarm/suspension linkage/wheel bearings/cush drive rubbers.
Yamaha were never generous with grease in these bearings & being "out of sight" & "in the line of fire" from road shit/wet/salt etc tend to be overlooked until bike develop symptoms like you describe. When you are putting nigh on 140bhp through drivetrain onto road you need to make sure there is no excess play/wear & that caged rollers are free to do their job. Eventually you may want to replace rear shock as at 13 years old it will be well past its best.
The FZS 1000 is an amazing bike-wish i still had mine!

[Fazerjon]

So i suspect i will be doing the following


New Front/Rear sprocket/chain
New Rear Bearings


The chain and sprockets i can change myself i have done that before


have never messed with drifting bearings out and seating new ones, is this best left to the local mechanics?


don't want to nacker the wheel

If you're replacing the wheel bearings while its all out, take your time drifting the old bearings out, try and drift it out evenly all the way round. Once the first one is out its much easier to access the next one. When you put the new ones in, I always use the old bearing on top of the new one to tap it virtually all the way home, just make sure you don't tap the new one in too far so you can't get it back out! Good luck.

[anutz]

Thanks for the input Fazerjon....


I am going to get a pic of all the bits i have in order in the wheel...


The bearing i am replacing is on the disc side, i am not sure i will so the others, as they have no play, and are no grinding or crunching...


Access should be ok with a long drift, i can remove all the spacers easily any way to get access....will get a pic


Was a pain to get the oil seal out, rusted in, and now i need some circlip pliers so off to a shop...

[Dustydes]

Soak circlip in wd40 they can stick/rust in and be a pain to get out. If really bad you can heat up centre with a small blow torch they then fold in half and come out, but you will need new after.
I know its more expense but its worth replacing both bearings while your at it, they have all done the same mileage and its job done for a good few years.

good luck

Des 

[anutz]

Soak circlip in wd40 they can stick/rust in and be a pain to get out. If really bad you can heat up centre with a small blow torch they then fold in half and come out, but you will need new after.
I know its more expense but its worth replacing both bearings while your at it, they have all done the same mileage and its job done for a good few years.

good luck

Des

I have a set on the way with 3 bearings i.e. 2 for the wheel and one for the sprocket carrier, as well as seals...


I shall read up on the other 2, the one i think may be tricky is the inner rear wheel one behind the sprocket carrier, i can see how to get the one by the disc, the one that is certainly knackered, and the one in the sprocket carrier is not hard, its the spindled one that i am trying to figure out...

[anutz]

Oil/Dust seal removed, this is the main bearing i wanted to replace, as the video shows its buggered.





with spacers removed i have good access from the back of it





Said spacers...





And the other near side bearing, which is ok but may replace, just cannot see much of a lip on it to be able to whack it out from the other side...